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Golf R Is Acting Up! Help!

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#21 ·
Brandon16Flores said:
So the problem is fixed. I went to Pep Boys to get the clamp for the intake and showed one of the employees a pic of the intake and he looked at me like I was stupid. If you look at the pic I posted earlier, THAT CLAMP IN THE PICTURE IS THE ONE, it was just moved over, not popped off! So I secured it back into place. My only concern now is that I am not getting near as good of throttle response as I used to. I thought it was me at first but I confirmed it when I drove my friend's R. Now what? Tune Issue? Reflash?
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You can see that the clamp travelled down. There's even a band mark where it should be and in the photo the bottom of the clamp isn't touching.
 
#22 ·
Brandon16Flores said:
So the problem is fixed. I went to Pep Boys to get the clamp for the intake and showed one of the employees a pic of the intake and he looked at me like I was stupid. If you look at the pic I posted earlier, THAT CLAMP IN THE PICTURE IS THE ONE, it was just moved over, not popped off! So I secured it back into place. My only concern now is that I am not getting near as good of throttle response as I used to. I thought it was me at first but I confirmed it when I drove my friend's R. Now what? Tune Issue? Reflash?
Click to expand...
How many miles have you driven the car after the incident.

Try clearing your codes, even if there isnt any. But before you do so, post your fuel trim info.

You have an intake known to be a problem, and an intake leak on top of it could have fudged your FT values even more.
 
#23 ·
Brandon16Flores said:
My only concern now is that I am not getting near as good of throttle response as I used to. I thought it was me at first but I confirmed it when I drove my friend's R. Now what? Tune Issue? Reflash?
Click to expand...
Get somebody with VAG-COM to clear the codes and reset adaptations.
 
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#25 ·
Tranzit said:
I like you. No man love though. You are a guy right? :p
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Ha ha. Yeah I'm a dude bro. Contrary to what most people on this forum think, I'm pretty knowledgeable. Could even let a certain tuner on here know why they don't hold power in higher RPMs as well as some others ;). It's just not the "factory" way of doing things and I used that crappy vag-com thing for my findings...
 
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#26 ·
GTIVRon said:
Ha ha. Yeah I'm a dude bro. Contrary to what most people on this forum think, I'm pretty knowledgeable. Could even let a certain tuner on here know why they don't hold power in higher RPMs as well as some others ;). It's just not the "factory" way of doing things and I used that crappy vag-com thing for my findings...
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Junk that vagcom. It useless, the resolution sucks on it.
I live my life one vagcom log at a time :p

Oh, I do think your more knowledgable than most on here. :beer:
 
#27 ·
GenMan said:
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-T-Bolt-Hose-Clamps/744065/10002/-1


I am thinking of going with this style for my intercooler and air filter connections. We use this style at my work on the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) aka intercooler
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No reason to use tbolts on the pre turbo side of the induction piping. There is no pressure, only vacuum. I would guess that the clamp on the OP's car wasn't very tight to begin with and engine vibrations and movements loosened it to the point of coming off. As evidence that it was able to fall down the silicon hose.
 
#28 ·
rlab said:
No reason to use tbolts on the pre turbo side of the induction piping. There is no pressure, only vacuum. I would guess that the clamp on the OP's car wasn't very tight to begin with and engine vibrations and movements loosened it to the point of coming off. As evidence that it was able to fall down the silicon hose.
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I'd call into evidence that it loosened up to begin with.... Look at how friggen big that silicon hose is compared to the hard pipe :eek:
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
Alright so I went to my local tuner shop and they did a diagnostic on my car and it threw these codes



The guy said erasing them would not solve the problem and that I should take the car to the same people that flashed the ECU. When I texted my guy who does the tunes, he said that these codes could not have sprouted from an intake issue.
 
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#31 ·
Those could have come from as the car was low-revving right before dying. I'm willing to bet a few times the idle would go down, be rough, pop up a bit, alternator light might have flashed once or twice, then died and solid alternator light.

Clear the codes and see what happens.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
GTIVRon said:
Those could have come from as the car was low-revving right before dying. I'm willing to bet a few times the idle would go down, be rough, pop up a bit, alternator light might have flashed once or twice, then died and solid alternator light.

Clear the codes and see what happens.
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And once again your exactly on point, they are getting cleared tomorrow, thanks lol
 
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#34 ·
i would not recommend driving around with 0 gas.... the lpfp will suck up debris from the fuel tank and it will break.... also could be the reason for your fuel level sensor code
 
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
then how am i suppose to run 100 oct, you know, all of the previous gas must be drained to do so...
 
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#36 ·
Brandon16Flores said:
then how am i suppose to run 100 oct, you know, all of the previous gas must be drained to do so...
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I didn't check.. but his post might be dated from 1960s... Modern cars have filters on the lift pumps.
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
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#40 · (Edited)
GTIVRon said:
I didn't check.. but his post might be dated from 1960s... Modern cars have filters on the lift pumps.
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starving fuel pumps is not good for them either, and i doubt the op was on the way to go fill up with race gas. Also, i always thought intank pumps have pickup screens and filters are post pump, but i guess i don't know any better.
 
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GTIVRon
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