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24v VR6 engine weight

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fbuelna

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
After too much wondering and some researching about the weight of my new engine, and how it is going to affect my car, I found this:
Though not for the 24v, this is from a 1997 A3 VW brochure (My A4 brochure has no technical info).
Mexican Jetta 97 GLX 2.0 : 1259 Kg (~2769 lbs)
Mexican Jetta 97 VR6 2.8 : 1340 Kg (~2948 lbs)
Diff: 81 Kg. (~178.2 lbs)
Mexican Golf GTI 2.0 : 1171 Kg (~2576.2 lbs)
Mexican Golf GTI VR6 : 1313 Kg (~2888.6 lbs)
Diff: 142 Kg (~312.4 lbs)
Jetta VR6 - GTI VR6 diff : 27 Kg (~59.4 lbs)
Jetta 2.0 - GTI 2.0 diff : 88 Kg. (~193.6 lbs)
There's a 61 Kg. (~134.2 lbs) Variation (I know the VR6 has more equipment but I feel this info is somehow non sense)
I still had no real idea of how much weight I was about to put in my car, so I did this:
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The two scales sum up ~265 Kg. (~583 lbs) for my 24v VR6. The crane chains are just slightly tensioned just to not let the engine lean forward, so the engine is almost fully supported by the two scales.
My car had a 1993 ABA 2.0 engine which I had no chance to check its weight when fully assembled. Suming the engine parts I came to an aproximation of 180 Kg. (~396 lbs), so there may be some 85 kg. (~187 lbs) of extra weight added to my car. This is closer to the 1997 Mexican Jetta weight difference in the 2.0 and VR6 models.
In a previous test, I supported the engine over the front longitudinal members with a pair of large wooden bars and took those pics of the right front suspension:
Before:
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After:
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This is how it may look inside the engine bay.
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Now I'm figuring out how the best position of the engine could be. By now, The left drive flange is touching the lower chassis.
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The right side engine support extension is touching the longitudinal member of the chassis:
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Anyone know what this right engine support extension is for? Can I cut it off? The Bentley doesn't show the purpose of this clearly.
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I'm more inclined to cut and reinforce the chassis rather than modifying the engine and transmission supports. I'm also more inclined to use these A4 supports than a A3-like setup.
What do you guys think of all this?
Modified by fbuelna at 2:24 PM 2-13-2005


Modified by fbuelna at 7:05 PM 2-13-2005
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (LubsDaDubs)

Thanks. I've already read (and saved to my HD) that thread. Its inspiring. I hope pataron could land in this thread and give me some advise.


Modified by fbuelna at 3:07 PM 2-13-2005
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (robbf23)

I bought the whole package through eBay almost a year ago. It came from North Carolina. It was little more than $4.5k
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Edit: It's somehow hard to find even a 12v VR6 in yunk yards around here. Not even think about the 24v.


Modified by fbuelna at 4:35 PM 2-13-2005
 
#9 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (fbuelna)

I like the way you think.
Image
I took about 3-1/2 months to build mine but it was worth it. Mine is a 12V however. Mine handles just fine with the weitec coilovers installed, but dont plan on going low, the oil pan really hangs down. The link that someone gave a few posts up has a lot of pics from my build that may hep you out. If you have any questions. IM me.

 
#10 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (patatron)

Before you go too far do remember that the 24V VR6 and the 12V VR6 are quite different. I have a buddy that is in the middle of a 24V swap, having already done a 12V swap, and is stuck. The 24V is a bit taller, has different mounting points, as is not very Mk2/Corrado friendly (I know this is the Mk1 forums.
 
#11 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (Cubster)

Quote, originally posted by Cubster »
Before you go too far do remember that the 24V VR6 and the 12V VR6 are quite different. I have a buddy that is in the middle of a 24V swap, having already done a 12V swap, and is stuck. The 24V is a bit taller, has different mounting points, as is not very Mk2/Corrado friendly (I know this is the Mk1 forums.

Oh well, ya gotta make custom mounts anyway. I had my first problem today. I went to go and do the 1/4 Mi. to see what she could do and on the third run, we snapped an axle. I gotta good feel for it and think the car is capable of high 13's with better tires, and a new axle (And a better 1/4 Mi. driver
Image
). I am pretty unexperienced with 1/4 Mi. racing, and just dont have the feel for it. My buddy is probably going to drive next week.




That me Welding the axle good enough to limp it home.
Image
And that 14.585 was with 32 PSI in the tires, we will run it lower next week, we lowered it today, but the added traction is what broke the axle.
Image




Modified by patatron at 8:30 PM 2-13-2005
 
#13 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (Cubster)

Quote, originally posted by Cubster »
I forgot to add---the 24V is also a bit taller. Just FYI for those taking on this endeavor.

That sucks, because my car is barely lowered, and my oil pan is way to close to the ground already. The 24V would be a situation. Dry Sump that thing!
Image
 
#14 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (patatron)

Quote, originally posted by patatron »

That sucks, because my car is barely lowered, and my oil pan is way to close to the ground already. The 24V would be a situation. Dry Sump that thing!
Image

Well the way I found out was by asking why (to my friend) was there $5k worth of parts lying around but the car (Mk2 GTI) was still in the air and not done. His quote " Well after spending $1k on mounts and some fab work the motor is going to stick up too far, about 1.5" above the hood line". Now that I think about it the fact that the owner wanted to retain the 6-speed may have been the cause of the problem too.
 
#15 ·
Re: 24v VR6 engine weight (Cubster)

Quote, originally posted by Cubster »

Well the way I found out was by asking why (to my friend) was there $5k worth of parts lying around but the car (Mk2 GTI) was still in the air and not done. His quote " Well after spending $1k on mounts and some fab work the motor is going to stick up too far, about 1.5" above the hood line". Now that I think about it the fact that the owner wanted to retain the 6-speed may have been the cause of the problem too.

I will trade you tranny's if that is an issue for you.
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I will cut and weld whatever neccessary to make it happen!
Image
 
#16 ·
on the passenger side ... why not make another mount like whats there from the factory .. and just build a little platform off of the frame rail (a little square with a hole drilled in it and have triangles supporting it below ) then just have that mount lower down ontop of it .. with a round mount or just a flat piece of poly ?
Trever
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Re: (Trevahhhh)

Quote, originally posted by Trevahhhh »
if you dont understand what im saying i can draw you a pic if you want

Is something like this what you are describing?
Image

I saw this guy doing this to his Cabriolet
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Its the 5th pic down from this page
http://pajalle.com/autot/cabrio_gli/page02.php
I recently dicovered in this pic how those towers are made:
Image

The bad thing is that the frame rails of the A1 are higher (I think) than those of the A4. I'm still thinking about it
 
#19 ·
Re: (fbuelna)

I think on a Mk1 you want a plate across the back of the tower and do the extra box section on the inside. At least that's how I'm going to approach it.
Looks good, I'm interested to see how these kinds of swaps turn out. Wish VW made an aluminum block VR6.
 
#20 ·
holy crap that guy has a naturally aspirated counterflow 8v in a mk4 ? *puzzled * anyways that isnt exactly what i was thinking ... i was more thinking of small platform being built off the side of the fram rail ... about in the place of the stock mount ... and make a bracket similar to the one on the the side of the 24v block . i think ill draw it up later and take a pic ...
 
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