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TheFreeMan

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
[Solved] Central locking issue

I've got an '05 MkV 5MT and the central locking works reliably on all doors but the driver's. The drivers is intermittent - sometimes it will work on the first press of the remote, sometimes it takes several presses, sometimes it takes putting the key in the door & turning... I've got these OBD codes, can anyone recommend the most likely culprit to replace?

Body/convenience system:
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Rear Right (F223)
00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Rear Left (F222)
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
01331 - Door Control Module: Driver Side (J386)
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)

Driver's door:
01552 - Ctrl.lock. motor, drivers door (V56), LOCK
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Driver Side (F220)
00109 - Lamp for mirror turn signal driver's side (L131)

Immobilizer:
01176 - Key Faulty

Despite it reporting the 00930 and 00931, there have been no known issues with the rear doors locking/unlocking.
I just noticed the 1176 code - I can't imagine that the key's at fault - if the car reliably responds to button presses for 3 of the 4 doors, I wouldn't think it's the keys fault.
 
Take a look at the drivers door lock module, may be able to free it up or it needs replacing. Since this is an early Jetta also take a look at the wiring harness inside the rubber boot at the door jamb for issues.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks.

Any tips (or links to threads with tips) on removing the door cards? Interior panel work is one of my least favorite. I've done it, but... :(

If a replacement is necessary, does this part cover the necessary OEM part numbers? It says it's for an A4 body, and RockAuto lists locks for A5 bodies as well, but I'm not sure where to go to determine the body ID number.

Also, you indicate that I may be able to free it up, what kind of prying, jimmying or lubricating might it take?
 
There are more than a few Videos & DIY just need to search, you will not be removing the inner door trim panel but the outer door skin to access the door lock module. When removing the hardware for skin keep track of where they come from as you will have three different sizes and if you put them in the wrong location on reinstall you will create damage.

The part number you are looking for is 3B1837015AT for a driver door lock module MK5/A5 Jetta please confirm with dealer as you have an early MK5.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Outer door skin? Yikes!! I'm glad I asked. Doesn't sound that bad, but it'll be something new for me.

Thanks again for the info. Thanks, too for the part number. Of course, that's the most expensive one they offer, but that's cheaper than having the car stolen...

Found a nice tutorial at DAP. Eh... not so bad. Looks like it's more fiddly work than difficult work. With instructions, I'm confident enough in my wrenching ability that I'm sure I can get 'er done. Without instructions, I just don't know where to begin (as was evidenced by my expectation of getting to this from the inside, not the outside). Their part is also OEM and cheaper than at RA. Ordered.
 
i got good results with this issue by just being inside the car, locking the doors, and spraying lubricant or wd40 ~slowly~ onto each lock button (the ones that pop up & down) so that the oil pools and goes down and inside the door at the
button shaft.
 
i got good results with this issue by just being inside the car, locking the doors, and spraying lubricant or wd40 ~slowly~ onto each lock button (the ones that pop up & down) so that the oil pools and goes down and inside the door at the
button shaft.
The MkV does not have a lock button, only a electric switch to lock/unlock inside the car.
 
Outer door skin? Yikes!! I'm glad I asked. Doesn't sound that bad, but it'll be something new for me.

Thanks again for the info. Thanks, too for the part number. Of course, that's the most expensive one they offer, but that's cheaper than having the car stolen...

Found a nice tutorial at DAP. Eh... not so bad. Looks like it's more fiddly work than difficult work. With instructions, I'm confident enough in my wrenching ability that I'm sure I can get 'er done. Without instructions, I just don't know where to begin (as was evidenced by my expectation of getting to this from the inside, not the outside). Their part is also OEM and cheaper than at RA. Ordered.
Yep that DAP price is a really good for a dealer part.

This is also a good DIY by HM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuOJhZaGwnw
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yep that DAP price is a really good for a dealer part.

This is also a good DIY by HM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuOJhZaGwnw
Thanks for the info, GTI's! Just wrapped up the job. It's my son's car and the 2 of us did it in under 2 hours. I printed the directions from [url="https://www.shopdap.com/blog/how-to-diagnosis-and-repair-of-your-front-drivers-door-latch-assembly-diy-inside.html/]DAP[/url] and they were really pretty good. Clear pics with arrows helping to show direction of movement.

The hardest part of getting it off was getting the lock assembly off the door itself. The "claw" as they described it is just a hook of metal that goes into a slot in the lock mechanism. Once I had it off and could see what I was up against, it was pretty evident how it should have come off. The other hard part was getting the inside release cable pried out of the housing. A screwdriver, some tugging and grunting and it came out without anything breaking.

It took a minor fiddle to get the door handle in, and it took a bit more fiddling to get the lock cylinder back in. After pushing & prodding and not getting it to go in, I pulled it, adjusted the door bow by moving the handle until it lined up perfectly with the door skin, then with a slight wiggle, the cylinder went right in.

The hardest part was that we didn't carefully count screws as we took them out, I just trusted/assumed that they would all be as supplied, OEM. When we went to put them back in, we discovered that we were missing 2 of the #2 screws (as identified in the DAP instructions) to go along the bottom of the door. We got all the correct ones in the sides with no problems. We had one #3 and one #4 screw left. They both fit the holes at the bottom of the door, so we put them in, tightened them down and closed the door really gently. Despite their thicker washers, they didn't fowl the side skirt, so we went with it. Knowing there was absolutely nothing in the bottom of the door for the slightly longer screw to run into, I'm not worried about it.


I'm pretty sure that someone has had the door skin off before, possibly more than one at a time, and they threw all the screws in a big batch and weren't really careful about where they put them back. I know that at the very least, the speakers were replaced (found the remains of the drilled out rivets in the door), so that's probably when it happened.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
:thumbup:

Like you said someone has bee in there before, did you look at the HM video he shows you what bolts go where.
I did not watch the video. I felt pretty comfortable with DAP's write up and their description of what bolts went where. When we realized something was off, we pulled all the bolts out 1 by 1 to look at them. It wasn't that we got some in the wrong place or some were missing, we simply didn't have enough of the bolts that were to go in the door bottom. I'd guess that a previous owner/shop had pulled more than one door skin at once and got the bolts back in the wrong place. If I'm ever really motivated, I'll go look at the bolts on the other doors and see if there are a couple of wrong ones in wrong places and swap 'em back to their right places.

I'd have to be really, really motivated, though...
 
This is common. All of my door skins have been off for work at shop and when I go to work on them it’s always a mixed bag. Some screws missing, others I have too many of or just short in amount. As long as the skin goes on and stays on 😐
 
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