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Hubbles13

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm rebuilding a G60 to put in my mk2 gti. I need a piston for the engine, and ive got an 8v 1.8l gti for parts. I havnt taken apart the engine on the parts car yet, but im wondering if the pistons from the 8v will work in the G60 where theyre both 1.8l?
 
I'm rebuilding a G60 to put in my mk2 gti. I need a piston for the engine, and ive got an 8v 1.8l gti for parts. I havnt taken apart the engine on the parts car yet, but im wondering if the pistons from the 8v will work in the G60 where theyre both 1.8l?
get yourself some custom pistons, and leave the stock ones in a corner

they are notorious for failing due to preignition etc on the g60 (which is common since many don't know what they are doing)

unfortunatley i don't got etka in this computer at the moment, so can't double check the piston part numbers, but from what i recall, they do have different part numbers (due to oilsquirters in the PG engine)

not too sure of the rest of the design tho
 
They are different, however stock G60 pistons are just cast pistons, with a slightyl thicker crown then standard 8v pistons.

The difference has nothing to do with the oil squirters, it has to do with the length of the rod and the wrist pin placement (due to the thicker crown, it's lower and thus G60 rods are shorter).

-Depending what block you have in the corner since various compression came on the 1.8 8v from 8.5:1 up to 10:1. You can take the connecting rod and piston as a unit and install them into the G60 block just fine. a light hone (even a home job as long your G60 block doesn't have a ridge at the top, is fine, if it has a ridge it pretty much has to go into a machine shop) add new rings and con road bearings and all will be fine.

-The other option is to use the whole block in the corner as is, if it's a nice low KM unit. This saves you new rings, and machine work,(but still put in new con rod bearings, they are cheap and G60's are hard on them) all you have to do for modifications is drill out on of the front threaded standoffs to accept the G-laders oil return line. (it's already the right thread) With the oil pan off, it's super easy and takes like 2 mins of your time, just use a drill bit a size or 2 under the thread so as to not damage it. If you use a standard 8v block you loose the oil squirters, but that's it. You use the other standoff to bolt the knock sensor to.

all 1.8 8v Counter flow cranks are forged, G60 or normal 8v. same.


Now back to compression, I've been running a 1.8, 8.5:1 normal 8v bottom end under my G60 now for 2 years. With 17psi and a 55hp shot, and it still puts down 150psi compression across the board every time I check it. Just like it did the very first day. I would personally would have no qualms about even using something as high as say 9.5:1 (that's where 1.8T's stock are)

So yeah your call really, but those are some options to consider.

Oh yeah and G60 heads are essentially just GTi (big valve) heads off the high compression engines, like from GTi's and 8v GLi's, Carat's etc. But I have personally noticed the G60 ports are nicer finished from the factory (not bigger, just less casting marks left), and G60 heads have sodium filled exhaust valves. But the valves and stems are the same size. Also of course a G60 cam is unique to the G60.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I have totally torn everything apart, got new g60 pistons and rods etc, and it turns out that my block is out of round (.025). Going to teat the 8v apart and see if i can use the block from that, it's only got 130k on it. The G60 block has quite a ridge on it after i've honed it, which means it needs to be bored, which means different pistons. I just got my g-lader rebuild kit so I'm going to try to use the 8v block
 
I'm not sure what you mean by standoffs.
The parts of the block that are built up and machined to hold a bolt. (they "stand off" the block) Used for knock sensor, charger oil drain, rear motor mount bolts, etc.

This is not my picture, but they have 2 of the stand offs circled, discussing where to put the knock sensor.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I actually ended up buying a B3 Syncro. But I found a complete G60 as well, so I've got three G60's complete with G-Lader's now. That should be enough to make at least one good engine haha
 
I have a box of good used G60 pistons here....
We sell a set every now and again.
The G60 piston has a nice dish for correct boost squish band and the scavenger boss....also keeps detonation down.
 
Audi used the same piston size as g60. VWMS used them in 1H blocks. Anyone know off hand what motor they came out of?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just posted a new thread asking a cross pollination engine questions and this post has answered them all, Bravo!


They are different, however stock G60 pistons are just cast pistons, with a slightyl thicker crown then standard 8v pistons.

The difference has nothing to do with the oil squirters, it has to do with the length of the rod and the wrist pin placement (due to the thicker crown, it's lower and thus G60 rods are shorter).

-Depending what block you have in the corner since various compression came on the 1.8 8v from 8.5:1 up to 10:1. You can take the connecting rod and piston as a unit and install them into the G60 block just fine. a light hone (even a home job as long your G60 block doesn't have a ridge at the top, is fine, if it has a ridge it pretty much has to go into a machine shop) add new rings and con road bearings and all will be fine.

-The other option is to use the whole block in the corner as is, if it's a nice low KM unit. This saves you new rings, and machine work,(but still put in new con rod bearings, they are cheap and G60's are hard on them) all you have to do for modifications is drill out on of the front threaded standoffs to accept the G-laders oil return line. (it's already the right thread) With the oil pan off, it's super easy and takes like 2 mins of your time, just use a drill bit a size or 2 under the thread so as to not damage it. If you use a standard 8v block you loose the oil squirters, but that's it. You use the other standoff to bolt the knock sensor to.

all 1.8 8v Counter flow cranks are forged, G60 or normal 8v. same.


Now back to compression, I've been running a 1.8, 8.5:1 normal 8v bottom end under my G60 now for 2 years. With 17psi and a 55hp shot, and it still puts down 150psi compression across the board every time I check it. Just like it did the very first day. I would personally would have no qualms about even using something as high as say 9.5:1 (that's where 1.8T's stock are)

So yeah your call really, but those are some options to consider.

Oh yeah and G60 heads are essentially just GTi (big valve) heads off the high compression engines, like from GTi's and 8v GLi's, Carat's etc. But I have personally noticed the G60 ports are nicer finished from the factory (not bigger, just less casting marks left), and G60 heads have sodium filled exhaust valves. But the valves and stems are the same size. Also of course a G60 cam is unique to the G60.
 
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