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Need help on Lysholm install and start up protocols

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harleybrown4160

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I got a killer deal on this lysholm here on the vortex but the used setup didnt include any of the how toos and whats whats or how do I get this thing on right and not grenade my motor right from the get go. Any help out there would be great. Like do I bend my dipstick tube or what mine is real tight in the spot it comes up through???? All info needed BBM offered no help they sent me instructions on how to take off my G ladder and thats all. HELP Please!!!!:confused:
 
#2 ·
if you were to buy it new from bbm, they wouldn't give you any instructions either!

anyways, it's pretty easy

yes bend dipstick tube... they recomend a tube bender, but it's not needed.

remove the rear bracket(s) and use the block off plate with nipple and run the hose from that nipple to the corresponding nipple on the lysholm. then run the stock oil feed and oil return lines to their respective nipples on the lysholm. then mount it up normally

done

easy
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
so there it is

Ok so got all that done now tell me there are no real worries in firing her back up should I put the big pulley on to start I do not have my stage 4 cam or chip in yet I do have a bigger fpr in the car and can put in my bigger injectors if need be. I have the chip but one prong on the end is missing thanks to the previous owner can anything be done about that? Also shoul I just go ahead and stick the stage 4 cam in now I guess I should while I am at it rather than be impatient hmmm your thoughts??? :bow:
 
#4 ·
if one of the prongs is gone, you're probably gooing to have to get a new chip. i'd hold off adding any more fast stuffs until you're ready to add the cam and the chip together

depending on what pulley you got on the lysolm, you can get by without the cam and the chip for now

I ran stage 4 for a while until I went with bigger injectors, the 18 psi pulley and the silencer kit
 
#5 ·
i was runing 18 psi on mine stage 4 sns and ran ok but couldnt advance the timeing to where i wanted casue it would lean out witch casued me to melt a piston so i said F 8v 16v FTW so now i have a 2l 16v fully built with the lysholm and im glad a blew the g60 motor POS
 
#7 ·
i'd get your chip and the rest of your fueling figured out before you start the car back up

you've got a bigger FPR but the stock chip?

don't play around or your gonna kill your motor

check the correct chip for you application and use the FPR and injector sizes that the chip is made for

cam isn't critical, do it when ever
 
#8 ·
As mentioned, the install of the lysholm is VERY easy. Almost identical to the G60 really. But like the others have mentioned, DONT run a stage 4 without the essentials. You'd be fine to run stock boost from it but anything more than that, I'd hold off til you get funds together to get a full stage 4.

My full stage 4 1.9L is VERY quick. I beat my buddies VR6 with MK4 head gasket and a ton of mods (everything but a cam basically). But I have 30lb injectors, 268 cams, stage 5 SNS chip (runs the car better than BBM's stage 4 IMO). so my a/f is around what it should be (not 100% dialed in like I need to be with my timing and stuff), yours...........not so much.
 
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#9 ·
drkreign said:
My full stage 4 1.9L is VERY quick. I beat my buddies VR6 with MK4 head gasket and a ton of mods (everything but a cam basically). But I have 30lb injectors, 268 cams, stage 5 SNS chip (runs the car better than BBM's stage 4 IMO). so my a/f is around what it should be (not 100% dialed in like I need to be with my timing and stuff), yours...........not so much.
Click to expand...
^^camz :confused: ;)
 
#12 ·
Ahhh, spelltex.......god how I missed you. :what:

But yes, the rado is packing heat my friends :D
 
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Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
current status

I do have a TT stage 2 chip in the car and I also have a 3.5 bar fpr in it or is it a 4 bar hmmm cant remember but I know its upgraded and so is my fuel pump my in tank is a turbine walbro I have on hand a set of balanced 380cc injectors that I was saving for my 16v motor project but could drop them in. Battery is in back now with a new distribution bank and 2 gauge cables lots of room in there as I think I said earlier I am running a FMIC and its all custom plumbed to minimize restriction of boost. Do I need to run the boost return or can I still keep it vented to the atmosphere like I had on my built G ladder system? I made a real slick turn down boost return pipe that puts it all down and out by my header tunnel and it worked great on the old system. So couldnt I run it ok on the lower boost pulleys for now and be ok or I have the cam and can buy whatever chip I may need based on best recomendations I get here. Is there now way for me to solder a prong back on this one end prong on the chip or I do have some very tiny solderless crimp terminals that we use in slot cars that could slip over whats left of the prong and still make very good contact. Just a thought......... :banghead:
 
#14 ·
As a former Lysholm owner I can tell you that youll be fine until you get a new chip. Unless your a moron? If your a moron just sell your car now..lol Your foot is the best way to take care of your boost.. Keep your foot from gettin ginto the motor too much and youll be fine. The hard part is keeping your foot out of the gas until your setup is complete.. People err on the side of caution a little too much.. Is it ideal to run your car without the right fuel map..No. Can youwithout doing damage to the motor? Yes you can. Ohh and finally, dont take advice from anyone talking about their 8v and using the term cams.. LMAO:D
 
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#15 ·
I would suggest getting the chip. Although you can run it, chances of anything going wrong are a lot slimmer. You can still buy a chip from B&M I'm pretty sure. I would suggest installing the cam, since it's pretty easy while waiting for the chip. Once you have the correct chip, and a nice cam, the car should be a ton of fun.
 
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