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So I bought a porsche

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Discussion starter · #221 ·
Air and water do mix said:
Hmmmm. Are you running a 180 or 200mm clutch on that car? I know they had both and if I remember it right they were diaphragm pressure plates, correct?
Click to expand...
Yeah it's a 180 mm clutch. Although I don't believe I have the diaphram pressure plate, some cars did, mainly the Carreras/race cars AFAIK.
 
#222 ·
duke of chucchinchilla said:
Yeah it's a 180 mm clutch. Although I don't believe I have the diaphram pressure plate, some cars did, mainly the Carreras/race cars AFAIK.
Click to expand...
Really? Hmmm, I've been trying to find a 200mm 6-volt flywheel ('66 Microbus only!) for my other engine, but if I can't perhaps I can live with a 180. I should have similar power and a bit less weight, so perhaps it will do.

What do the outlaw guys do for theirs, any idea?
 
Discussion starter · #223 ·
Update:

Coming up on 8 years ownership next week and thought I'd give an update. The biggest update is that I've moved back to California and so the Porsche will follow in a month or two after I get some work done in Dallas. Basically I'm getting a grocery list of things done there because I know the shops better and of course labor rates are cheaper. Mechanically speaking I got new rear wheel bearings, new rear drum shoes, seals/ancillary parts, voltage regulator adjusted, front joints tightened/lubed, torsion bar bushings replaced, and a few other odds and ends. Cosmetically...

I had this which was driving me nuts
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So off to the body shop to see what's underneath. What I thought was rust was actually moisture coming through the bondo that was underneath.
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And the whole thing. When you rub your hand over the metal (using a paper towel in order to avoid contaminating the steel), you can feel all these ripply areas on the front lip meaning the metal has been worked at some point. Not serious, but my guess is it was tapped in a parking lot or something. Also if you look to the left you see what looks like a big silvery patch. That's lead meaning it likely happened sometime in the 60's or 70's as lead repairs were gone by the 80's. While we haven't agreed on a game plan yet my guess is we'll end up replacing the ripply metal along the lip with something fresh and perhaps do something similar with the lead patch. Time will tell.
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And finally here's the rest of the car as it sits.
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#224 · (Edited)
Thank you for taking good care of my favorite car in the freakin' world. :beer:

Seriously I love the late 356 with drum brakes best. Sure, the disk brake cars are nice too and I wouldn't kick an 'A' or pre 'A' out of bed, but ones like yours are my absolute favorites. Yes, the Carerra 2 is über cool, but it's not even a legit pipe dream even if I had the $, since I don't have the knowledge to keep it in tune. A pushrod 'B' with drums is just the sweet spot. For me.


How much is going to be painted? Just the hood? Will you paint the nose and blend it into the fenders?

Edit: I looked back at the thread and answered my own question, so I removed it. :)


Now go take your perfect car back to the perfect weather state and enjoy. :beer: You bastard. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #225 ·
Thanks for the complements. :cool:
One thing about the brakes, I have drums on the rear and discs on the front. When I bought the car the front drums were shot and "new" ones (used ones) were four digits in price so I opted for a bolt on disc kit that allows you to run the drum wheels and can easily be reversed in a day if one wanted. Discs on the front, drums on the rear. The hood is going to be mended, painted, then blended to the nose of the car. Some day I'll do a full strip down of the car like MarioJ's car but until then it's piece by piece because once the metalwork is done, it'll be good for another 50 years. It's like restoring an old house...slowly.
 
#226 ·
Yeah, I went through and re-read the disk brake bit, as it had been so long I had forgotten that. Do you know who's kit it is? I ask because it's probably interchangeable with disk brake kits for a link pin Beetle, as the regular Porsche brakes are a bolt-on upgrade for all standard Beetles. I wouldn't mind a disk brake kit instead of running my Porsche drums (if I sold them they'd easily pay for the kit!) but I insist on quality components well matched to what I'm modifying. I don't make willy-nilly modifications at this point! Also, what did you think of the stopping power? The same? Better? If they're better than Porsche drums that's saying something, as those were just about the best in the world at the time, which is why they took so long to adapt to disk brakes.

That's the way I'd do the paint/hood in your shoes. Prep it one piece at a time to keep it from degrading and have a damn nice car to drive before the full resto. :thumbup:
 
Discussion starter · #227 · (Edited)
Air and water do mix said:
Yeah, I went through and re-read the disk brake bit, as it had been so long I had forgotten that. Do you know who's kit it is? I ask because it's probably interchangeable with disk brake kits for a link pin Beetle, as the regular Porsche brakes are a bolt-on upgrade for all standard Beetles. I wouldn't mind a disk brake kit instead of running my Porsche drums (if I sold them they'd easily pay for the kit!) but I insist on quality components well matched to what I'm modifying. I don't make willy-nilly modifications at this point! Also, what did you think of the stopping power? The same? Better? If they're better than Porsche drums that's saying something, as those were just about the best in the world at the time, which is why they took so long to adapt to disk brakes.

That's the way I'd do the paint/hood in your shoes. Prep it one piece at a time to keep it from degrading and have a damn nice car to drive before the full resto. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Sorry for delay, just saw this. Here's the kit I got, it was $800 which was a no brainer considering used ass drums to replace my worn out used ass drums was a four digit figure. Note it's only for the fronts but that's where the majority of your braking is anyway. Stopping power is very good and very consistent....actually I have more concerns with tire grip than brake power.

https://www.allzim.com/store/356-front-drum-to-disc-brake-conversion-kit-58-63.html?category_id=991
^Not most exciting website in the world but the shop is very reputable and is where I also got my car serviced. Very trustworthy.


UPDATE: Hood job hit a somewhat predictable snag. They stripped the paint off the underside of the hood and found the support brace had turned to swiss cheese thanks to water sitting inside those hollow cavities between the brace and the hood itself. The problem was fixed in the 80's with our good friend Mr. Bondo. Next step is to uncrimp the hood, cut out the bottom 1/3 of the support brace which will allow them to also re-roll and hammer the sheet metal which needed to be done anyway, weld on the new brace section, crimp hood over brace, finish up metal work, start the paint process. I'm hoping to get the car back in maybe April but then again I have to ship it now instead of just driving it home.

Here's what I'm talking about. The rusted section closest to the camera is the bottom of the hood down by the bumper and as you can see, it don't take too kindly to stagnant water sitting inside there.
Image



Oh and here's a pic I took right before driving the Porsche to the shop back on 12/11. House is now empty getting prepped for rental, Audi is out here in CA. My how things have changed.
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Discussion starter · #228 · (Edited)
UPDATE: Car is done and now in California! Yes the progress was longer and more labor intensive than I originally expected but hey, do it once and do it right. In addition to knowing the metal underneath is now perfect, I have a better fitting hood to look at and a fresh face that presents way better. I also had the shop go over the entire body of the car so everything looks fresh. Honestly this is the best the car has ever looked under my tenure.

Pics taken yesterday up in Sonoma..

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Upcoming projects:
-Needs tires, will buy Pirelli Cintrato Classics
-Shocks
-Right door doesn't shut properly, need adjustment
-Tach cable is about to go, it's making noises and the needle is jumping around a bit
-Gear shift guide pin is worn or popping out
 
#229 ·
chucchinchilla said:
UPDATE: Car is done and now in California! Yes the progress was longer and more labor intensive than I originally expected but hey, do it once and do it right. In addition to knowing the metal underneath is now perfect, I have a better fitting hood to look at and a fresh face that presents way better. I also had the shop go over the entire body of the car so everything looks fresh. Honestly this is the best the car has ever looked under my tenure.

Pics taken yesterday up in Sonoma..

Image


Image


Image


Upcoming projects:
-Needs tires, will buy Pirelli Cintrato Classics
-Shocks
-Right door doesn't shut properly, need adjustment
-Tach cable is about to go, it's making noises and the needle is jumping around a bit
-Gear shift guide pin is worn or popping out
Click to expand...
I'm quoting the whole post because its worth it to see it twice. Looking good! You've got to be thrilled. Planning on any trips soon?

Chris
 
#230 ·
If your tach is about ready to crap-out...might want to look into a full flow oil filter system.
I got one for mine and now need to get an electric tachometer, because it mounts where the mechanical tach drive is.

I kept my stock oil filter too so it looks 'right' from the engine bay :thumbup:

https://precisionmatters.biz/full-flow-oil-filter-pressure-relief.php
 
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#231 ·
JMURiz said:
If your tach is about ready to crap-out...might want to look into a full flow oil filter system.
I got one for mine and now need to get an electric tachometer, because it mounts where the mechanical tach drive is.

I kept my stock oil filter too so it looks 'right' from the engine bay :thumbup:

https://precisionmatters.biz/full-flow-oil-filter-pressure-relief.php
Click to expand...
I just checked out their site. They now have a full flow setup for the European heaters that can accommodate the mechanical tach.

https://precisionmatters.biz/full-flow-oil-filter-euro.php

It could save $ if he wanted to go that route. :thumbup:


Chu, now that you have that hood taken care of I’m even more jealous! :laugh: :beer:
 
#232 ·
Son of a biscuit...one of the mods I actually got around to doing and now there’s a money saving version :banghead:
 
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Discussion starter · #235 ·
Thanks for the comments guys. Very happy to have it back. The tach cable option sounds interesting, but then again a new tach cable is $35 and is pretty easily replaced...will look into it thought. Plan for the car is to drive it as much as possible on the kinds of roads it was built for. I ran into another challenge on Sunday. While listing off what the car needed I was reminded by my wife that our family has grown since the car went in the shop a year ago and we'll have to budget accordingly. Of course by that I mean we now own a VW Bus which requires a lot of $$ to get sorted. Hopefully that doesn't put too much of a damper on a few simple maintenance jobs. :laugh:
 
Discussion starter · #237 ·
Sold Over Sticker said:
You’ll have to join us for a lunch run some weekend soon. I’d love to drool over that in person. It’s looking fantastic!
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Would love to once I get a couple items sorted, just need some advance notice. The car is being stored in Sonoma until we once again live in a place with a garage so I'll need some time to fetch the car.
 
Discussion starter · #238 · (Edited)
Another Update: I called my insurance company today to change addresses and remembering my conversations with them in the past (mentioned itt) I asked them to check the latest values of the car and once again I had to up the value. As Kai Ryssdal says, let's do the numbers...

2010: Bought for $27K, fixed it up and insured for $40K
2012: Upped to $45K
2013: Upped to $70K
2016: Upped to $92K
2017: Upped to $98K
Today: Upped to $120,400

According to the Hagerty tool, prices bumped up in September so according to their scale (and separated by condition)

#1 - $138K
#2 - $99K
#3 - $70K
#4 - $48K

..although I don't have Hagerty, I feel my insurance company's valuation seems fair. I honestly never thought this would be a six figure car and it doesn't matter as I have no intention to sell but hey, nice to know.
 
Discussion starter · #240 ·
Took the car out the other weekend and had a blast driving through the mountains of wine country. For the first time since buying the car I felt like it was finally driving the roads it was meant to drive and it was insanely fun. Unfortunately on the return trip the left rear wheel started making a warbling sound which suggest a bad wheel bearing...unfortunate since I just had that changed......a year ago before the car sat in a shop for a year while the hood was getting redone. Oh well.

Upcoming projects:
-Change oil
-Fix wheel bearing noise
-New tires
-New front pads..anything that sheds less dust

Long term projects:
-Shocks
-Redo front seats

Pic @ Deerfield Winery after fun drive, note amount of brake dust on front...wheels were clean prior to drive.

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Air and water do mix
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