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pghmk7

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
How do you wash/detail your MK7 GTIs?

Hello, everyone.

I will be receiving my GTI order in September and wanted to start fresh on how I take care of my car. Today, I just use one bucket with sponges and normal towels. I know this sounds terrifying and I hope to remedy this.

What I'm looking into:
  • Two Bucket Method with Grit Guards. Maybe this one.
  • A car mit. Never had one. Anyone have suggestions?
  • Microfiber towels? Again anyone a big fan of one or another?
  • ICE Liquid Wax
  • ICE Spray Wax for a second coat.
  • Toothbrush for behind the rims?

I will be getting the white GTI, and would really like to keep the paint looking like there's glass over top of it. I'm looking to learn as much as possible from you guys.

What do you use on your GTI's? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Looks like you are going the right direction in your selections for the most part.

My German made Mk VI TDI is Candy White and has a very thick clear coat on it. I have used a Porter Cable
random orbital buffer on it a few times to help really smooth out the paint and it has paid off well in a smooth shiny
coat of paint.

I have been SO busy this year that my annual strip/buff/polish/ and wax had to wait till this weekend. My poor TDI really needed this so this was the weekend.

Now I used to use the Ice Wax because it is so simple to use. Glides on easy, and comes off so easy. But...I have gone back to carnuba natural waxes because I like the gloss and shine better. Actually, after using the glaze with the buffer I doubt that I could have much more shine, and most detailers will tell ya the same thing.

I use my wax as a protectant for the shine. My TDI sits out 365 days a year. It's my everyday driver and it gets abused that way. My daily commute is 60 miles total on NY State roads that are currently in a state of re-construction. That means lots of road tar, bumps, dirt, grit.

After 4 years of abuse and almost 60K miles, the car shows VERY well and looks a lot better than the miles show.

But....My advice is to find what works for you, use the product YOU feel comfortable with. Go to car shows and ask what folks use for the results you want.

I am a Store Manager for one of the larger Auto Parts Stores. I make recommendations all the time in regard to detailing. For most folks, my go to Wax is the Ice Wax. Hard to go wrong with that.

Microfiber.....I buy 24 packs at my local Warehouse store ie.. Sam's Club. I use about 8 to 10 on my TDI. Basically one per every major panel of the car. I have not really seen a quality difference at least in the one's I buy. Only tip here is if you wash them, cold water, soap and NO FABRIC Softner. As they age the fibers start getting left behind, so when you notice this that is the time to retire them to other duties or get rid of them. One package of 24 lasts me about 1 year.

Be careful with tooth brushes. They can scratch even the clearcoat on the rims so be careful of them. When I do my tire rotations, I use the Eagle One spray cleaner both inside and on the outside of the rim. Of course my stock rims are only run till the first threat of Winter. Then the dedicated Snows on Steel rims go on. Road salt/ Calcium Chloride really takes a toll on Aluminum rims probably due to the lack of proper maintenance in the Winter months.

Look at some of the Detailing forums. Look up a guy's video's with name Junkman2000. I've learned a lot form his videos and techniques.

I hope some of this helps!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
ang1sgt said:
Looks like you are going the right direction in your selections for the most part.

My German made Mk VI TDI is Candy White and has a very thick clear coat on it. I have used a Porter Cable
random orbital buffer on it a few times to help really smooth out the paint and it has paid off well in a smooth shiny
coat of paint.

I have been SO busy this year that my annual strip/buff/polish/ and wax had to wait till this weekend. My poor TDI really needed this so this was the weekend.

Now I used to use the Ice Wax because it is so simple to use. Glides on easy, and comes off so easy. But...I have gone back to carnuba natural waxes because I like the gloss and shine better. Actually, after using the glaze with the buffer I doubt that I could have much more shine, and most detailers will tell ya the same thing.

I use my wax as a protectant for the shine. My TDI sits out 365 days a year. It's my everyday driver and it gets abused that way. My daily commute is 60 miles total on NY State roads that are currently in a state of re-construction. That means lots of road tar, bumps, dirt, grit.

After 4 years of abuse and almost 60K miles, the car shows VERY well and looks a lot better than the miles show.

But....My advice is to find what works for you, use the product YOU feel comfortable with. Go to car shows and ask what folks use for the results you want.

I am a Store Manager for one of the larger Auto Parts Stores. I make recommendations all the time in regard to detailing. For most folks, my go to Wax is the Ice Wax. Hard to go wrong with that.

Microfiber.....I buy 24 packs at my local Warehouse store ie.. Sam's Club. I use about 8 to 10 on my TDI. Basically one per every major panel of the car. I have not really seen a quality difference at least in the one's I buy. Only tip here is if you wash them, cold water, soap and NO FABRIC Softner. As they age the fibers start getting left behind, so when you notice this that is the time to retire them to other duties or get rid of them. One package of 24 lasts me about 1 year.

Be careful with tooth brushes. They can scratch even the clearcoat on the rims so be careful of them. When I do my tire rotations, I use the Eagle One spray cleaner both inside and on the outside of the rim. Of course my stock rims are only run till the first threat of Winter. Then the dedicated Snows on Steel rims go on. Road salt/ Calcium Chloride really takes a toll on Aluminum rims probably due to the lack of proper maintenance in the Winter months.

Look at some of the Detailing forums. Look up a guy's video's with name Junkman2000. I've learned a lot form his videos and techniques.

I hope some of this helps!
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. Your response was just what I was looking for. My car will also sit outside 365 and I do not mind working hard with wax. I will definitely look into some traditional waxes to protect a little bit better.

Thanks again!
 
#4 ·
This is great information that I was wondering about earlier today. I'm in the same situation as you guys, car outside year-round (unless the girlfriend gives up her covered parking when I visit), and with this being my first brand-new car I really want to keep it looking fantastic. Thanks so much!
 
#6 ·
This is what I already have waiting for when I buy mine

two buckets w/ grit guard
Duragloss
wool mitt
homemade foam gun
mild clay with spray lube
Daytonsa speed brush
Sonax full effect
Meg's 205
PC7424XP w/ various pads
Cquartz protection kit w/ ironx
Cquartz wheel
Cobra micro fibers
Poorboy's natural look
Pinnacle Leather care
Still looking into a window coat and tire anti shine/sling
 
#7 ·
one wash bucket
one rinse buckect
wool mitt for washing
one microfiber towel for washing wheels
one microfiber towel for drying body
one for wheels
mothers clay bar system
klasse high gloss sealant
mothers Brazilian carnauba wax
 
#9 ·
Hi noob, you've gotten good advice here already but I'll chime in since I have lots of experience detailing high end cars. I like 2 wool mitts. they are deep and if some contaminant is picked up, the depth can save your paint a scratch as light as it may be. microfiber mitts are OK as are sponges but not as good in my opinion. Use microfiber cloths and towels for detailing and drying.

I start with a thorough wash using two buckets. grit guard is good but not essential unless you are doing more than one car. Use two or three large microfiber towels to dry your car. A good wheel cleaner like PS21 is great for the wheels. Use a separate mitt or sponge and wheel brush (for getting in between the spokes and behind them) for them. No toothbrush. You will scratch the wheels.

Clay the paint with detailing spray unless it needs compounding (which it shouldn't for quite a while). This will leave your paint perfectly smooth and just right for polishing.

Use microfiber cloths after claying to remove the residue as you go along.

Polish the paint. I have had excellent results with Meguiars Crystal Polish. A dual action orbital is great for this as someone else mentioned. After polishing and using microfibers to wipe it down you will be ready for waxing. Carnuba is my preference but it will not last as long as silicone based waxes. It does look better though. Again you can use the dual action polisher to apply the wax and then wipe off with microfiber cloths.

Any residue can be wiped off with a good detailing spray and microfiber cloths.

Don't forget to wash you microfiber cloths used for washing (probably not the ones used for polishing and waxing) with free and clear detergents when you're done. Hand wash the Lambswool mitts.

I forgot to mention it is imperative to rinse sections of your car thoroughly as you wash it. don't let the suds sit for any period of time (say a few minutes - no more than 10 and never in the sun).

Hope this helps.
 
#10 ·
Ensuring white paint doesn't go dull includes removing any iron deposits. IronX is great, if you look at my thread you'll see it action. But for a new car:

Paint

The keys:
1. Nothing touches the paint that touched the ground without being thoroughly washed.
2.If it looks dirty, don't use it.
3. Nothing is dragged along the surface unless its amazingly smooth or lubricated with quick detailer or wash solution.

2 Bucket method with 2 grit guards,
soft microfiber mitt or sheepskin
Good quality car soap, I love Meguiar's Gold Class (NO DAWN, it strip the oils and makes trim look dull)
Iron X! especially if it's white. Dont want to see rust spots down the road.
Clay if you need it initially, Mothers makes a good clay which IMO is a tad better than Meguiar's kit
Dried with a quality microfiber towels with the smoothing out method (lay towel down and "smooth" it down soaking up the water so you're not dragging anything around)
Sealed with a good quality sealant and topped with a nice carnauba.

Since your car is going to be sitting outside, I recommend Collinite 845. It lasts as long as a sealant, but glows like a carnauba. It's made for boats and can handle tough salt-water, making it extremely durable and also perfect for the winter.


Wheels
a Daytona Speed Brush is an amazing tool. gets all the barrels clean.
Also a good face brush that you can stick in the wheel wells are nice too.
Good quality wheel cleaner as well makes the job easier.

Trim can be taken care of with 303, or I use the Wolfgang exterior trim sealant and it has lasted a good while.

A good read is http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html
Where I learned all my stuff, and also fueled the addiction :]
 
#11 · (Edited)
How do you wash/detail your MK7 GTIs?

Two bucket method
Megs Gold Class Shampoo
Megs waffle weave towels to dry
Clay Magic Clay Bar
Megs #21 Sealant
1z Einszett Cockpit Premium on the inside
Stoner Invisible Glass
Armor All on tires (still the standard IMO)
Sonax Wheel Cleaner
Speedy Metal Polish for exhaust tips

...a bunch of other products I can't think of. If there are two to recommend, Megs #21 Sealant and any 1z product. The sealant goes on very sparingly and a coat will quite honestly last 6-8 months. I still have some in a bottle I bought 8 years ago. 1z are the best interior and trim products I've ever used.

Oh and if you can get your hands on them 3M Perfect-It microfiber towels. NOT cheap but they are the softest and highest quality I've ever used. They will not shed fibers and are feather soft even after dozens of washes.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#13 · (Edited)
I start by rinsing off as much sand/dirt/grime as I can, making sure to get all areas of the car nice and wet. Always helps when the paint is cool and in the shade so soap doesn't dry on it. I use a microfiber wash mitt with Turtle Wax Ice soap and wash the car gently, rinsing the wash mitt and the car regularly as I go. (Admittedly, I need to begin using the two bucket method).

Once the main panels are washed and rinsed, I put the wash mitt aside and get a microfiber wheel cleaning sponge and brush to get the faces and crevices of the wheels. Also take this time to scrub the inner fenders with a brush.

I try to avoid using a towel or cloth to dry the car. If I'm just doing a quick wash after work, I'll go for a short drive around the block and let it air dry for the most part. If I'm going more in depth, I use an electric leaf blower to blast the water off the car and out of the panel gaps etc.

I haven't done so yet, but clay barring would be the next logical step if needed. I plan to do this the next time I fully detail the car. After clay, I would lightly wash/rinse the car once more.

From there, I will sometimes use a spray detailer (Turtle Wax Ice or similar), or a spray wax if needed (Eagle One usually). If I'm going into more detail, I will use a nice carnauba cream wax. Or if I'm really detailing the car, I will use Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (sealant), followed by the aforementioned carnauba wax the next day. (The photos I recently posted are taken just after this thorough job).

As for windows, I generally use the same cloth I used for spray detailer/wax. Once its dry, it does a really great job of removing water spots and smudges while also adding a very minimal layer of protection.

Final details include a subtle tire gel and spray detailer/wax on the side skirts and lower moldings. If necessary, I will treat the window trim with black shoe polish (buffed off of course).

And here are the results! http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7005545-Washed-Sealed-Waxed-and-Photographed-)
 
#20 ·
Hey guys lots of interesting methods. I don't see many of you using a good paint polish (like I mentioned above) before sealing/waxing. Done right, that makes a difference in the paints depth and pop. No one else does this?

I may try a sealant when the time comes. They don't reduce the wet look and mirror effect? From my experience a sealant is a silicone based wax which willl last longer but can't deliver the depth of carnuba. Ii guess there's all sorts of combinations but I have always found that carnuba looks better but silicone based wax (sealant) lasts longer. The latter is best for cars that sit outdoors while carnuba is best looks wise if garaged most of the time.
 
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