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    1. · Registered
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      10,064 Posts
      IDK, $228 to do what coupla chunks of wood could do just as well...

      For that money, you might as well get this, stop for a nice meal on the way home, and still have some $$$ left over:

      I've had one of these for years and I've used it to lift many things around here, not all automotive. Very useful tool.
       
    1. · Registered
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      828 Posts
      A salvage engine is only about $600 with 70,000 miles on it or so.
      An engine hoist at Harbor Freight is about $180.
      https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html

      Save the old engine, take it apart in your spare time, and see what went wrong.
      Likely water locked a piston and bent a rod.
      But easy to rebuild if you have the time.
      Can be then sold for $1000, or swapped back on at some time later.
      Rebuilding an engine only costs about $300 in parts.
      Very instructive and fun actually.
       
    2. · Banned
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      1,779 Posts
      A salvage engine is only about $600 with 70,000 miles on it or so.
      An engine hoist at Harbor Freight is about $180.
      https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html

      Save the old engine, take it apart in your spare time, and see what went wrong.
      Likely water locked a piston and bent a rod.
      But easy to rebuild if you have the time.
      Can be then sold for $1000, or swapped back on at some time later.
      Rebuilding an engine only costs about $300 in parts.
      Very instructive and fun actually.
      SMH
      only a fool would do so much work for so little back.
      $300? yea... if you want to continue working on it like a VW SLAVE
       
    1. · Registered
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      4,629 Posts
      I got both my stand / hoist at harbor freight. Granted I haven't pulled my VR with it yet but I did use them both on a engine swap for a 3.0l maxima. Worked with no issues at all.

      EDIT: This stand: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32916.html

      The hoist I got is NLA apparently: so this would be the equivalent: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html

      Those paired with a heavy duty nylon strap from them aswell for like $10 bucks and you should be good to go.
       
    1. · Registered
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      15 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      DIY- First VW Jetta Golf Rabbit 2.5L Engine /Transmission/ Clutch Swap Replacement Removal

      Engine/Tranny/ Clutch Removal replacement for the 2.5L VW Jetta/GOLF/Rabbit model engines!

      Key Notes:

      2.5L engines are cheap as hell, and you’re almost certainly better off swapping the entire engine than going in and trying to replace the timing chain or other components, assuming your engine has over 100k... My brother’s engine had 160k miles on it, and one of the chain tensioners had too much slack causing extreme rough idle and cylinder misfires and ticking noise… Chain kit replacement- $400, OR (option I opted for, Engine off a 2011 Golf with only 40k miles on it for $300! Choice was simple!

      2. The swap was done on a 2006 Jetta with an old version P engine, but due note that the auto/manual engines are interchangeable and if you are going to swap, try to get the newer model engine like CQUA.

      3. If you are going to swap the engine, save yourself the hassle and change the flywheel and clutch while you are at it! **** Very important!!! Once you remove the transmission from the engine, and you decide to change the flywheel, remember that the flywheel spins COUNTERCLOCKWISE, looking at it with the tranny off! If you spin it clockwise you can create too much slack causing the chain to skip a tooth!

      4. If you just need to just swap the transmission or do a clutch job, then you don't need to pull the front end off, just get a engine bay lift or engine hoist from the passengers side, and transmission jack and it will drop without issue! You’ll only have to remove the drivers side mount while supporting the engine.

      I'm a finance major so If I can do it, you can likely do this swap as well, but as a rule of thumb, if it takes you more than 5 minutes to take the engine cover off, then you might want to refrain from attempting to swap an engine. Also make sure that your chain and hoist are able to support the the weight of the engine/tranny (~ 500-600lbs together)!


      I don't have time to detail every bolt and wire that I removed, but here is the general outline.


      If you want to you pull the engine, do yourself a favor and drop the front clip (only takes an hour but will safe you so much time and you will be able to slide the engine straight out! Also, it's only held on by 8 bolts to the frame and comes off as one unit! Just make sure you vacuum the ac line before hand.

      Must have tools if you want to do it right:

      Electric Impact gun
      https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEAYXW...471317631&sr=sr-1&keywords=dewalt+impact+1/2"
      Sockets + Extensions
      https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-97-1...id=1471317668&sr=1-1&keywords=1/2"+impact+set
      Serrated Bits
      https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Serrat...471317712&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=serrated+birs
      Engine Hoist
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html
      Transmission Lift
      http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-Low-Lift-Transmission-Jack-61232.html
      Torque Wrench
      https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Torq...qid=1471317967&sr=1-21&keywords=torque+wrench


      -Remove battery, engine cover, battery support,
      - Lift the front end as high as you can and support on jacks.
      - Remove the 6 axle bolts from the the transmission flange on both sides, and just let the axles sit, no need to remove the main bolt.
      -drain coolant
      -remove grill, bumper and lights, in that order! If you decide to drop the front clip. Support on a lift or have someone hold the front clip as you move it out and disconnect both ac lines from the AC condenser.
      - remove the four exhaust bolts when the engine is still supported.
      -remove Coolant reservior
      -remove all the lines to the engine from the right sight, including coolant reservoir, fuel line, eat, to have access to the engine mount bolts.
      - Disconnect all the coolant lines from the engine, and the such, you will need to remove the wire harness from the engine.
      - Remove all the transmission linkages, master cylinder and zip tie near the old battery placement.
      -Properly secure the hooks to the two lift points, and create tension.
      -Remove the two bolts from the wish bone to the engine
      -Remove bolts from both engine mounts.
      -Wiggle, wiggle wiggle
      -You're halfway there!

      More important Torque specs to know:

      Axle bolts to flange, 35ft lbs.
      Top 2 transmission to engine bolts- 60ft lbs, starter bolts, 70 ft lbs, bottom 3 engine to transmission bolts, 50ft lbs
      Engine Mount bolts, 60-70ft lbs to chassissy, 40ft for the triple horizontal mount bolts.
      Fly wheel to tranny! 75ft lbs!- Remember to keep the flywheel in place when tightening, DO NOT rotate the flywheel “CLOCKWISE”.
      14-17ft for the pressure plate.

      Took me two days to complete the job, and that was with me triple checking everything to ensure no surprises. Car and runs and drives like a dream!

      I have pretty much every part/connectors/tube/wires/ect connected to the engine so if you need anything message me and I"ll give you the best deal you can get!
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