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#1,781 ·
adrew said:
Most of the new-tech turbo cars are programmed to deliver flat torque curves. Here is the Regal turbo:
Image
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But that's from factory. Would it be possible for a person to get a tune that looked like that when they bolt on a turbo to an originally N/A motor?

Another question: why NOT use the engine to brake the car?
 
#1,782 ·
C4 A6 said:
But that's from factory. Would it be possible for a person to get a tune that looked like that when they bolt on a turbo to an originally N/A motor?
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Yes, you could.

small turbo with quick spool up, and a good amount of low-load ignition advance should get you something that looks like that.
 
#1,786 ·
The reason some people are against using an engine to brake the car is because when when you downshift the car the engine is no longer driving the wheels the wheels are driving the engine. Because of this when it is downshifted, the crank shaft suddenly rips down on the connecting rods and over time this can cause them to be out of round. Then when you take apart the engine to rebuild it at some point they may have to be sent off to a machine shop to be rebored.
 
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#1,791 ·
Mr. Dew said:
The reason some people are against using an engine to brake the car is because when when you downshift the car the engine is no longer driving the wheels the wheels are driving the engine. Because of this when it is downshifted, the crank shaft suddenly rips down on the connecting rods and over time this can cause them to be out of round. Then when you take apart the engine to rebuild it at some point they may have to be sent off to a machine shop to be rebored.
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I've never heard that. If you downshift correctly, ie rev match and put it in gear, there should not be any sudden ripping on the conrods. I always heard that people don't like to use engine braking because it is easier to replace brake pads than a clutch and/or transmission.
 
#1,794 ·
Let's say I'm building a 1200hp car and put massive fuel lines, a massive fuel pump, fuel cell, etc. on. I assume it would need to be return style for me to run this on, say, a stock (~260hp) engine? What else would it take to be able to install the big fuel setup but not use it to capacity?
 
#1,796 ·
MustacheGT said:
Let's say I'm building a 1200hp car and put massive fuel lines, a massive fuel pump, fuel cell, etc. on. I assume it would need to be return style for me to run this on, say, a stock (~260hp) engine? What else would it take to be able to install the big fuel setup but not use it to capacity?
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standalone w/ a great tune, 1000-1500cc injectors, sx fuel pressure regulator
 
#1,797 ·
v.vdubb said:
standalone w/ a great tune, 1000-1500cc injectors, sx fuel pressure regulator
Click to expand...
So... it would be regulated down to basically stock flow using JUST the FPR?

The whole point of this would be to build the car fully ready for the new engine and transmission but using a stock engine/tranny for the time being until funds are collected. Hell the fuel system alone is around $1300.
 
#1,798 ·
iLoveMyIS said:
Something I was always tempted to try on my last car.

In an automatic, is it possible to shift from Drive to Reverse while moving at moderate-to-high speeds (i.e. 30mph+).
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done this twice in my rx7 before I swapped it to stick. its not a good thing to do, its much like pulling a really good ebrake, I don't like automatics and I have only owned two, a 1984 volvo, and the rx7,

in the rx7 I would always shift manuely as I like to drive the crap out of it..... well two times I grabbed the shifter and went to put the clutch in (witch my auto doesn't have) jabbing the brakes with the shifter in my hand........ hand moves shifter to R, engine stalls, back wheels lock up solid, try not to die slideing off the road. not fun....
 
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