If it has leather, it’s a ‘Premium’ spec. 'Premium' did not include the backup camera or navigation, they were line-item options. Other line-item options were chrome wheels, lane-keep assist, Bose audio, and some paints.It’s black on black with leather, how do I tell what trim line that is?
GM-Volt.com sucks. Reddit is much better. Or just ask here. 8 years, 103k miles, awesome car. Zero drama, really low maintenance, really well built.Also, is there an Official Volt thread? I’m going to have questions. Or a good forum that isn’t full of geezers and hippies? Not that there is anything wrong with that..
ABC: Always Be Charging. Keep it plugged in at every opportunity - it manages battery temp, and keeps the 12V charged. It's also best for the traction battery.
Don't drive it in "D", drive it in "L". Pull the shifter ALL the way back to "L". That gives you greater off-pedal regen, it's not actually 'low gear' (****ty labeling on GM's part).
Pressing 'DRIVE MODE' twice puts it in sport mode. BE CAREFUL ABOUT DOING THIS WHILE YOU'RE DRIVING, don't hit the power button by mistake! The Gen 1 cars have the power button in a stupid location that makes it too easy to accidentally hit it when you're reaching for the mode button. More on that in another post.
The owner’s manual and infotainment manuals are available for download from gm.com as PDFs.
Replace the 12V battery now, unless you have a verifiable receipt that it was done in the last year with an OE (dealer) part. Don't try to go aftermarket, don't trust it beyond 3 years, it's a special AGM battery, they go bad suddenly and you'll have all sorts of weird problems that are 100% it just needing a new 12V. Just do it. It's less than $150 at the dealer after you bring the core back, and you can swap it yourself in literally minutes with just one 10mm tool.
The brake fluid and coolant have a flush-and-fill schedule that's both calendar and mileage based, so considering the age it is due for both unless you have receipts. This is a dealer thing. Coolant is DexCool only, make sure all the tanks are topped up to their fill marks. A low battery coolant level will trigger a 'service high voltage system' fault.
Don't worry if the flexible skirt under the bumper scrapes on speedbumps or driveway entrances - it's made to do that. You can get the newer style to replace it with (my original one lasted nearly 90k before I replaced it).
I put a receiver hitch on mine to carry a bike rack.
Here’s the cabin air filter: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-CF176-Original-Equipment-Filter/dp/B003YOF66C/
…and here’s how to install it:
You can de-clutter your main cluster display a bit by using the controls on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Press ‘<- BACK’ to hide the selected menu. Also press CONFIG to hide the stupid efficiency ball and show the battery and fuel levels simultaneously.
The two greyed-out seatbelt icons on the upper left of the driver's display are for rear seats - it’ll alert you if someone/something is on the seat and the belt not buckled.
The keys use CR2032 batteries. RTFM on how to start the car if the key battery is dead.
Since there's no spare and no wheel tools at all, if you want to be prepared you can get a few things for cheap. Here’s the jack that I got from Harbor Freight: 1-1/2 ton Scissor Jack I keep it in the right side compartment, in socks to prevent rattles. I also keep a cheap code-scanner, a multi-tool in case I need to pull an object out to plug a puncture, and a 10mm deep socket which fits the bolts on the 12V AGM battery. Under the hatch floor on the right side I keep a lugwrench ($10 at Pep Boys), and tyre plug kit. I didn't get a spare to carry around, but a couple of different GM compact spares have been found to fit correctly.
If you want tips on all the settings in the menus, I can post that. At minimum, do these:
- Engine assisted heated: AT VERY LOW TEMPERATURES
- Engine assisted heating plugged in: *UN*CHECKED (if it’s plugged in and you remote heat the cabin you don’t want the engine to start in the garage!)