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Discussion starter · #21 ·
tdogg74 said:
FYI....

If your timing was off, you would have a CEL. (P0341) If anything, it would either studder and backfire and/or power delivery would be limited. Limp mode puts you into a batch-fire situation, so mpg's would suffer, but not on the scale you are experiencing.

Worn plugs, cap, or rotor...while this could lead to poor mpg as well, certainly NOT on the scale you're at right now.

Get a new MAF and O2 sensor and be done with it. High mileage engines need them replaced anyway.
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forgot to mention when the car is cold i do not have the problem

when i take it out the garage to go to meets...etc i can drive the first 5-10 miles without any hesitation then BOOM it switches over to limp mode

my CEL used to flash ( when off i had full power and when on limp mode)
 
#23 ·
Jayy said:
forgot to mention when the car is cold i do not have the problem

when i take it out the garage to go to meets...etc i can drive the first 5-10 miles without any hesitation then BOOM it switches over to limp mode

my CEL used to flash ( when off i had full power and when on limp mode)
Click to expand...

wait... Limp mode? Do you have an auto trans, that's kicking into Limp mode (ie stuck in 2nd gear) or is this just what you're calling what your car does (and not actually talking about an auto trans' limp mode?)
 
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#24 ·
When you start the engine (cold start), the ECU runs the car in open loop until the O2 sensor heats up properly, and then goes into closed loop under normal driving and open loop under load. If your O2 sensor is toast, when you warm up and start going into closed loop, your ECU is not reading the fueling correctly and will destroy your MPGs. The ECU relies on the O2 for correct mixture and if its not sending the proper voltage to the ECU, you get....well...6mpg.

Another culprit could be your CTS. If its shot, then the ECU reads a pre-determined temperature (68*F I think). It would be the same as disconnecting it, per say. But even that, I don't think, would kill you mpg's that severely.

Im done here though....good luck getting it fixed. :thumbup:
 
#25 ·
Twice I've seen my cel flash in the moisture with lack of power. Lasted about a second each time. I Dielectric greased my plugs/coil it's never happened again. vr6 however, same physics can apply. Hope that's the issue.

It is freakin humid out there :mad:
 
#26 · (Edited)
:facepalm: He is having a fueling problem. Not an ignition problem.

Jayy said:
My jetta has been having a "sluggish" feeling for sometime and i struggles to accelerate and is buring more gas than my VR use to and ive replaced everything that i thought could be the problem and still nothing has changed here is a list of things ive replaced recently

its a 1995 2.0

everything is OEM ( exluding the test pipe)

pcv valve
pcv grommet
all vaccum lines
spark plugs
new distributor cap
new rotor
2.5 test pipe (thought it could be a clogged cat)
spark plug wires
fuel filter

any thoughts ??

i hear it could be my distributor timing is off but id rather ask before i continue buying parts :beer::beer:
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#27 ·
Humm didn't see had new rotor.

Did fuel spit under some pressure when you changed the filter? Or did it just drip drip. Still doubt it's a bad pump. Says it's fine for a while then it happens.
 
#28 · (Edited)
rankadoodle said:
That's the vtec :facepalm:
.
Click to expand...
more like kinetic stage 3 ;) :heart:

if your check engine light flashed you should be able to pull those codes...more then likely misfire codes tho.
 
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#32 ·
Jayy said:
i thought it was something Major not something as simple as that

since my daily driver has ALOT more mileage and ive never had an issues with it

but problem solved

tdogg feel free to lock this up
Click to expand...
good ****, glad it's running well
 
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