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Running 20W-50 in the winter????

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G60 CAB

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have talked around about getting the lifters to stock ticking without having to replace them....and the consensus is to just put in 20W-50, which I run in the summer.
I just need to let the car run a couple minutes before driving when it gets cold, which I do even in the summer.
What do you guys think?
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#2 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (redvdubvert)

you could try a synth blend like 10W50 or something. the 10W/20W rating are for how cold it gets there. If its not too cold (look up the temp range of 20W) then just run 20W.
i ran 20W50 in the georgia winter it gets sub-freezing, i just paid attention to the startup procedure to get it warm fast enough without too much oil pressure.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (mrkrad)

Well in Ohio the temps get down to 0 maybe 5 times a year....I think. And it usually stays near freezing, sometimes it stays in the teens for a while. One of my friends who runs a parts shop said that VW recommends running 20W-50 to as low as 0 degrees F.
Will I have hard starts?
 
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#4 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (redvdubvert)

ever try pouring 20w50 in the winter? I tried...a little like honey. I wouldnt recommend it. Redline's website says not to use it in temps lower than 10deg. look for 15w40 or 15w50
 
#5 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (zedcorrado)

depends on what you call winter.
read the temp ratings for 10W and 20W, see what applies to you.
IIRC i remember reading the larger the spread (maybe not applies to synth) the less quality of the oil in general. ie 5W60 would breakdown or something wierd quicker than a straight 30W.
I'll have to dig up the link. There's alot of good oil info on google.com just search and read, then give us the cliff notes
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The big thing is not creating too much pressure for the g-lader seals when cold. Especially those with higher out put oil pumps. (or turbo's).
I'm talking about the general winter not the canadian/uber north winters you guys are nutz for living in that cold.
 
#6 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (mrkrad)

I use Rotella T 5w-40 year 'round. Works great and is less dough than Mobil 1 or Syntec = more
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Also, when I switched to it from Mobil 1 in my VR, the chains made a lot less noise. Not related at all, but it just might make a difference in your lifters.


Modified by pacobonnin at 1:49 PM 11-18-2004
 
#7 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (pacobonnin)

Honestly I would just spend $80 on new lifters and put them in. easy job take maybe an hour or two tops. Thats what i did I got tired of playing the lifter noise game.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (CHRGD_MK2)

So maybe try 15W-50? How much lighter is that to 20W-50?
 
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#10 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (mrkrad)

Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
how bout a new oil pump too?
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That helped me too. I did the lifters and the pump and it cured my lifter tick completely. the parts are inexpensive and the labor is super easy.Plus it would be along the lines of preventative maintenance.
 
#11 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (CHRGD_MK2)

I ran 20W50 amsoil syn last winter with no worrie's, I'm back to mobile1 syn 15w50, because I noticed better oil temp's using mobile1, my dad use to run petrol based castrol 20w50 in his porsche speedster year round, and he drove it year round, the stuff was thick as molasses, no problem's at all, depend's on how you operate your car in colder weather(I alway's let mine run for 4-5min's anyway's year round), if you like to start it and immediately flog it then no... go with a lighter weight,, go with a zero weight for winter use.

Scott.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (helldriver1)

I always let it run for atleast 5 minutes in the morning before driving, no matter what the temp...so thats not a problem.
I just decided to go with new lifters, I can get them for $8 a peice so thats not too bad. Its an easy replacement, so I'll just spend a couple hours this weekend and get it done right.
 
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#13 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (redvdubvert)

Quote, originally posted by redvdubvert »

I just decided to go with new lifters, I can get them for $8 a peice so thats not too bad. Its an easy replacement, so I'll just spend a couple hours this weekend and get it done right.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#15 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (g60vwr)

i tried to run 15w50 last winter in IOWA with air temps of like 20 and wind chills below zero etc and it didnt like it. mobil 1 full syn will pour at like -49 degrees supposedly
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i run 15w50 for spring summmer and most of fall
and 10w30 in the winter
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (Black86GTI)

So when I get my new lifters in, what oil should I run in the summer. Should I just use 15W-50 Amsoil? Or use 10W-40?
And should I stick with 10W-30 in the winter?
 
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#17 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (redvdubvert)

i run 10w30 all year around, but my motor was refreshed. doesn't overheat, matter of fact its too cold now. Aye.
If your motor is loose as a 2 dollar whore, you might just run 20w50 until you can rebuild/replace it.
letting your motor idle is the worst damage you can do to it. the Delta time from bone cold to hot, within reason (no lugging,no revving, no boosting) you want to be the shortest possible. Letting a car idle for 5 minutes i'd guess is doing about 5x the damage per day as 30 second idle and driving (correctly) for 30 seconds.
 
#18 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (mrkrad)

Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
Letting a car idle for 5 minutes i'd guess is doing about 5x the damage per day as 30 second idle and driving (correctly) for 30 seconds.

Just to help out the studio audience, what do you consider "correct" cold weather driving or a proper winter warm-up procedure?
 
#19 ·
Re: Running 20W-50 in the winter???? (snowbird)

Well for my winters, i run the car 30-60 seconds max, throw it in gear, and drive the car lightly.
Lightly means :
not lugging the motor
laying off the boost
not revving the car too high
of course if any safety factor you cannot correct (vision) it may be better to garage the car. In which case i do the 30 seconds, and go still. garages rule
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Once the car has reached its near op temp you can begin boosting. This i suggest for non-race cars (drag) 160-180F coolant temps with at least 130F oil temp, being careful with oil pressure if you have an enhanced (read the cheaper) oil pump.
Do i follow that? Not always, but i try. it is in both the audi a4 and bmw 330ci manual as well, so i take it good bit of research that dictates the least possible emissions we make (startup is most) the best for the engine.
makes sense? extreme temps require more extreme measures, engine block heaters, or garages (amazing contraptions).
 
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