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#22 ·
iiii said:
No not with vag. There's no simple solution. You should message kompressor on audizine. He's a master bench flasher. He might be able to do it for you. Or you could just get maestro. :rolleyes:
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Exactly what I was going to suggest. :thumbup:

I've been busy over the weekend and didn't have time to reply. With usage established of ECU in original vehicle and emission testing required, I would agree that Maestro is probably your best bet. Or give " Reflected " a PM on the Vortex 1.8T engine Forum for a Custom tune. He's " " Kompressed " on the Audizine forums. I was just talking to him on a custom tune for my AEB the other day.

I probably confused the issue more than I should have with going into the non-read EPROM of the ME 5.92. That is for self tuning the ECU. That is referring to the ability of downloading the COMPLETE ECU raw data file ( the " .bin ) file, then re-writing that file with a hexidecimal editor or programs such as Tuner-Pro or similiar programs. On an ME7 you can download the complete ECU Raw data ( .bin file ) through the OBD-2 port easy as pie. Then you can save, modify and re-flash you modified file to the ECU. On an ME5.92 you can not download the Raw Data ( .bin file ) through the OBD-2 port. You have to desolder it and use a programmer or other methods.


There is open source tuning available for the ME 7 if you know where to look..... NeF__to. :rolleyes: Unfortunately there is no " readily available " open source tuning available for the ME5.92. It's an old ECU and the inability to download the complete " .bin " file hampered open source development somewhat in the early days. Few people work on ME5.92's any more and you need to find someone who is familiar with them.

BTW, just for clarity. When using Maestro it simply flashes the old ME 5.92 " .bin " file with a new one. It's exactly the same procedure as flashing the Bios on your home computer. " Flashing " is not a problem on an ME 5.92 through the OBD-2 port. You can Re-Flash as many times as you want . And Maestro allows you to read and modify different " Memory Blocks " of the " .bin " file. However, reading and changing information in Memory blocks, as Maestro and some other Tuning programs do, is not the same thing as the ability to download the whole .bin file. Not that it really matters a hoot in hell if you're using Maestro as it gives you the ability to manipulate the info that you do need.

The ability to download the COMPLETE " .bin " file is useful only to DIY tuners.... essentially inquisitive ( or cheap ) minds who like to experiment with home brew tunes. ( Which is how Chris Tapp started ) Sorry if I confused things. I hope that clarifies my response a bit :beer:

End of ramble... I tend to do that :facepalm:
 
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#23 · (Edited)
ADKWrench said:
Its a major PITA you say? Fackk!!
I've been debating doing the DBW/ ME7 / wideband conversion..whatever you want to call it on my '98 b5a4 AEB...

I've done reading about how to flash the AEB's 5.92 chip, I've connected to my PCM through VCDS Lite with an ebay blue vag com cable..

Say one was to get ahold of a tune for an AEB..not sure what type of file it would be.. .bin? Say you had the file what program would you use to go about flashing that?

Is a bench flash harness necessary to flash an AEB/5.92?

Seriously i'm rocking a FMIC, MBC, cat delete and an OBX rising rate FPR 15lbs..****s gonna blow up.
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If you have an ME5.92 you should probably just bite the bullet and go with Maestro for your AEB. Or get a custom flash from someone like " Reflected " on this board.

Here's what you have to do with pre-2000 DBC Audi A4 B5 to convert them to ME7 with wideband.

1: Complete ME7 ECU...then a Tune. Ka-ching!!

2: DBW throttle body and electric throttle pedal. Junk yard... pretty easy.

3: Complete Engine harness out of an DBW ME7 A4 B5. No cut wires and all terminals intact. Could be expensive...

4: All of the DBW engine sensors, including WB O2 sensors ( get new ), knock sensors, Coolant sensor, Map sensor, MAF sensor or assembly, IAT sensor, Cam position shutter wheel, 4 wire Ignition coils, later style Valve cover to fit coils ...and probably a few things I've forgotten.

5: Here the killer. Complete DASH Harness and Instrument Cluster. That is the big PITA part. You have to change out all of the under-dash harness and Instrument cluster to get things working and pass emissions testing. ( Unless = Race Car ). It's a HUGE frackin' miserable job :banghead:

There was a group working on a setup to bypass the dash harness and cluster change, but I don't know how development is coming along....
 
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#26 ·
800 bones is a lot to pay for maestro. I am all about choosing options more like bench flashing, but if you look into nefmoto and all that, it seems like a ton of work and what it comes down to is that me3/5 just sucks.
 
#27 ·
vw bumble bee said:
I would love to tuneyself but not sure of the programs I need to do so I have an old aeb Ecu harness to make a bench flasher if needed to but if I could tune over the obd2 port myself that would be awesome
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It's a lot of work on an ME 5.92. It can be done.. but it's much easier just to by Maestro or give " Reflected/Kompressed " a PM.

There's a ton of info on self tuning the ME7. Unfortunately very little on the ME5.92. I'll PM you the info later. Gotta go pick up some parts for my Datsun 280z :D
 
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#28 · (Edited)
iiii said:
800 bones is a lot to pay for maestro. I am all about choosing options more like bench flashing, but if you look into nefmoto and all that, it seems like a ton of work and what it comes down to is that me3/5 just sucks.
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Yeah.. being restricted to NB is sucky. However the DBW feature of the ME7 adds a huge amount of complexity to the programming. An ideal ECU would have DBC and WB in IMHO. Guess that = Stand-alone.

Edit: Unfortunately, stand-alone and modern emissions testing with OBD-2 checks don't mix well. Catch 22 :banghead:

Edit 2: I've looked into DIY tuning of my ME 5.92 and even started work on a bench flasher. Eventually I realized I was just over my head and gave up. Since I bought the 280Z I'm trying not to mess around with the Audi " too " much. Need a reliable DD. May try the ME 5.92 project again down the road. But just as an experiment to see if I can do it.
 
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Where I am there's no good reasonable shops and every shop I've looked at hasn't had the best of reviews either on doing motor work or anything. Right now I don't have the time to do a swap or can I find everything I need. I have an Ecu from a passat now I just need to find everything else.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Looks like me3.8/5.9 maestro is your answer ;) Honestly in my mind it doesn't seem worth the effort if you can be up and running with a single transaction via just buying maestro. You're talking about paying someone to me7 swap correct? Or are you talkiiiing about doing your engine work? Maybe find a connection at an audi dealer for a mechanic to do the work after hours?? Where are you located? Don't have to be very specific if you don't want to. If you're in washington or utah I could help out with that.

Rebuilding an engine for the first time took me about a month ((on a subaru and only a couple hours a day every few days(working and school fulltime)). It's a pain in the ass. I plan to do ie rods and stainless ex valves and would estimate a week at the most. I pray to the audi gods I don't have to wait for any parts after work has begun!!!!:eek: If I made enough i'd pay someone to do it if they had some sort of warranty. If they didn't eff no! I'd do it myself. Getting another block to build is a good idea. You could sell your current block and make back the money from the purchased block. I have been looking, but all i've found is a 1.8t with a broken oil pan that obviously ran out of oil. No warranty. 550$ long block. I'm crossing my fingers a 1.8 shows up at a pull and save that got tboned. Engines are only 105$$.
 
#31 ·
Chickenman, Can't thank you enough for the info that really helped..

when you say custom tune from this Reflected fella..he'd be desoldering the chip, flashing it, soldering it back in?? or like bench flashing it?

Funny you bring that up because I've collected obd and ecu connectors, pc power supply,KKL cable..etc..in hopes of doing my own diy tune..as you can see I never got very far.
 
#32 · (Edited)
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
iiii said:
Looks like me3.8/5.9 maestro is your answer ;) Honestly in my mind it doesn't seem worth the effort if you can be up and running with a single transaction via just buying maestro. You're talking about paying someone to me7 swap correct? Or are you talkiiiing about doing your engine work? Maybe find a connection at an audi dealer for a mechanic to do the work after hours?? Where are you located? Don't have to be very specific if you don't want to. If you're in washington or utah I could help out with that.

Rebuilding an engine for the first time took me about a month ((on a subaru and only a couple hours a day every few days(working and school fulltime)). It's a pain in the ass. I plan to do ie rods and stainless ex valves and would estimate a week at the most. I pray to the audi gods I don't have to wait for any parts after work has begun!!!!:eek: If I made enough i'd pay someone to do it if they had some sort of warranty. If they didn't eff no! I'd do it myself. Getting another block to build is a good idea. You could sell your current block and make back the money from the purchased block. I have been looking, but all i've found is a 1.8t with a broken oil pan that obviously ran out of oil. No warranty. 550$ long block. I'm crossing my fingers a 1.8 shows up at a pull and save that got tboned. Engines are only 105$$.
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I'm in ct. I was talking engine work and the Ecu swap but I have a stage 3 tune now it's just tuned way to rich. I called one shop and if I had all the parts he wanted to charge me $9000 to do the work. I laughed at him cuz he thought I was an idiot and didn't know anything about cars. He started listing of suspension parts that need to be replace when doing engine work wtf how dumb does he think I am? I have the money to order rods rings pistons and valves. My car runs fine right now but I have to keep boost low. Theoretically I could do the rings rods and everything myself when spring comes back around and I can ride my motorcycle everywhere I would just have to get An engine hoist and a cylinder honing tool. And I could probably do all of it but I would rather a shop do and and warranty it so if they start the car and blow something up from being done wrong they can replace all of it.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
iiii said:
I forgot what turbo you're planning to use? Just a 2860r? I've had my 5456 at 19psi stock engine and don't foresee any issues.
Why are you wanting to build it for such a 'small' turbo? Not saying it's a bad idea.. Just torque onset?
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I plan on going bigger but I figured it's smarter to build the engine before going to big. Also my engine has 230000 on it so before it does brake and I have to spend even more money why not build it to handle more than I'm pushing to be safe.
 
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vw bumble bee
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