So - my non-A/C car has this setup. It's acutally pretty nice - WHEN IT'S NOT SQUEAKING LIKE IM GONNA KILL PEOPLE!!
Anyway, there's a more modern alternative. A3s have these nice brackets. Since A3s are everywhere and nobody wants them
, I went to the salvage yard and got me my parts.
The Most of the parts come from a 2.0 8v Mk3. The Waterpump pulley is from an A3 VR6 - those are also fairly common, but if you can't find one to destroy, you can go to the dealership and buy one for about $30. (those asshats!!)
so:
A3 Alternator, A/C model (grab the blue wire's plug too!!)
A3 VR6 Water pump pulley
A3 2.0L crank pulley with bolts (take the bolts out and bang the thing off the crank, they are always tighter than hell!)
A3 Bracket with tension arm
Bolts from the A3's waterpump. If you have a 16v or a 2.0, make sure to get the little weird one that has that huge 17mm thing, that second one from the left.
Remember the alternator's bolts!!
Belt: I used a 6PK1040 belt - that's 6 ribs and 1040mm long. 1038mm is good too.
Now, Important step here... Negative battery cable off so you don't die when you take the B+ terminal off the alternator.
Get your brackets off. In my case it's just a matter of 4 13mm bolts. Then there's these two. You need them here for the engine mount, but without the original bracket, they need some space. You can leave the old bracket there, cut it, or what I did - nut it.
They provide the spacing of the bracket.
Now, switch the waterpump bolts one at a time so you don't unseal the pump from the block. These are 19mm
Remove your waterpump pulley. Mine was heald on with 3 6mm hex bolty things... I used a driver with a ratchet, with an allen key on the next one up to hold the pulley still while I cracked the next one.
Now, take your crank pulley off. This is easy if ya know how do do it right. Use Decicisive Movements to crack them loose. If you do it right, you don't even need to put the car in gear.
Here's the crank sprocket.
Now, slap your new pulleys on.
Pretty easy there.
The problem with Mk2 sciroccos and this setup is that the framerail gets in the way of this bolt here. We need something flatter. I used an M6 phillips screw going through to the other side with a nylock nut there.
You need to put in the bottom alternator bolt before you put the bracket in the car - as the bolt is too long and will hit the framerail when you get the bracket in.
As you can see, I still had to "Modify" the framerail a bit to MAKE that bolt fit. It's better than the original bolt though.
That's CLOSE!
There it is runnin!
I put the belt on by threading it over all the pullies except for the waterpump. Then I just pulled the belt over the waterpump against the tensioner's tension, and the belt is ON!!
Connect your wires to your new alternator. Should be much the same if you already had a 90A alternator. The field wire (blue) uses a bosch fuel injection connector for connection to the A3 alternator. You can splice that thar right in! (for extra credit, crimp a new audi one on like I did!)
Here's the BEST part:
You don't have to rev the engine to get the stupid battery light to go out!!
I'll add more to this tomorow, I am going to paint the frame rail where the modification took place.




Anyway, there's a more modern alternative. A3s have these nice brackets. Since A3s are everywhere and nobody wants them

The Most of the parts come from a 2.0 8v Mk3. The Waterpump pulley is from an A3 VR6 - those are also fairly common, but if you can't find one to destroy, you can go to the dealership and buy one for about $30. (those asshats!!)
so:
A3 Alternator, A/C model (grab the blue wire's plug too!!)
A3 VR6 Water pump pulley
A3 2.0L crank pulley with bolts (take the bolts out and bang the thing off the crank, they are always tighter than hell!)
A3 Bracket with tension arm
Bolts from the A3's waterpump. If you have a 16v or a 2.0, make sure to get the little weird one that has that huge 17mm thing, that second one from the left.
Remember the alternator's bolts!!

Belt: I used a 6PK1040 belt - that's 6 ribs and 1040mm long. 1038mm is good too.

Now, Important step here... Negative battery cable off so you don't die when you take the B+ terminal off the alternator.

Get your brackets off. In my case it's just a matter of 4 13mm bolts. Then there's these two. You need them here for the engine mount, but without the original bracket, they need some space. You can leave the old bracket there, cut it, or what I did - nut it.

They provide the spacing of the bracket.

Now, switch the waterpump bolts one at a time so you don't unseal the pump from the block. These are 19mm

Remove your waterpump pulley. Mine was heald on with 3 6mm hex bolty things... I used a driver with a ratchet, with an allen key on the next one up to hold the pulley still while I cracked the next one.

Now, take your crank pulley off. This is easy if ya know how do do it right. Use Decicisive Movements to crack them loose. If you do it right, you don't even need to put the car in gear.


Here's the crank sprocket.

Now, slap your new pulleys on.

Pretty easy there.

The problem with Mk2 sciroccos and this setup is that the framerail gets in the way of this bolt here. We need something flatter. I used an M6 phillips screw going through to the other side with a nylock nut there.



You need to put in the bottom alternator bolt before you put the bracket in the car - as the bolt is too long and will hit the framerail when you get the bracket in.

As you can see, I still had to "Modify" the framerail a bit to MAKE that bolt fit. It's better than the original bolt though.

That's CLOSE!

There it is runnin!
I put the belt on by threading it over all the pullies except for the waterpump. Then I just pulled the belt over the waterpump against the tensioner's tension, and the belt is ON!!

Connect your wires to your new alternator. Should be much the same if you already had a 90A alternator. The field wire (blue) uses a bosch fuel injection connector for connection to the A3 alternator. You can splice that thar right in! (for extra credit, crimp a new audi one on like I did!)
Here's the BEST part:
You don't have to rev the engine to get the stupid battery light to go out!!






I'll add more to this tomorow, I am going to paint the frame rail where the modification took place.