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That's impressive. So I'm told.. they start to barf more oil and then ultimately start causing a vacuum leak and then a bunch of driveability issues ensue. Way to go VW... way to go. :mad:
thats mostly seen on dsg cars for some reason, at least from what i see here at my job outta 10 cars with rms issues, 9 are autos, 1 manual trans..... not sure why since its virtually same part
 
So what's the cost to fix that?
Will know tomorrow when I pick the car up at NGP.

From what they are saying, they are seeing more of it and have no idea why it is happening on some cars vs. others.

Interesting that DSG cars may have this more potentially over the manuals. Granted.. it's not that much of a leak, but now I know where the little dribble was coming from in the driveway. I first thought it was my wife's new A7 GTI or the .:R or maybe the Rabbit, but turns out it was the GLI. Go figure. :rolleyes:

Will be happy to have it back. Driving the .:R on track is fun, but these on the streets it's rather painful.
 
Will know tomorrow when I pick the car up at NGP.

From what they are saying, they are seeing more of it and have no idea why it is happening on some cars vs. others.

Interesting that DSG cars may have this more potentially over the manuals. Granted.. it's not that much of a leak, but now I know where the little dribble was coming from in the driveway. I first thought it was my wife's new A7 GTI or the .:R or maybe the Rabbit, but turns out it was the GLI. Go figure. :rolleyes:

Will be happy to have it back. Driving the .:R on track is fun, but these on the streets it's rather painful.
Interesting. If you have a chance try to figure out what clutch kit yours came with stock. I think I'm going to put my DP back on and go stage 2 even if it means I'll need a new clutch. I'm sick of my GLI but doing this is much cheaper than getting a different whip lol.


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I have a 2013 GLI. chanes are the clutches are identical on some MY 2013 models whether it be a 2013 or 2013.5. So this info might help. Ive been on stage APR stage one, CAI with velocity stack, and boost pipes for 25k miles. With regular abuse as I tend to do plenty of WOT sprints, some drag racing and autocross. A few very important things to consider when trying to extend clutch life when added 20%+ more power and torque: look at the dyno graph, adjust driving style and get lighter wheels if possible.

If i recall correctly, peak torque on a lot of tunes come at around 3500-3800k. Torque is was kills clutch life. So i very rarely go WOT at that rpm, especially in higher gears and with added weight on the car. The engine provides more than the front wheels can handle during more scenarios so 75% throttle at midrange rpm will not only help with the clutch life but will also help with acceleration. Why? Because thats usually the point where we lose traction, at peak torque. So it's a win win. Under no circumstance do i recommend to go WOT in 6th gear before peak torque, that will kill your clutch quickly. If you tend to do this with passengers in the car and with heavy aftermarket wheels then the clutch will be toast in not time

Lighter wheels = less rotating mass which means less load on the drivetrain and ultimately the clutch. Hope this helps.
 
Interesting. If you have a chance try to figure out what clutch kit yours came with stock. I think I'm going to put my DP back on and go stage 2 even if it means I'll need a new clutch. I'm sick of my GLI but doing this is much cheaper than getting a different whip lol.


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Sorry.. couldn't get the P/N for the clutch that was on the car. From what we can tell the pressure plate was just "weak" basically. Damn sure it had been slipping for awhile b/c this car pulls pretty strongly now. Only complaint about the Stg II clutch is it has a bit more NVH when you get on it than the dual mass flywheel. Otherwise. Pedal feel is really nice, a bit heavier, great bite and feel. At idle and with the clutch in really no noise from it. Injectors are louder than anything.
 
Discussion starter · #147 ·
This description sounds a lot like what a failing synchro on 1st gear would do. Have you installed a short shift kit or has anyone monkeyed around with the adjustment on your shift linkage?
My mechanic who is a good friend of mine said that it could be cause my clutch is dragging and that's is why it's hard to get it in first gear rolling at 3mph. The clicking is still there but the dealership told me that it's normal with this transmission. I think the throw out bearing is shot again..... I am stumped as to what it could be ultimately. I will get the clutch swapped out and see if that's fixes my problems. If not I guess I will have to start considering syncros. I would rather do it all on one shot while it's out. Wish there was a company that made upgrades syncros. Anyone know of any such thing?
 
Did anyone go with the stage 2 endurance clutch system from southbend? If so, is it a comfortable daily driver?

I really want to put a beefier clutch than needed so I have room for more torque in the future and it's better insurance in the long wrong.

If anyone has it, I would appreciate a little insight on how it is to drive with it.

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Volks...d-DXD-Stage-2-Endurance-Clutch-and-Flywheel-Kit-PASSAT-2.0TSI-KTSIF-HD-OFE.html


MK6 GLI
2013.5 2.OT GEN 3
Yep.. have it after I blew my stock one out. I like it. Little bit of noise, but not bad at all and I'm REALLY picky about that sort of stuff. It's heavier, but it's a decent weight. I live in Virginia/DC so we have some of the worst traffic in the US and I'm perfectly fine with it the Stg 2 daily setup.
 
Yep.. have it after I blew my stock one out. I like it. Little bit of noise, but not bad at all and I'm REALLY picky about that sort of stuff. It's heavier, but it's a decent weight. I live in Virginia/DC so we have some of the worst traffic in the US and I'm perfectly fine with it the Stg 2 daily setup.
This is the stage 2 endurance one tho. So I assume it will be more on the heavier side?
 
Not really... it's heavier, but not ZOMG my leg is about to fall off type deal.
After further research. The only difference from the daily and the endurance is the feramic flywheel. I am pumped to get the endurance unit! Now to just keep saving haha!

Here is a good review for anyone who is interested.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2607302

The only complaint ppl have is that it sometimes squeaks a bit. One guy blamed it on who installed the unit and South Bend states that they heard of the complaint in the past but it does not cause any damage nor has it been such a complaint that they needed to go back to the drawing board.

(After more research)

They revised the unit on 5-15-2012. I assume to fix the squeaking issue.
 
Mike,
is your car tuned? if so, mow many miles ago. Suspect many clutches are subjected to burn-outs and drag racing though I could be wrong.

Best.
In most cases in this thread especially that's not the case. I know personally my car doesn't do burnouts or drag race. This is my commuter car and the clutch went... well really the pressure plate/throwout bearing went bad. The clutch is just barely marginal for these cars stock. Tune just puts them over the edge.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
Mike,
is your car tuned? if so, mow many miles ago. Suspect many clutches are subjected to burn-outs and drag racing though I could be wrong.

Best.
In most cases in this thread especially that's not the case. I know personally my car doesn't do burnouts or drag race. This is my commuter car and the clutch went... well really the pressure plate/throwout bearing went bad. The clutch is just barely marginal for these cars stock. Tune just puts them over the edge.
Same here. It's a commuter car for me, though I'll admit to being a spirited driver. I got a tune at 1,500 and it started slipping at 13k. If you already have 30k+, I'd be surprised if the clutch lasts another 10k.
 
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