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CHABER

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
lets see where to begin. i have a 2002 vw gti 1.8t with 95 k miles on it, unitronic stage 1 +

sometimes on cold starts i notice that the car will sputter, only for 30 seconds if that, this has only happened on the first start up of the day, after that its fine. i've narrowed it down to

-vacuum leaks
-dirty maf
-coolant temp sensor
-bad n249 (what is the likelyhood of this?)

i initially began seeing problems when one night after heavy boost i noticed my dv (forge splitter) began fluttering, it did not do that before. i removed my n249 valve and ran a vacuum source directly from the manifold to the dv and it ran fine with no fluttering. then i cleaned my maf with rubbing alcohol and the sputtering on cold start seemed to die down. however, i reconnected the n249 valve and the fluttering on the dv returned, so maybe i have a vac leak somewhere else? i also noticed car sputtering on cold starts again (sometimes)

with regards to the coolant temp sensor, i replaced it over the summer from the black one to the green one because i had a cel for it, replaced it and the cel went away. i noticed since it began getting cold out that my temp gauge rarely reaches 190 degrees, the car does not overheat, however, so i doubt its the thermostat and the timing belt/waterpump/serpentine belt were replaced at 73k miles. could the new coolant temp sensor have gone bad?

a friend of mine scanned the car and i had 3 codes, one for n249, one for n112, and one for improper flow code. i don't want to remove these parts due to emissions. my buddy also measured my boost and i was spiking at 20-21 psi , so i've concluded that its probably not a boost leak. what we did notice, however, was that we saw boost starting at 4k rpms and not at 3 k, we think this may be because either we did the test on the vag com at one second intervals, so we think it could be a delayed reading from the vag com or maybe delayed boost because of a vacuum leak?

after this we did the same kind of test on my friends '05 audi a4 1.8t (stock) and his boost started at 3k rpms, however we did some revisions and did the test at half second intervals.

when my engine is running i notice i hear some light hissing coming from the area where the throttle body/alternator is. don't know if its just in my head or if i'm just mistaking this for my serpentine belt running.

so in a nutshelll:
- dv fluttering when connected to n249.
-temp gauge rarely reaches 190 degrees.
- possible delayed boost.

what do you guys think? thanks in advance for any help!
 
Yep sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. If your incorrect flow code is a P0411, check the combination valve vacuum line. It's known to fail. Check your vacuum lines, especially the ones going to the vacuum reservoir (black tank on top of engine, vacuum lines all up in it).

You definitely sound like you have a vacuum leak.

Plus, seeing you're there, just run your DV straight to manifold and enjoy reliable boost pressure. Not that namby pamby overboost bs protection from the n249. Just leave the n249 connected :D

Your temp issue is not your biggest concern right now. For all we know, it could be because with the vacuum leak throwing your adaptive fuel strategy out the window, the engine is running too rich, and coupled with the cold weather, can't generate enough heat to maintain 190. Especially if you're moving.
 
Cold start

I believe the SAI combi valve is located near the alternator. If that is stuck open it will allow exhaust gases into your intake and make you run rich until the O2s compensates for it and the PCM making corrections.

If there is a leak from the SAI side then there would be a pressure drop allowing the DV to flutter.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
ok so update.

i haven't replaced any vacuum hoses but i did connect a vacuum line directly from the manifold to the dv, and in doing so connected a boost gauge.

idle at 20 hg and hit full boost at 3 k rpms, which is normal.

car still sputters when its really really cold out though. if i let it idle for 20-40 seconds its fine, it only sputters if i drive off immediately after i start the car. there is a hole in the hose that connects the sai pump to the combi, this is because it cracked when i was working on it (stupid flimsy hoses).

i do have inconsistent boost however, fluctuating from 15-20 psi from like 3500-5000 rpms, haven't brought it higher than that. could this be because the n249 is not connected? or perhaps my forge splitter is not put to the proper spring rate, going to double check on that.
 
Discussion starter · #14 · (Edited)
Wondering...maybe it can be an intermittetn misfire issue? Do you have vag-com? Are you getting a CEL?
i have a cel and its for the n249 and combi since they are disconnected (since i always got fluttering of the dv when the n249 was connected)

my buddy scanned it with a vagcom, didn't show any codes for misfires.

had 3 codes, one for the n249, one for the n112 (i think thats what it was anyway, whatever the combi valve is), and improper flow code, which i expected since these parts are not connected.

i'm starting to think there might be a leak in the hose that connects the combi valve to the tip, maybe that would cause sputtering?

i was also thinking maybe my car just doesn't like the cold, but this never happened in years prior.

however, last year I was'nt chipped nor did i have the forge splitter. replaced coolant temp sensor over the summer but coolant readings with vag com were fine.

when the car sputters it does kind of feel like a misfire but I don't think its a misfire but theres always that possibility. rpm's usually drop and boost gauge reads at 0.
 
if i let it idle for 20-40 seconds its fine, it only sputters if i drive off immediately after i start the car.
Hmm...When's the last time the fuel filter was changed?
 
Have you checked timing? What is the MAF reading at idle? Have you logged misfires? Fuel trims? I think, but could be wrong N112 and SAI's improper flow could result in the car not adapting to the fuel trims. Just a thought.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Hmm...When's the last time the fuel filter was changed?
honestly probably never...i got the car at 60k miles and haven't changed it.

Have you checked timing? What is the MAF reading at idle? Have you logged misfires? Fuel trims? I think, but could be wrong N112 and SAI's improper flow could result in the car not adapting to the fuel trims. Just a thought.
haven't checked any of that. i did clean the maf and the problem persisted. I'm beginning to think that the n112 is at fault because there is a hole on one of the hoses that connect to it, causing it to malfunction. I'm going to try and fix that and see if it change anything.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Hey, same issue here.

If I let mine idle for 20-40 secs it does not sputter/feel like limp mode. But on some occasions, if I start the car and go, it will sputter and have no power.

I'm going to make a pressure tester to check if there are boost leaks.
i thought mine was a boost leak in the beginning as well but my boost gauge readings are normal (20hg idle, full boost at 3 k rpms).
 
i thought mine was a boost leak in the beginning as well but my boost gauge readings are normal (20hg idle, full boost at 3 k rpms).
Then it's probably not the N112. Those are vac lines under the intake manifold. Also, if you want to get into it pull those sensors off and get a couple resistors and do it that way. That damn plastic suction jet valve could be leaking too. Do you notice while driving the car cools down? and maybe you got a 180 degree thermostat with the timing belt kit? I went through this so I know it's very very frustrating. My problem ended up being that my intake cam jumped a tooth. I had almost the exact same codes.
 
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