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CCTA and intake manifold flap position Code P2015

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#21 ·
I applaude your honesty in a public forum. We won't think less of your technical ability. :D

To date, you're the second known to have a mis-seated connector or one just unplug. The only two to come forward at least. Lol

Glad you worked it out. Now go WOT and enjoy the work and time you out into it.

-Patrick
 
#22 ·
steelcurtain said:
I applaude your honesty in a public forum. We won't think less of your technical ability. :D

To date, you're the second known to have a mis-seated connector or one just unplug. The only two to come forward at least. Lol

Glad you worked it out. Now go WOT and enjoy the work and time you out into it.

-Patrick
Click to expand...
Pretty sure I was the first. I remember taking it out, it ran like **** and I was so tired following the the job I said #uck it I'm going to sleep. As I'm lying there going through the steps in my head... Boom cylinder 1 fuel injector forgot to plug it in ran out in my boxers and fired her up! :D

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 
#23 ·
onevrsix said:
Pretty sure I was the first. I remember taking it out, it ran like **** and I was so tired following the the job I said #uck it I'm going to sleep. As I'm lying there going through the steps in my head... Boom cylinder 1 fuel injector forgot to plug it in ran out in my boxers and fired her up! :D

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Love the boxers part. Sounds like same **** I would do.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
sdezego said:
..
With only 45k, I was shocked to see the buildup of thick gunk on the flaps, diverter plates, head ports and valves. I literally spent 2 hours cleaning this stuff out...

I guess a catch can might be a good investment. The car is completely stock and meticulously maintained... FYI
Click to expand...
Bumping my old thread from the dead for an update. Intake code has not returned, but due to other issues I went to clean the ports again and do Injectors. :eek:

at 89k miles Total (exactly 45 k miles again), I am shocked again at the buildup. Would have been great as a test if I had built a Catch Can solution...

I changed the intake again just for general principle while I was in there. Never threw that code again and I am sure I didn't need to change it, but...

I will post pics of the ports as I did take a lot of them this time.

Also, I know there are other threads since this one, but I just want to state again that you can get superb results of cleaning the ports with proper chemicals and some elbow grease.

I will port the pics and Round 2 port cleaning details in a bit.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
sdezego said:
I will post the pics and Round 2 port cleaning details in a bit.
Click to expand...
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility for anyone trying to follow what I did below in any way.

The First Time I did the port cleaning at 45kmi, I tried a few different Carb cleaners, etc. Some are just mostly Acetone, which does absolutely NOTHING for this buildup. However, Berryman's (pictured below) is the biz.

What I used:

  • Berryman's Carb Cleaner (2-3 cans)
  • Some Mechanics scribes, Dental tools, etc
  • small round brisstle brush (parts Cleaner)
  • Shop vac with a piece of ~5/16 thin wall plastic tube (can use various)



  1. First, I removed the divider plates and put in a very small tub, sprayed carb cleaner and covered to soak.
  2. Then I made sure to stuff rags in ports not being cleaned. Then started with Cyl 1. MAKE SURE VALVES ARE CLOSED on each cyl before doing anything. I used a socket on the Crank pulley to ease the motor to each cyl I was going to clean.
  3. You can either Spray some Berryman's in the ports for the cyl you are working on and fill them up and let it soak for about 15 min+ or perform an initial scaling first. The Later will save you some money in cleaner as you will need to do a few iterations regardless.
  4. Use your Shop vac with the thin plastic hose stuffed in the shop vac hose and a rag to seal it off. Use the thin plastic hose end to suck the crap out of the ports. Dirty Carb cleaner and all, but be careful as the stuff is very flammable
  5. Iterate with the picks, etc and shop vac
  6. Fill the ports with cleaner, let soak for a few and use the parts brush to clean the final. You will need to do this a few times if you want it perfect. Just suck the crap out with the vac each time
  7. repeat for each cyl making sure the valves are closed before working in that cyl and that all other ports are blocked off. Turn the motor very slowly by the crank of you could suck in a rag etc.


Pics (click to enlarge)

The only stuff I recommend. ..other stuff is a waste of time. Ventilation and nitrile gloves is you have delicate skin :p




I use blue tape on all connectors etc, so I don;t forgot to plug any back in afterward.



Injectors after 89k miles... :eek: poor focus I know, but look at second from left to get idea.




Just started the initial scaling




Scaling, round 2







Just about done




Final. about an hour and a half of tedious work..




I guess the pics and details are just a few years late, but Enjoy :)
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Sales@DBCPerformance said:
GM Top Cleaner works magic too.... We do a lot of these at the shop (both TSI intake replacement and/or intake port cleaning.
Click to expand...
:thumbup: I saw that in the other thread after I posted all this. I am curious as to price and effectiveness of both as a comparison. Could probably look at the MSDS on both and compare...

That Berryman works awesome, but you have to watch as it packs quite a buz :D
 
#29 ·
Intake manifold/Injector warranty extensions

I am throwing the same code and was doing some searching and I found a post in the Golf/GTI VI forum that said...

Volkswagen has extended the Emissions Control Systems Warranty for the intake manifold under specific
conditions to 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s original in-service date,
for certain 2008 – 2011 Model Year Volkswagen 2.0 TFSI Engine vehicles with engine codes CBFA and
CCTA.

Volkswagen has extended the Emissions Control Systems Warranty for fuel injector replacement under
specific conditions to 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s original inservice
date, for certain 2008 – 2011 Model Year Volkswagen 2.0 TFSI Engine vehicles with engine codes
CBFA and CCTA.

I took my 2009 VW CC in and they agreed that it will be covered under warranty for 120k miles of 2018, whichever comes first. Saves me a weekend of work and the money for the parts.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6118285-Intake-manifold-Injector-warranty-extensions&p=86182199&posted=1#post86182199
 
#30 ·
P2015 Manifold Assembly

My 2011 VW GTI threw a code P2015 and when I took it to my mechanic he looked it up on ALLDATA and they reported that VW extended the warranty for this. My car has over 90k on it so I was very pleased when I took it to the dealership and they repaired it at no cost.

I happened to peak at the invoice and it showed that it was a $606 fix. They replaced the entire assembly which included the manifold sensor. So if you have this problem call you dealer first because after reading some of the post I was going to attempt to fix myself. After watching a couple of you tube videos I decided against it.

Hope this helps!

7 Year and 120,000 miles is what I was told btw...
 
#31 ·
Just posting to confirm the extended coverage on this - it happened to our '08 Passat Wagon 2.0 TSI at 90K miles and they replaced the intake at no cost, although they did recommend (and we paid for) a carbon cleaning at the same time. (Considering a PCV catch can to prevent this in the future).

I was about to buy the intake manifold online and on a whim called our local dealership to see if they had it in stock and if they would come close to the online pricing. He ran our VIN and said to bring it in - if the problem checked out it would be covered under the extended service bulletin - up to 10 yrs or 120K miles.
 
#32 ·
2012 VW cc intake manifold

Full disclosure, I don't know anything about cars but need help! A check engine light came on and I took my 2012 VW cc to a mechanic (not the dealer). When he told me the part should be under warrenty I then said I would take it to the dealer. Unfortunately, the mechanic reset the code and the dealer can't replace it without the code being triggered again. Do you know how I can trigger the code needed??
 
#34 ·
buckeyes said:
Full disclosure, I don't know anything about cars but need help! A check engine light came on and I took my 2012 VW cc to a mechanic (not the dealer). When he told me the part should be under warrenty I then said I would take it to the dealer. Unfortunately, the mechanic reset the code and the dealer can't replace it without the code being triggered again. Do you know how I can trigger the code needed??
Click to expand...
Mine popped this code for the first time (since I've had it - IM was replaced under warranty by the PO) a few weeks ago and I cleared it and it stayed off for a few days but came back. You may just need to complete the readiness cycle. Drive it for a week and it will probably come back. Once it gets bad enough, it will come back almost instantly.
 
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#35 ·
sdezego said:
Bumping my old thread from the dead for an update. Intake code has not returned, but due to other issues I went to clean the ports again and do Injectors. :eek:

at 89k miles Total (exactly 45 k miles again), I am shocked again at the buildup. Would have been great as a test if I had built a Catch Can solution...

I changed the intake again just for general principle while I was in there. Never threw that code again and I am sure I didn't need to change it, but...

I will post pics of the ports as I did take a lot of them this time.

Also, I know there are other threads since this one, but I just want to state again that you can get superb results of cleaning the ports with proper chemicals and some elbow grease.

I will port the pics and Round 2 port cleaning details in a bit.
Click to expand...
Go water meth... never look back;)
 
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