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Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!!

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mywifesvdub

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! PICTURES ATTACHED!!!!

I just installed a new coilpack, along with other tuneup parts, b/c my old pack just crapped the bed.
2001 VW Golf GLS 2.0L (AVH)
New Parts Installed:
Coilpack (OEM Part#06A905097)
Spark Plugs(Part# APP 3923 Autolite Double Platinum .043 Gap)
Plug Wires(Prenco OEM Part #F1020-176660)
Now here is my story......
After install of the new products, I started my car up with no problem. My CEL went off...NICE!! I then proceeded and backed out my driveway. When I first gave it some gas my CEL came back on and my car started to sputter.
I then continued to drive it approx. 7 miles below 40 MPH. With every push of the throttle, my car would sputter and struggle to make it up hills.
I came back to the house, shut the car down and hooked up my OBD2 and it threw the following codes:
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Before I replaced the coil pack, it was throwing this code:

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
I checked and rechecked everything to make sure that everyhting was hooked up correctly.
I then took out the plugs to recheck the gap and they was fine. Pushed on each plug wire and they were seated correctly.
Can anyone come up with a solution b/c this has pretty much consumed my whole weekend thus far.
Thanks guys(or gals),
Carl


Modified by mywifesvdub at 8:00 PM 9-1-2007
 
#3 ·
Re: Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! (JoshRambo)

On the 2.0's there is only one coil pack. Codes 2 - 5 tell you there is a malfunction in the ifnition system. This is a fairly simple one. There is a TSB floating around Vw about a bad ground on the later 2.0's. All you need to do is supply a good ground to the coil pack. Usually technicians will get a wire part number 000-979-225, 000-979-230, and a butt connector part number 111-971-940-A. The 225 part number is the connector in the coil pack connector, the 230 is a wire and ring terminal that connects to the ground terminal of the battery and you just use the butt connector to connect the two wires.
 
#4 ·
Re: Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! (fixmy59bug)

Quote, originally posted by fixmy59bug »
On the 2.0's there is only one coil pack. Codes 2 - 5 tell you there is a malfunction in the ifnition system.

Did not know that.
 
#6 ·
Re: Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! (mywifesvdub)

yup, Now go give it a better ground.
Image

Although I also just now noticed that you used aftermarket plugs. Not too sure if that will affect anything, but the general consensus is to stay with OEM plugs.


Modified by fixmy59bug at 4:46 PM 9-1-2007
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Re: Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! (fixmy59bug)

There is nothing to ground the coilpack too other than the female connector that goes into the pack.
Here is a picture of the female connector and a pic of where it goes into the coilpack:
Image

Image

How should I ground it?


Modified by mywifesvdub at 7:58 PM 9-1-2007
 
#8 ·
Re: Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! (mywifesvdub)

Yup. That is the connector in question. Find the brown wire going into the terminal housing, snip it but Make sure to leave enough wire to connect it to another wire, Now go and connect it to another wire and ground it to the negative battery terminal.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Tried the suggestion above with no luck. Also, heard a slight backfire sound with a funky smell coming from under the car or from the exhaust. The car sputteres when given alot of gas, but when I slowly give it gas it seems a little better. Sometimes the car looks like I have hydralics, it bounces so much.
Might have to just breakdown and take it to the stealership. I am just at a loss now.
 
#10 ·
Re: Just INSTALLED coilpack!! CEL still on and SPUTTERING!!! (fixmy59bug)

Quote, originally posted by fixmy59bug »
On the 2.0's there is only one coil pack. Codes 2 - 5 tell you there is a malfunction in the ifnition system. This is a fairly simple one. There is a TSB floating around Vw about a bad ground on the later 2.0's. All you need to do is supply a good ground to the coil pack. Usually technicians will get a wire part number 000-979-225, 000-979-230, and a butt connector part number 111-971-940-A. The 225 part number is the connector in the coil pack connector, the 230 is a wire and ring terminal that connects to the ground terminal of the battery and you just use the butt connector to connect the two wires.

not to thread jack but...
ive heard about making that 2nd ground. would that possibly be the solution to this code my car has previously thrown and has yet to be fixed?
17772 - Cylinder 4 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
P1364 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
and where can i find those parts that coincide with the partnumbers? instead of paying to get that work done?


Modified by Clean PG at 11:39 PM 9-1-2007
 
#11 ·
Re: (mywifesvdub)

I hear autolites suck... haven't tried them personally but maybe??? also did you disconnect the battery when you were working on the car?
also are you sure that your wires are in the correct firing order?


Modified by Kiddo at 9:41 PM 9-1-2007
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Re: (Kiddo)

Has anyone had luck with autolites? I know they are not NGK but would this cause my problems?
Yes the firing order is correct. 1 to A, 2 to B, 3 to C and 4 to D. This is the cprrect order for the AVH engine.
YES I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY...MANY OF TIMES!!!!. I am not a newbie when it comes to working on cars, just stuck on this problem that I can't seem to solve yet.
Anyone else see a resolution?
 
#16 ·
The reason a 1.8T is .032 is because it's turbo. If it were bigger the increase compression from the turbo would blow the spark out. .043 is fine for a normally aspirated engine and that is what is recommended for my 2002 24V VR6 engine.
 
#17 ·
Re: (Mr.BooMY)

Quote, originally posted by Mr.BooMY »
The reason a 1.8T is .032 is because it's turbo. If it were bigger the increase compression from the turbo would blow the spark out. .043 is fine for a normally aspirated engine and that is what is recommended for my 2002 24V VR6 engine.

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Just got the car back from the stealership. Here is what they found.
Replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor(was corroded)
Performed major fuel injection cleaning (BG Kit 20608)
Also replaced my drivers door sensor that was bad that had my car going crazy with electrical issues.
FYI: MAF sensor was covered under the 100K Powertrain warranty. Not sure if everyone knows about this. Most people think that when their regular warranty runs out, that's it. NOT TRUE. Any work done at the stealership which includes electrical, ask first.
Before Warranty costs: $734
After Warranty costs: $378 (including diagnostics)



Modified by mywifesvdub at 4:29 PM 9-7-2007
 
#19 ·
Re: (mywifesvdub)

I was thinking maybe MAF... but then saw your post about taking it to the dealer. Glad it worked out.
As for the MAF being under warranty, I think the car's delivery date also has to be within 7-years? Could be wrong but still, glad it all worked out.
 
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