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DIGI II Troubleshooting (Help me to get my car running please)

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#21 ·
FV-QR

Fuel in the exhaust? Are the cylinders filling too, any of them?
Run the pumps, pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator, there should not be any fuel there at all. Fuel at that vacuum port means the FPR diaphragm is ruptured, the FPR must be replaced. Use care around that old, plastic fuel rail, it's likely quire brittle by now.
 
#22 ·
Re: FV-QR (tolusina)

I am no expert by any means but I have a thought, Have you tested your air flow sensor and air temp sensors both systems have them and they can be tested with a voltmeter.
Sounds like the only thing not checked yet, the reason I bring that up is that you may be getting pulses to the injectors but it may be telling them to open too much or not enough based on faulty sensor info.
Might be something to look at here's a link showing the digi II air flow sensor and how to test it and the digi I system tests are the same.
http://www.oneilcastro.com/A2B....html
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Re: FV-QR (tolusina)

Quote, originally posted by tolusina »
Fuel in the exhaust? Are the cylinders filling too, any of them?
Run the pumps, pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator, there should not be any fuel there at all. Fuel at that vacuum port means the FPR diaphragm is ruptured, the FPR must be replaced. Use care around that old, plastic fuel rail, it's likely quire brittle by now.



No fuel on the FPR'S hose. I did washed the FRP with my ultrasonic cleaner and some carb and choke cleaner for about 2 hours along with the injectors. Yeah there was fuel on the exhaust mani but there's no more after I got it out by starting it with no spark plugs in and the fuel rail unplugged, tries to start and it didn't even want to make an attempt
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Re: FV-QR (1988Audi80NA)

Quote, originally posted by 1988Audi80NA »
I am no expert by any means but I have a thought, Have you tested your air flow sensor and air temp sensors both systems have them and they can be tested with a voltmeter.
Sounds like the only thing not checked yet, the reason I bring that up is that you may be getting pulses to the injectors but it may be telling them to open too much or not enough based on faulty sensor info.
Might be something to look at here's a link showing the digi II air flow sensor and how to test it and the digi I system tests are the same.
http://www.oneilcastro.com/A2B....html

MAF, i haven't tested it since, eventhough I disconect the intake tube, the car still won't start. I replaced the MAF about 2 years ago. On that occation I would unplug the MAF connector and the car would run, crappy but it would run. This time it doesn;t even start. As far as a IAT, I have never heard of one in Digi II, I know Digi I has one as well as Motronic but not in Digi II, but like I said, as far as I know.
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This car is making me wanting to give up and buy a Hyunday
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that's how desperate I am at this point. There are cars that are stubborn byt this one would be the king
 
#25 ·
As far as i remember IAT is part of the MAF, As far as when i've been trouble shooting my car, when i've had spark and fuel the only thing thats stopped the engine firing was the idle valve with air leak and MAF unplugged.
Dont get me wrong, i've had it running with out an maf before but it seamed to be a one off and it doesnt want to know now!


Modified by burnt01 at 1:46 PM 1-22-2010
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Re: DIGI II Troubleshooting (NAVI51)

I talked to a guy today. He told me that someting that happened to him was that the crank sprocket had broken on his car once and that he had the same symphtoms as I'm having right now. Everything would turn with the proper timming, gas, air, spark, pulses, and everythigh. I wonder if this is possible
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Re: DIGI II Troubleshooting (ziddey)

Supposedly the timming belt will spin just like mine, but it will not spin as fast as the crank due to the fact that it will spin because of friction intead of because it is solidly attached to the crank
 
#32 ·
Re: DIGI II Troubleshooting (NAVI51)

you sure you're getting proper spark? not just initial spark and then it stops?
you got good grounds? jumped the cts? unplugged the o2? measured out the maf output?
plug wires in right order?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Re: DIGI II Troubleshooting (ziddey)

Proper spark, tested it with the spark/wire tester, the grounds are good, the O2 sensor is in it's place. I don't know how to measure the MAF output. However, I know that even with a bad MAF the car will start but wont stay on for more than 20 secs. The wires are in the right order: 1,3,4,2
 
#34 ·
FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by NAVI51 »
I talked to a guy today. He told me that someting that happened to him was that the crank sprocket had broken on his car once and that he had the same symphtoms as I'm having right now. Everything would turn with the proper timming, gas, air, spark, pulses, and everythigh. I wonder if this is possible

Quote, originally posted by ziddey »
what does that mean? crank sprocket broke? so it doesnt spin? if so, then the timing belt isn't going to spin.

I posted links on that topic above.
---
This just, finally, came to mind, the intake duct. Remove it from the car, look inside towards a good light source, flex it in all directions looking for a crack that's been hiding from you so far.
 
#36 ·
Re: FV-QR (NAVI51)

If the car has fuel, spark, air and proper timing it should run. At this point If I were you I'd carefully check the timing and if that is good replace the Air Flow Meter. Those are two areas you seem to be assuming that are good. FR
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Re: FV-QR (Fat Rabbit)

Te timming I have checked it more than 4 times on the belt and the point on the tranny. The MAF, I'm not refusing to the fact that it might be faulty but even if this was the case I know that the car would do more than just crank
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#40 ·
Re: FV-QR (NAVI51)

If it'd digifant 2, each inyector sould read between 15 and 20 ohms for resistance.
To check if signal is getting to the inyector connector you'll need a LED test light and put it on the terminals of each inyector connector while someone else cranks the engine.
About the comment on "the engine seems to block and the clicking noise", have you tried to turn the engine with a wrench?
 
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