Today I was driving to work and the gears ground going into 4th. This is not the first time this has happened to me with this car. I know for a fact my foot was on the floor and the clutch pedal could not have been pushed any further in and when I went to move the gear change to 4th I felt resistance and painful grinding sound ensued. The car has acted this way before, clutch to the floor and grinding in gears 1-4. It seems to mostly do it on a cold start, the temp was about 55-60 deg F when it did it today. What the hell is going on? Is there something out of adjustment or what?
Jetta Sport that grinds gears
THEunderACH1EVER
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Today I was driving to work and the gears ground going into 4th. This is not the first time this has happened to me with this car. I know for a fact my foot was on the floor and the clutch pedal could not have been pushed any further in and when I went to move the gear change to 4th I felt resistance and painful grinding sound ensued. The car has acted this way before, clutch to the floor and grinding in gears 1-4. It seems to mostly do it on a cold start, the temp was about 55-60 deg F when it did it today. What the hell is going on? Is there something out of adjustment or what?
MT-90
being new there should be no issues but it happens! on my MK IV the O2J 5 spd known for poor syncro never shifted well + got worse with more mileage + by 95,000 i could barely get into 5th. bertolett VW refused my 100,000 drivetrain warranty when after they were going to swap in another tranny i told them i had a Quaife LSD installed, a $1500 investment! i changed the tranny-transaxle lube to Redline MT-90 + it was better immediately + continued to improve until i ripped the teeth off 5th gear at 150,000 miles!!! put MT-90 in my recently purchased 01 TT 6 speed + it shifter better as well, good stuff for sure as all redline lubricants are real group V Ester based!!!
being new there should be no issues but it happens! on my MK IV the O2J 5 spd known for poor syncro never shifted well + got worse with more mileage + by 95,000 i could barely get into 5th. bertolett VW refused my 100,000 drivetrain warranty when after they were going to swap in another tranny i told them i had a Quaife LSD installed, a $1500 investment! i changed the tranny-transaxle lube to Redline MT-90 + it was better immediately + continued to improve until i ripped the teeth off 5th gear at 150,000 miles!!! put MT-90 in my recently purchased 01 TT 6 speed + it shifter better as well, good stuff for sure as all redline lubricants are real group V Ester based!!!
That's happened to me once with the clutch fully engaged. If you continue having that issue frequently, I'd suggest you take it in. But when I had the dealer check and advise they said they couldn't replicate anything and couldn't do anything about it.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Bring it to the dealer.
Even if they cant replicate it you will have a paper trail/receipt in case of future problem.
Even if they cant replicate it you will have a paper trail/receipt in case of future problem.
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I have a weird crunchy feeling when releasing the clutch, also reverse 8/10 times grinds going in and I will be at a complete stop when putting it in.
That is apparently normal according to Volkswagen of America. Guess who didn't put a syncro on reverse?
this is "fixable" buy shifting into 1st first, then putting into reverse.
reverse gear uses the first gear + syncro.
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Didn't know that. Do most manufacturers skimp on that?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
You know, I'm not actually sure. The two manual Audis I had before my Jetta both had syncros on reverse.
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549 Posts
Totally different car but my X has a Suzuki Forenza and that thing would grind into reverse all the time. If you shifted super slow then you would be fine, guess it has the same set up (no synchro).
The manual Dodge Dart also does not have a synchronized reverse.
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On a cold start it's 9/10 for me. Warm it's more like 5/10.
2014 SE. I've known about the going into 1st before reverse thing. Didn't think a new car would require it tho.
Econo life.
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Have a '16 Sport here, far and away the WORST MT vehicle I have ever driven. I have the random reverse grind that I can't seem to confidently replicate besides when sitting running at the car wash in neutral and running, horrible clutch shudder in the morning if I don't baby it, completely non-linear and inconsistent clutch engagement beyond that, and worsening notchy shifting with a really nice 1st to 2nd grind, especially when cold.
I want to take it in to the dealer to be inspected, but everything seems to be blamed on the customer these days :/
I want to take it in to the dealer to be inspected, but everything seems to be blamed on the customer these days :/
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Actually most cars do NOT have syncros in reverse. It is very common. The best practice is to always go into 1st and then go into reverse. This is a technique I learned many years ago and it still serves well today. When you are idling in neutral and put your foot on the clutch and then go quickly right into reverse the input shaft of the transmission is still spinning down and with no syncro you'll grind momentarily. You can either wait a second or two after pushing in the clutch before going to reverse or put the clutch in, go quickly into 1st before going into reverse. This will stop the input shaft from spinning using the 1st gear syncro. Then you can go nice and easy into reverse. It also works on cars that are sometimes quirky going all the way into reverse. The gears don't always line up exactly and it won't go completely into reverse. The trick there is to go back to neutral, let the clutch out to spin the input shaft of the trans, push the clutch back in, go into first, and then to reverse again. Once you are in the habit of "1st-Reverse" it's really no trouble at all and I have taught all my daughters the technique. Yes, I force them all to learn and drive sticks. At first they don't like me but then they're pretty happy to know since nowadays you can get manual transmission cars for far less than automatics because nobody knows how to drive them!
If a transmission is having issues going into ALL gears then you'll want to take a look at clutch adjustment to make sure the clutch is releasing completely. On hydraulic clutch acutators you can get air in the system which will prevent the clutch from disengaging completely, causing grinding in all the gears because the input shaft of the trans is still being driven by the engine somewhat. On cable clutch actuators it's the same but you will want to check the cable adjustment.
If a transmission is having issues going into ALL gears then you'll want to take a look at clutch adjustment to make sure the clutch is releasing completely. On hydraulic clutch acutators you can get air in the system which will prevent the clutch from disengaging completely, causing grinding in all the gears because the input shaft of the trans is still being driven by the engine somewhat. On cable clutch actuators it's the same but you will want to check the cable adjustment.
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Mine is currently sitting at the dealer for service, just got the call, "can't replicate" 
story of my life.
Also, had to have a buddy of mine help me drop it off, the cold shudder is so bad he stalled it twice before we got out of the parking lot.
story of my life.Also, had to have a buddy of mine help me drop it off, the cold shudder is so bad he stalled it twice before we got out of the parking lot.
The important thing is to bring it in under warranty - If they can't replicate it, at least it's documented. No guarantee that they would honor the repair after your warranty expires, but at least you can attempt to make a case to VWoA that the dealer wouldn't listen to you the first time.
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