how do u do it? i tried movig the valves but didnt budge and dont know how to push down faf enough to get the journal caps on.
camshaft install
cabbymiami
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how do u do it? i tried movig the valves but didnt budge and dont know how to push down faf enough to get the journal caps on.
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Did you tdc the engine before you pulled it?
If u did it should be pretty easy to set the caps on and start working the bolts in.
sent from my telegraph
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head is off and completely dissassembled as it came back from machine shop. so all the valves are in the same position.
1st, make 100% certain you have all the caps in their proper position and orientation.
To my mind, correct is pretty obvious, post up if it's not obvious to you. Happy to elaborate if you need.
Tops of the caps should be numbered, also see Bentley P. 3-16, Fig. 4-11.
As the caps are tightened down, half of the valves will start to open.
So, support the head in such a way that there's room for the valves to open freely and not against the bench/table top.
You can use a fender cover, old blanket, several rags or anything of the sort for a soft support.
Apply assembly lube on the followers and bearing surfaces of the head and caps.
Set the cam in place. As a best practice/routine, get in the habit of assembling things at #1 TDC when applicable, cam lobe pic below.
Set all the caps in place.
I forget if they use washers or flange nuts, sorry. Set washers in place if used, start all the nuts finger loose, thread on just enough to make contact with the caps.
If you've set the cam to #1 TDC, the #4 lobes will be at overlap, one valve open on both #2 and #3, the cam will be angled high towards #4.
Using only one or two turns per nut at a time, start pulling the cam down, start at cap #3, then #4, then #2, then #1. The object is to pull the cam down as evenly as possible. You will be working against valve spring tension and opening valves.
CAMS CAN BREAK if forced down improperly. As cams are very hard, they are also very brittle.
Once the cam is all the way down, install the seal. I'd also install the gear with the head on the bench, the gear could wait until the head is on the block.
Keep in mind that once the cam caps are torqued, there will be four valves open, gently handle the head with that in mind.
![Image]()
.
To my mind, correct is pretty obvious, post up if it's not obvious to you. Happy to elaborate if you need.
Tops of the caps should be numbered, also see Bentley P. 3-16, Fig. 4-11.
As the caps are tightened down, half of the valves will start to open.
So, support the head in such a way that there's room for the valves to open freely and not against the bench/table top.
You can use a fender cover, old blanket, several rags or anything of the sort for a soft support.
Apply assembly lube on the followers and bearing surfaces of the head and caps.
Set the cam in place. As a best practice/routine, get in the habit of assembling things at #1 TDC when applicable, cam lobe pic below.
Set all the caps in place.
I forget if they use washers or flange nuts, sorry. Set washers in place if used, start all the nuts finger loose, thread on just enough to make contact with the caps.
If you've set the cam to #1 TDC, the #4 lobes will be at overlap, one valve open on both #2 and #3, the cam will be angled high towards #4.
Using only one or two turns per nut at a time, start pulling the cam down, start at cap #3, then #4, then #2, then #1. The object is to pull the cam down as evenly as possible. You will be working against valve spring tension and opening valves.
CAMS CAN BREAK if forced down improperly. As cams are very hard, they are also very brittle.
Once the cam is all the way down, install the seal. I'd also install the gear with the head on the bench, the gear could wait until the head is on the block.
Keep in mind that once the cam caps are torqued, there will be four valves open, gently handle the head with that in mind.
.
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thank you t!
this is were I'm at., the crank is is same position as your picture just not pushed down. woodruff slot is kinda facing you at 2 o'clock if that makes sense..
am i lowering the cam by evenly lowering each cap little by little, until the cam lowers in a level way? seems like u don't have much control of nudging cap if its not going on right.. duno.
i think i read book say that cam sprocket seal goes on soaked in oil. is that accurate?
btw..the old seal crud in my pic did not go unnoticed.
this is were I'm at., the crank is is same position as your picture just not pushed down. woodruff slot is kinda facing you at 2 o'clock if that makes sense..
am i lowering the cam by evenly lowering each cap little by little, until the cam lowers in a level way? seems like u don't have much control of nudging cap if its not going on right.. duno.
i think i read book say that cam sprocket seal goes on soaked in oil. is that accurate?
btw..the old seal crud in my pic did not go unnoticed.
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293 Posts
there is a torque sequence for the camshaft caps in the bentley
follow it
otherwise the camshaft will warp when being installed
follow it
otherwise the camshaft will warp when being installed
I looked in only two Bentleys, found no cam torque sequence though I expected to. Where is it?
Re- cam warping; not happening, they snap, too stiff to warp.
No sequence do each one a little at a time, I usually start in the middle, then do the one on the left of center, then one to the right of center working from the inside to the outside...
Here is what the Bentley has to say:
There is a torque sequence, but certainly the camshaft will not warp. It may break though.
cam torque sequence bentley (using diesel 77-84 but its the same) ch5 page 27 heading 5.4
"loosely install bearing caps 2 and 4. gradually tighten all four nuts until the camshaft is drawn down fully and evenly. then install bearing caps 5 and 3. finally install bearing cap 1. torque the bearing cap nuts to 20nm/15ftlbs
there is also a sequence to remove the camshaft "if this procedure is not followed the camshaft may tilt in its bearings which could damage the bearings or BEND the camshaft"
bentley.
yes i own 3 bentleys
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