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Necrocom4

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
so after spending about 2 times as much money as i bought it for in parts mostly to get the electrical ready because the car did in fact start and run great. then one day after i replace a rear brake caliper i go to turn the key and it does absolutly nothing. just a big click from the starter but it dont crank. well my initial thought was dead battery. nope battery was fine. so then i was like ok the starter must not be working right. so i get it off the car and test it. doesnt work. then i get a new one, put it in and guess what. it does the exact same damn thing it did before i got another starter. so now i have no fawking clue what i wanna do with this thing. it used to start fine and run fine and then this bs happens right before its time to get it on the road and im about to junk the thing out of frustration.
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Test the new starter, if it's from advance or autozone it may well be junk. You need to have a starter load tested to make sure it's not pulling enough juice to power a small country. They can be junk and still kick out and spin.
And have patience, and a large bank account, though not so much of the latter as a lot of Euro cars.
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Re: (wolf_walker)

And last time I put my starter in, I torqued the begeezus out of the bolts and it actually locked the starter up. I backed them off a hair and it works fine now....and hasn't fallen off so it's all good.



Modified by My Old Roc at 7:12 PM 9-16-2006
 
Re: (a4x0n)

Well it's a combination of a lot of things.
With my 16v, I had 2 PO's worth of absolute nonsense to straighten out and it has taken a lot of time and a lot of patience and money that I would have rather spent on getting it repainted (which I have yet to do
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) It takes a commitment. These cars don't like to sit, and they're 20 years old to boot.
As for the original problem here...
The 16v's are notorious for starter problems. It's a design issue with the starter itself. Most of us invest in the heaviest-duty battery we can get (high cold-cranking amp rated). Another solution is to get a starter from a diesel motor, many people have reported good luck with these. It sounds like a good battery is probably all you need. Having 12 volts at the battery is meaningless - it's the available cold cranking amperage that determines whether you have enough juice to actually start the car. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
ok had the starter tested and its fine. i was told check all relays fuses grounds yada yada. fuses are fine. relays i dunno. i doubt it has anything to do with the fuse panel. for kicks i decided to take the starter out but leave it connected. it seems i am getting power to the starter. it only makes a soft humming noise though.
 
Re: (Necrocom4)

Quote, originally posted by Necrocom4 »
ok had the starter tested and its fine. i was told check all relays fuses grounds yada yada. fuses are fine. relays i dunno. i doubt it has anything to do with the fuse panel. for kicks i decided to take the starter out but leave it connected. it seems i am getting power to the starter. it only makes a soft humming noise though.


Okay, let's try it again...
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You are not the first person to have this problem.
Alot of people have had this problem.
It is a very common problem that is well documented.
16v motors get older and need more oomph to start.
We generally accomplish this by putting in a heavy duty battery.
Yes, the starter probably does test fine.
It will probably start an 8v motor just fine with the battery you have now.
It won't do a damned thing removed from the car because unless it is bolted in, it has no ground for the solenoid or the motor - whether you leave the battery lead connected to it or not doesn't matter, there is no complete circuit with the starter unbolted from the car.
Put the starter back in the car and try a new battery, this will most-likely solve your problem.
 
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