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G60 over cooling , low engine t emp when on highway.

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vwscream

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Been driving the G60 as a daily. My temp stay between 160-170 when going down the road. When sitting temp will be steady 180. This is affecting my engine temp.
Fan is not running meaning operates normal and temp got better after tstat replacement. Unfortunately I developed a leak today in the coolant clamp so will address it but the temp issues have been going on prior leak. Any other areas to look at? Unless I have two bad thermostats back to back I'm not touching them. They were from a know good source. I can see one being bad but two is hard. If my leak require draining I'll swap a third one in to.make people happy.:)

new:
2nd thermostat.
Water pump
Heater core
Pressure cap
Temp sensor

Big not is when I gvo over 70 MPH the temp starts to go over170 by a bit.

Failure found: water pump. Read bellow for full story.
 
#2 ·
I have a 180 temp t-stat and a brand new water pump, and my temps are between 165-175 and my car drives just fine. What exactly is your problem? Maybe your o2 sensor is shot or now grounded well enough to figure out the mixture issue and adjust as needed...
 
#3 ·
Could be worse, overheating.
At those temps, you should be running pig rich, constant like.
Have you verified those are actually the coolant temps?
Is your gauge sensor accurate?
Regardless if the thermostat is stuck wide open, the engine will eventually reach operating temp if you leave it running long enough.
Feel the upper, lower radiator hoses for heat. Turn your heater on high and feel the feed lines for the core at the firewall.
A *new* thermostat means very little unless you verify it works before installing it.
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well my problem is not overheating, not worried about that. I should add that the temp sensor is newer and so is the O2. All hoses get warm and even hot to the touch. When left to idle after driving on the highway for 5min the temp will reach 180 and heater output is where it should be. Soon as you start driving the temp on the gauge drops and cab heat is less.There is lower cabin heat out put then expected when compared to my mk2. Engine has all newer sensor. If I'm running rich I can see by checking what MPG I'm getting at next fill up. Gauge is good after comparing with IR and resistance.

To add my mk2 is a diesel and it will be hot inside the cab even with it just idling. For those who may not know dsl does not warm up till under load and that adds to me digging into the G60.
 
#6 ·
What shape is your heater core in? It either sounds like you have poor flow to the core or something else is all fkd up. My temps are in the 170s with a 180 tstat and new pump and flushed and filled with oem green vw stuff. Heat works just fine..
 
#10 · (Edited)
Stock water temp is 195.
You have a new water pump, heater core, and thermostat.
Your car is cooling efficiently. What's the problem?

Are the flaps working correctly on your heater box? Did you redo the coverings on them when the heater core was done?
If your cabin heat decreases with speed; it's from outside air getting past your flaps, mixing with the heated air.
The engine temp decreases because air is moving through the radiator, perfectly normal.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
foam was redone. I have the ac s.unplugged and when on recirculated and the heat along with temp hoes down. Hi can have the engine at 800rpms not moving and set the fan at 2 and watch as the temp drop
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
8vbunny said:
Ok let's put this to bed. Your thermostat stays open most likely and your heater box flaps are probably without foam on them.
Click to expand...
Heater foam was replaced. That's not it. I'll go a head and swap in a third new thermostat. These are or and not cheap knockoffs. Only had one new tstat be bad out of the box in history
.
 
#15 ·
vwscream said:
Heater foam was replaced. That's not it. I'll go a head and swap in a third new thermostat. These are or and not cheap knockoffs. Only had one new tstat be bad out of the box in history
.
Click to expand...
In the history of what, the world, vortex, vw in general? Get it together. Parts will always be bad. You said you had a leak, if your system leaks it cannot build pressure therefore it cannot get hot enough and operate properly. Fix your leak, drive the car then report back. No pressure = no heat end of story.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
8vbunny said:
In the history of what, the world, vortex, vw in general? Get it together. Parts will always be bad. You said you had a leak, if your system leaks it cannot build pressure therefore it cannot get hot enough and operate properly. Fix your leak, drive the car then report back. No pressure = no heat end of story.
Click to expand...
Parts are parts and they can fail but even my luck can't be that bad to have 2 new stats fail. The leak developed last night and the issue with low engine temp was there earlier. Want to get my things lined up to take care of the leak and overcooling at the same time.
 
#18 ·
If the leak developed that means the t-stat is working now and that you developed pressure and that is why now you don't have heat. Fix the leak. when the system all works the way it is supposed to, the hoses will be hot and hard due to the pressure. Like I said before, no pressure no heat, no efficient way for the system to work. VW cooling systems, like any other water cooled cars, need pressure to work properly.
 
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vwscream
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