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ssallday

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone I'm new to the forums here and I have a 2004 Jetta wagon 2.0. About 2 years ago my compressor was replaced with a used one and the a/c was working perfectly fine. Last year the air from the a/c began to get warmer until it completely stopped blowing any cold air. A couple of weeks ago we checked the freon lines and they had plenty of pressure in them. We also checked the fuses in the car and on top of the battery along with the fan control module. The compressor spins from the serpentine belt but the clutch does not engage and there is no power in the wires going to the compressor. There is power at the high pressure switch but the condenser fan does not come on unless the switch is jumped. Could the culprit be the ambient temperature sensor?
 
Condenser fan?

We also checked the fuses in the car and on top of the battery along with the fan control module.
You say that you checked the Fan Control Module - so are you saying that it is supplying power to the clutch but there is no power at the clutch? Then the problem has to be the wire between the FCM and the clutch - or the ground to the clutch.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Condenser fan?



You say that you checked the Fan Control Module - so are you saying that it is supplying power to the clutch but there is no power at the clutch? Then the problem has to be the wire between the FCM and the clutch - or the ground to the clutch.
I'm not sure if there is power at the control module because I picked up a used one and it would be my luck that both of them are bad. There is no power at the wire that connects to the clutch wire on top of the compressor. Today I checked the ambient temp sensor and it was good. Like you said it could be the wires but I'm not completely sure. I also checked the a/c relay and that was good. Is there an a/c wiring diagram that I could look at? Also, how would I be able to test a control module?
 
Condenser fan - a/c relay - where are you finding these things and how are you testing them?

There is a wiring diagram in the Bentley manual. I think there may be a DIY for checking the FCM on VWvortex somewhere. Check for power from the fuse through the FCM module to the clutch - the wires shouldn't change colors between the fuse and the FCM - and between the FCM and the clutch.

I assume that both radiator fans come on at slow speed when you turn the AC on.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Condenser fan - a/c relay - where are you finding these things and how are you testing them?

There is a wiring diagram in the Bentley manual. I think there may be a DIY for checking the FCM on VWvortex somewhere. Check for power from the fuse through the FCM module to the clutch - the wires shouldn't change colors between the fuse and the FCM - and between the FCM and the clutch.

I assume that both radiator fans come on at slow speed when you turn the AC on.
I found the fcm under the battery and the relay under the steering wheel. I tested the switch in the relay and it was good. The fcm I would assume is good because when ever I jump out the high press. Switch the condenser fans come on. I'm pretty sure there is power at the fcm and fuse box on top of the battery but no power at the clutch so is it most likely a wire problem between the fcm and clutch?
 
There is a relay/solenoid under the dash for the A/C compressor too. That can be faulty. They run about 10$. There is a whole writeup to test the whole FCM system here with pic, on my tablet don't have link though.

KSW
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
There is a relay/solenoid under the dash for the A/C compressor too. That can be faulty. They run about 10$. There is a whole writeup to test the whole FCM system here with pic, on my tablet don't have link though.

KSW
I went out today and got a relay. Unfortunately, that was not the culprit. Tomorrow I will try to mess around with the FCM but if I don't come up with anything then I have no clue what else it could be. Today I also checked the 4 pin connector on the left side of the battery leading to the wire that sits on top of the compressor and found continuity but no power.
 
I went out today and got a relay. Unfortunately, that was not the culprit. Tomorrow I will try to mess around with the FCM but if I don't come up with anything then I have no clue what else it could be. Today I also checked the 4 pin connector on the left side of the battery leading to the wire that sits on top of the compressor and found continuity but no power.
I haven't seen where anyone has referred you to any step-by-step troubleshooting of the system so I'm copying and pasting some good info from an old thread:
"On this vehicle, the cooling fan and A/C compressor operation are controlled by the J293 fan control module, which is usually located in the driver's front corner of the engine compartment on the lower frame rail. The J293 module has both a 14-pin connector identified as the T14 connector in Volkswagen wiring diagrams and a four-pin connector identified as the T4a connector. To diagnose this system, starting on the T14 connector:

1) Start and idle the vehicle. Select "A/C on" at maximum cooling and "blower on" at high speed.

2) Check for 12 volts at the T14 connector pin No. 8 (T14/8). This 12-volt signal comes from the A/C switch and requires both cooling fans on at low speed and compressor activation.

3) Check for 12 volts at pin T14/9. This voltage is a switched ignition source and will have 12 volts when the ignition is in the "on" position.

4) Check for 12 volts at pin T14/4. This is a constant battery source and should read 12 volts at all times from fuse S16.

5) Check for a good ground at pin T14/6.

6) Check for 12 volts at all times at the four-pin connector, T4a pins T4a/1 and T4a/3 from fuses S164 and S180, respectively.

7) Turn off the ignition. Remove the T14 connector and check for continuity between pins T14/14 and T14/5 on harness side to ensure proper operation of the F38 ambient temperature switch. Continuity must be present if the ambient air temperature is above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Reconnect the T14 connector and restart the vehicle.

8) Check pin T14/2 using a duty cycle meter. If the refrigerant charge in the system is normal, about 30 percent to 35 percent duty should be indicated at pin T14/2 without the compressor engaged. The duty cycle signal is supplied by the G65 pressure sensor in response to system pressure changes. A duty cycle above 90 percent or below 20 percent will command the compressor off.

9) Check for an 11-volt reference voltage at pin T14/3. The reference voltage originates in the J293 fan control module and can be grounded by |the power control module (PCM) under certain circumstances (typically wide open throttle or vehicle overheat conditions) to turn the A/C compressor off.

If zero volts are present, the PCM is commanding "compressor off" or the wiring harness is shorted to ground. Raise vehicle idle speed above 2500 rpm and observe compressor operation and voltage at pin T14/3. If the voltage at pin T14/3 returns to 11 volts with the idle speed above 2500 rpm and compressor operation resumes, then a throttle basic setting procedure is needed and must be performed with a factory-compatible, by-directional scan tool. Note: A loss of throttle basic settings will keep the compressor from activating.

If all previous tests have passed, check the T14 connector pin T14/10 for 12 volts. This pin is the output signal to the compressor clutch coil. If all the other tests have passed and there is no voltage at pin T14/10, this indicates a faulty fan control module."

Original source of this information: http://www.gti-vr6.net/wiki/index.ph...Control_Module

In my case I've got power to the compressor but it never kicks in. I've cut open the fan control module and verified that closing each relay kicks the 2 condenser fans on - the relay closest to the end of the box does low speed and the other one does high speed. I've hesitated to swap any components so far because my own thread has had almost 100 views but absolutely no responses and I'm stumped.
 
I went out today and got a relay. Unfortunately, that was not the culprit.
Curious - which relay did you replace?

Today I also checked the 4 pin connector on the left side of the battery leading to the wire that sits on top of the compressor and found continuity but no power.
Continuity from the FCM to the clutch? So you're not getting power from the FCM? Are you getting power going to the FCM from the compressor fuse?
 
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