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danski0224

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So, I ran down my OE battery over the winter, got it jumped, and decided to replace it with an AGM at a later date as long as there weren't any immediate issues.

Shouldn't have been a big deal. No issues since the run-down and jump with one of those battery jump packs. Just didn't have long term faith in the OEM battery after the incident.

Had the battery on hand, decided to do it today.

Now, I have no "Front Assist" and consequently, no cruise control.

There was also an ESC warning and a TPMS warning, but those self-cleared.

Any idea on what gives with the Front Assist? Will this "self-clear"?

Of course, the car is no longer within the warranty period.

Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hmmm, "all fixed"

The second time I started the car, the problem "went away".

Because the 12 V "outlets" are all controlled by the computer, I didn't want to turn the ignition "on" and then use a memory saver. I certainly didn't want to experiment on my car :)

I have one of those battery jump packs, and the thought of connecting it to the battery cables before disconnecting the cables from the battery did occur to me, but then visions of arcs and sparks crossed my mind. The idea of working with a jump pack and lithium batteries and exposed alligator clamps in a small space was not appealing.

How does a shop deal with this issue?
 
Here's what happened. You put in a different battery and it wasn't coded. Thus takes a bit of time for the car to figure it out (this has been going on for a long time). Most of the time you just change one digit on the coding and it takes care of itself. Watch this and you'll see what I'm talking about:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
You have got to be kidding me.

The battery needs to be coded? WTF!

Sooo, I wonder if there are any pitfalls to not coding it? The one I bought is aftermarket, and there are no stickers with these values.
 
You have got to be kidding me.

The battery needs to be coded? WTF!

Sooo, I wonder if there are any pitfalls to not coding it? The one I bought is aftermarket, and there are no stickers with these values.
Yes, you must buy the proper battery from VW because all other batteries are no good and incompatible. If you read my post under the oil additives I tell how manufacturers spec out things unnecessarily just so the supplier makes up the profit lost in supplying the product long term.

With that being said, if you just do a search of "VW Battery Coding" or "BEM Code" you'll find lots of posts from VAG owners over the years on what they have done (because you know all of them ain't buying a VW battery).

I've been waiting for this to rear it's ugly head on this forum and it finally showed up. Most will forget about it until 5-6 years down the road when they need a new battery and will be shocked to find out that the dealer will tell you that you must have the proper battery. Thank goodness for VCDS because we know the workaround I suspect many VW owners will just buy the VW battery (which is probably a Varta). What I have found out is just changing one digit on the coding and the car thinks it has a new battery or you just find a pic of a BEM code online and use it (there are ones out there of the same for your car). I also have found that most VAG products operate just fine. If I were you, I'd just drive it and see what happens. I suspect you'll be fine. If not, you know the workaround.
 
Yes, you must buy the proper battery from VW because all other batteries are no good and incompatible. If you read my post under the oil additives I tell how manufacturers spec out things unnecessarily just so the supplier makes up the profit lost in supplying the product long term.

With that being said, if you just do a search of "VW Battery Coding" or "BEM Code" you'll find lots of posts from VAG owners over the years on what they have done (because you know all of them ain't buying a VW battery).

I've been waiting for this to rear it's ugly head on this forum and it finally showed up. Most will forget about it until 5-6 years down the road when they need a new battery and will be shocked to find out that the dealer will tell you that you must have the proper battery. Thank goodness for VCDS because we know the workaround I suspect many VW owners will just buy the VW battery (which is probably a Varta). What I have found out is just changing one digit on the coding and the car thinks it has a new battery or you just find a pic of a BEM code online and use it (there are ones out there of the same for your car). I also have found that most VAG products operate just fine. If I were you, I'd just drive it and see what happens. I suspect you'll be fine. If not, you know the workaround.
You are wrong, wrong wrong! The owner can use any battery they wish with no issue and coding is not required. The internet is not doing you any favors......
 
I'm having a similar issue but in my case I didn't replace the battery. I just disconnected it so I could run a power cable to an amplifier. Once I was done with the subwoofer installation I reconnected the battery terminal and I got all the errors. TPMS and ESP went away but not ACC and Front Assist not Available.

I did a really clean job, no shorting out wires or tapping on the wrong wires.

Just got power directly from the battery to run a digital amplifier which I grounded to the chassis. The input signal to the amp were taken from the rear speakers. The remote turn on lead was tapped into an empty fuse slot with a single space connector which didn't complete the circuit in the fuse box. Just received power when the car is switched on or running.

I'm dumbfounded that may disconnecting a car battery and reconnecting the same battery can wreck havoc. I find it ridiculous.
 
This morning I took my AT and disconnected the battery and let it sit for a few hours. Hooked it back up and when I started it, 6 errors came up (tire pressure, ACC, park assist and 3 others I can't remember). So, backed out of the garage and drove 0.3 miles around the block and pulled it back in the garage. No errors showed up in the infotainment but the no ACC light on in the instrument cluster. I turned the engine off and restarted it 5 seconds later. The ACC warning in the cluster is now gone. Then used my VCDS and about 10 different codes came up but all were self cleared because those modules needed the car to be moving and operating to do their self test (if you have a VCDS you will know what I'm talking about).

For anyone that is worried, this is what happens on a 2017 AT with SEL, DSG and that lighting/DAP package. You might have a different experience due to you having a different model but in the end, I don't really see that those errors were a deal breaker for me when in 0.3 miles along a stop/start of the engine clears the codes you see. Also, my trip odometer went back to zero.
 
This morning I took my AT and disconnected the battery and let it sit for a few hours. Hooked it back up and when I started it, 6 errors came up (tire pressure, ACC, park assist and 3 others I can't remember). So, backed out of the garage and drove 0.3 miles around the block and pulled it back in the garage. No errors showed up in the infotainment but the no ACC light on in the instrument cluster. I turned the engine off and restarted it 5 seconds later. The ACC warning in the cluster is now gone. Then used my VCDS and about 10 different codes came up but all were self cleared because those modules needed the car to be moving and operating to do their self test (if you have a VCDS you will know what I'm talking about).

For anyone that is worried, this is what happens on a 2017 AT with SEL, DSG and that lighting/DAP package. You might have a different experience due to you having a different model but in the end, I don't really see that those errors were a deal breaker for me when in 0.3 miles along a stop/start of the engine clears the codes you see. Also, my trip odometer went back to zero.
I been searching for the cause or I should say the cure. I did the same thing (disconnected battery for maybe 1 hour) I to change steering wheel. I too have a 2017 AT SEL with the same option package as you. I had all those warning lights come on too and when I started car and backed out of driveway then put in D all the lights went out except ACC warning and EPC. I pulled over after a few blocks and scrolled tru settings on my infotainment and couldn't clear/set anything TPM and the like.I drove about 2 mi to store when inside drove back home but stopped on my way checked settings TPM again and was able to set TPM this time...and ACC warning light and EPC is still on when I shut car off. The car has been sitting overnight. I haven't driven it again but I did turn ignition on (push button start didn't start car) and the lights are still on EPC & ACC. I've been stressed about this since and have spent all day searching and searching. Any suggestions? Did you have the EPC Light too? I've read the lights go out after driving (for an undetermined amount of time) and have also read I need to take in to a shop ASAP for the EPC. I know there's nothing broken that needs to be replaced it's all computer related the car was perfect until I disconnected battery. It didn't seem to be lacking power but I'm not a lead foot and only got up to about 40mph. I'm just worried about driving and having it crap out somewhere. I can't even get into a shop until after the new year.
 
This morning I took my AT and disconnected the battery and let it sit for a few hours. Hooked it back up and when I started it, 6 errors came up (tire pressure, ACC, park assist and 3 others I can't remember). So, backed out of the garage and drove 0.3 miles around the block and pulled it back in the garage. No errors showed up in the infotainment but the no ACC light on in the instrument cluster. I turned the engine off and restarted it 5 seconds later. The ACC warning in the cluster is now gone. Then used my VCDS and about 10 different codes came up but all were self cleared because those modules needed the car to be moving and operating to do their self test (if you have a VCDS you will know what I'm talking about).

For anyone that is worried, this is what happens on a 2017 AT with SEL, DSG and that lighting/DAP package. You might have a different experience due to you having a different model but in the end, I don't really see that those errors were a deal breaker for me when in 0.3 miles along a stop/start of the engine clears the codes you see. Also, my trip odometer went back to zero.
I been searching for the cause or I should say the cure. I did the same thing (disconnected battery for maybe 1 hour) I to change steering wheel. I too have a 2017 AT SEL with the same option package as you. I had all those warning lights come on too and when I started car and backed out of driveway then put in D all the lights went out except ACC warning and EPC. I pulled over after a few blocks and scrolled tru settings on my infotainment and couldn't access anything TPM and the like.I drove about 2 mi to store when inside drove back home but stopped on my way checked settings TPM again and was able to set TPM this time...and ACC warning light and EPC is still on when I shut car off. The car has been sitting overnight. I haven't driven it again but I did turn ignition on (push button start didn't start car) and the lights are still on EPC & ACC. I've been stressed about this since and have spent all day searching and searching. Any suggestions? Did you have the EPC Light too? I've read the lights go out after driving (for an undetermined amount of time) and have also read I need to take in to a shop ASAP. I know there's nothing broken that needs to be replaced it's all computer related the car was perfect until I disconnected battery. It didn't seem to be lacking power but I'm not a lead foot and only got up to about 40mph. I'm just worried about driving and having it crap out somewhere. I can't even get into a shop until after the new year.
 
I been searching for the cause or I should say the cure. I did the same thing (disconnected battery for maybe 1 hour) I to change steering wheel. I too have a 2017 AT SEL with the same option package as you. I had all those warning lights come on too and when I started car and backed out of driveway then put in D all the lights went out except ACC warning and EPC. I pulled over after a few blocks and scrolled tru settings on my infotainment and couldn't access anything TPM and the like.I drove about 2 mi to store when inside drove back home but stopped on my way checked settings TPM again and was able to set TPM this time...and ACC warning light and EPC is still on when I shut car off. The car has been sitting overnight. I haven't driven it again but I did turn ignition on (push button start didn't start car) and the lights are still on EPC & ACC. I've been stressed about this since and have spent all day searching and searching. Any suggestions? Did you have the EPC Light too? I've read the lights go out after driving (for an undetermined amount of time) and have also read I need to take in to a shop ASAP. I know there's nothing broken that needs to be replaced it's all computer related the car was perfect until I disconnected battery. It didn't seem to be lacking power but I'm not a lead foot and only got up to about 40mph. I'm just worried about driving and having it crap out somewhere. I can't even get into a shop until after the new year.
Did you ever get a resolution on this? I am in the exact same situation.
 
When you change/disconnect the battery you will have the dash light up....just drive it and they clear out once you hit ~10mph. You can also scan for codes/clear codes if things aren't going away.
 
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Yes, you must buy the proper battery from VW because all other batteries are no good and incompatible. If you read my post under the oil additives I tell how manufacturers spec out things unnecessarily just so the supplier makes up the profit lost in supplying the product long term.

With that being said, if you just do a search of "VW Battery Coding" or "BEM Code" you'll find lots of posts from VAG owners over the years on what they have done (because you know all of them ain't buying a VW battery).

I've been waiting for this to rear it's ugly head on this forum and it finally showed up. Most will forget about it until 5-6 years down the road when they need a new battery and will be shocked to find out that the dealer will tell you that you must have the proper battery. Thank goodness for VCDS because we know the workaround I suspect many VW owners will just buy the VW battery (which is probably a Varta). What I have found out is just changing one digit on the coding and the car thinks it has a new battery or you just find a pic of a BEM code online and use it (there are ones out there of the same for your car). I also have found that most VAG products operate just fine. If I were you, I'd just drive it and see what happens. I suspect you'll be fine. If not, you know the workaround.
There is nothing special about the VW battery vs. the Interstate one from Costco or any other H5/H6 battery you can buy an auto parts store. H6 AGM is the way to go. The coding folks talk about shouldn't be necessary on the MK7s but you can certainly make the changes - I did/here is what I used for my new battery:

Image
 
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