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16vt vs. 20vt

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21 - 38 of 38 Posts
#21 ·
I think you should look at the 16v aba thread. You can get 300hp out of that set up and it would not cost a shti load to build. And if you go that route it will fit in the car without custom mounts.(if you use a 020) I would go with a G60 trans as its built for boost(you will need custom mounts and you would have to do a hydro set up for the clutch). You should beef up the front mount so you dont rip it off the car. Good luck
 
#23 ·
I have bfi stg2 mounts... ripped my front mount right out of the support.. and I have 2 years and miles on my eurovan clutch cable setup. and I'm drive by wire.. but I agree, the 16v can be built and driven daly on a good standalone system, once tuned and if built right and well, everyday all day. I still say go 30r for either.
 
#24 ·
I say go 16v with a 50 trim turbo and either digi1 or mk3 motronic for management (chip tuning is way cheaper and alot easier to set up/maintain). You won't quite get 400whp out of it, but like stated above, I don't think you have any idea what you're in for with 400whp. 250-275whp in a Rabbit is more than enough to scare the **** out of 99% of drivers out there, as these cars don't weigh much more than your right shoe. I would also suggest going a bit more budget on your turbo setup, even at the sacrafice of some horsepower. Remember, these are not very strong bodies, you're going to sepend some good time and/or money to stiffen up the shell. Myself and other 16vt/20v owners on here can attest to the extreme torque twist you'll have, even with a very mild setup. With that being said, good luck, do as much research as you can (the technical forums are a really good place to start), and most of all have fun. You're going to have one monster of a car when you're done :p
 
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#27 ·
why cage it?

serious improvement in body stiffness, and safety, and style....

you said you want to gutt out the interior anyway so it would look weird without a cage anyway.

a stiffer body will let the suspension work better, decrease body roll, gives a safer feel and is mandatory for most races, even though you stated you may track it only 2x a year.
 
#28 ·
by asking if it was stock, i was asking if you had modefied it at all, i didn't know the k24 was capable of that much power
 
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#29 ·
richardkelly said:
I was planning on seem welding the whole bay, upper, lower, front and rear stress bars as well and anything else that needs attention. Why do you say cage it?
Click to expand...
Like Otti said above and I stated in my earlier post, Rabbits are not very strong chasis', and need to be reinforced for the kind of power that you're looking for. Also as Otti stated, due to the fact that you're stripping the car anyways, there is really no reason not to cage. I have a cage in mine, and my car will will be at least 100whp less than what you're looking to get. While were on the subject of stiffness, I would also suggest some sort of 4 point sub frame and a front cross member brace. You can use what is known as a "k-bar", which was a factory unit on some Sciroccos, or if you wanted to spend a few extra bucks, Eurosport makes one. The cross member brace can be either bought from Blackforestindustries.com, or if you're handy with a welder you can make one yourself. If you would like a rough idea of what the brace looks like, shoot me a pm and I can send you a picture of the homemade one that is currently on my car. :thumbup:
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
I was looking at them on BFI, Im not so handy with a welder but my friend in the next town is very handy and has done exellent work on many mkIV, III and first gen ford pannel vans, I more than trust him with the metal work for this vehicle
 
#31 ·
Sounds good. Get him to weld up that piece for you, and while he's in there, weld a cage in for you. Since he's a buddy of yours, it won't cost much as you'll probably only be paying for materials and some beer :p I may be a bit insistant about this, but I believe that a sound, stiff and properly reinforced body is just as if not more important than the monster motor that will be stuffed in the engine bay.
 
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#32 ·
What kind of suspension are you running for these setups?? I was trying to determine between coils or cup kit?? i searched the forum but couldnt find anything specific to what i was looking for. Any feedback would be great!

I had coilovers before but they were cheap FK ones and Vmaxx and hated the stiff, feel like you're car is going to fall apart if u hit a small hole feeling soo trying not to get into something like that again if possible :p


Thanks!!
- J
 
#36 ·
Sony487 said:
What kind of suspension are you running for these setups?? I was trying to determine between coils or cup kit?? i searched the forum but couldnt find anything specific to what i was looking for. Any feedback would be great!

I had coilovers before but they were cheap FK ones and Vmaxx and hated the stiff, feel like you're car is going to fall apart if u hit a small hole feeling soo trying not to get into something like that again if possible :p


Thanks!!
- J
Click to expand...
I have KW V2's in my Rabbit, and would not recommend anything else. They drive great and are not TOO harsh (lets remember that we are driving mk1's here :laugh: ). Also they run dampening adjustable Koni yellows, so if you ever do have to rebuild them parts should be easily accessible.
 
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#38 ·
Sony487 said:
thanks for the feedback yeah def was looking at the KW V1's since i didnt really need crazy adjustment in dampering but thanks for input :p
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In that case, you should look into ST coilovers. They are just rebranded V1's, but are hundreds of dollars cheaper.
 
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16v_HOR
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