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Is there a comprehensive guide for going extremely low on coilovers like in the Mk4 forum?

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Permaslowedvr6

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've searched and have found threads with no more then 10 posts about the proper modifications for going extremely low, whether it be air or static. As the title states, is there a simple, step-by-step, comprehensive thread about how to properly lower your mk3? There should be one sticky'd. :confused:
 
#2 ·
I believe there is a thread about this but I'm have some trouble finding it.
I don't know if a step by step would work as well as there are things that different between Vr's and ABA etc.
Getting a Vr to lay out is a lot easier than getting an aba to lay frame on air.

IMO this is what I would do..
Static- the right coilovers, drop plates, tie-rod flip, ball joint extenders, passenger side frame notch (maybe tierod notch if the car is low enough to need it or if you dont use ball joint extenders and tie-rod flip), rasie the motor, the right wheels and tires.

ABA AIR- airlift or bag yard struts, frame notch, tierod notch, rear motor mount notch, early modded strut mounts, Great plates to center the rear wheels, raise motor if you are going to drive low just incase, the right wheels and tires. (tie-rod flip & ball joint extenders would also work instead of the tie-rod notch.)

VR AIR- airlift or bag yard struts, frame notch, tierod notch, Great plates to center the rear wheels, raise motor, the right wheels and tires.

Like I said that's IMO.
I have had a very low static aba car, a very low static ABU car and I currently have a ABU car on air that lays on its summer wheels. I'm waiting to buy ball joint extenders and a tie-rod flip to take some stress of my control arms.
 
#3 ·
#11 ·
scottybones said:
Why end the thread now? Afazz's setup is just one example of going low. This thread could be an opportunity for everyone to share input on their current tricks for properly going low; there are many different ways to go about it. Sick of that old vortex mentality: "dude, just search".
Click to expand...
:thumbup:
 
#13 ·
scottybones said:
Why end the thread now? Afazz's setup is just one example of going low. This thread could be an opportunity for everyone to share input on their current tricks for properly going low; there are many different ways to go about it. Sick of that old vortex mentality: "dude, just search".
Click to expand...
chill dude, sarcasm

im just pointing at the fact that Afazz has a really detailed techincal build and was one of the first people to go really 'low'
 
#14 · (Edited)
scottybones said:
Sounds sketchy to me ... I'd fork over the cash for the Unix ones, but that's just me.
Click to expand...
This. I have seen the eBay ones and I would not trust them with holding my ball joint to the control arm. Safety is worth the money. :thumbup:
As I stated above I'm picking up a set soon to take some stress off my control arms and tie-rods. I got to this height aired out with Tie-rod notches.

Untitled by gtikole, on Flickr

Untitled by gtikole, on Flickr

This was before switching to air. Cx racing coilovers, modded early strut mounts and rear camber shims.


14091443690_7a99642375_o by gtikole, on Flickr


Untitled by gtikole, on Flickr
<img src="http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x159/koletygrove/image_4_zpsdee8eb0c.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo image_4_zpsdee8eb0c.jpeg"/>
 
#16 ·
The ones I saw were quality, there was some eBay ones at the time as well, but there cheaper sets than what was posted.


I mean really, ball joints are very very cheap on this car, and are held on by 3 screws... :beer:
 
#19 ·
scottybones said:
Why end the thread now? Afazz's setup is just one example of going low. This thread could be an opportunity for everyone to share input on their current tricks for properly going low; there are many different ways to go about it. Sick of that old vortex mentality: "dude, just search".
Click to expand...
Properly would be parallel to the ground. Not totaling the car out for appearance and lack of driveability from a functional standpoint. That's just my opinion
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·



This is how I'm sitting now. I've already notched the frame. I'm looking to cut my fenders and run euro style flairs but slightly wider than the OEM ones. I was talking to a buddy yesterday and he said if you cut the rear fenders there is a metal inner in the wheel well that needs to be welded. Does anyone have any advice for this?
 
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