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    1. · Registered
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      I've done this a number of times. Let me break down the options for you:

      1 - Push. Depending on the car, the carrier, and the people you have handy, this can work really well or be completely impossible. You're probably in the 'impossible' camp or you wouldn't be asking. People who have big friends and can push a car up a trailer already know they can. :) If you're on the fence, use nature to your advantage. A hill, a curb, a ditch, some longer 2x10 boards, or the like, and you can make your life a lot easier with this method.

      2 - Use another vehicle to tow the broken vehicle up the trailer. This is super-risky, and I've damaged a car or two doing this. Usually when prepping them for the scrapyard, so I wasn't being careful. You put a long strap on the broken vehicle and use a third vehicle to tow it up the trailer. This only works on open trailers/carriers, and the biggest risk is that you'll pull the towed vehicle off the side of the ramps or trailer because of the angles involved. Jackknife the truck that the trailer is attached to (to get it out of the way) and get the straightest pull you can. It's still not a great idea, and is just one step away from being a 'here, hold my beer for a sec' method.

      3 - Come-alongs - These are terrible for one big reason - they only pull 2-ish feet at a time, and then you have to find some way to hold the vehicle while you disconnect and re-position the straps or chains you're using with the come-along. The parking brake won't be enough. I strongly recommend against this method.

      4 - Hand winch - Like one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html Slightly more expensive than a come-along, but under $30 and these work pretty well. You'll get a workout, and it will be painfully slow, but it will generally work and is FAR safer than methods 1, 2, or 3. ******* pro-tip: Rig up some way (like a welded nut) to drive the handle with an impact wrench. You'll get done in a fraction of the time and you've now created your own electric winch for $200 less than the real thing. The reason this is so cheap is that the gear in the winch will last about 3 pulls when driving it this way, even if you add grease. Might still be worth it.

      5 - If you do this often enough, it's worth the $200 on an electric winch. Makes the whole process so easy you'll go looking for broken cars just to load and unload them. For one-time use I wouldn't bother, though.
       
    2. · Registered
      A3 etron, Volt
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      9,583 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #21 ·
      I've done this a number of times. Let me break down the options for you:

      1 - Push. Depending on the car, the carrier, and the people you have handy, this can work really well or be completely impossible. You're probably in the 'impossible' camp or you wouldn't be asking. People who have big friends and can push a car up a trailer already know they can. :) If you're on the fence, use nature to your advantage. A hill, a curb, a ditch, some longer 2x10 boards, or the like, and you can make your life a lot easier with this method.

      2 - Use another vehicle to tow the broken vehicle up the trailer. This is super-risky, and I've damaged a car or two doing this. Usually when prepping them for the scrapyard, so I wasn't being careful. You put a long strap on the broken vehicle and use a third vehicle to tow it up the trailer. This only works on open trailers/carriers, and the biggest risk is that you'll pull the towed vehicle off the side of the ramps or trailer because of the angles involved. Jackknife the truck that the trailer is attached to (to get it out of the way) and get the straightest pull you can. It's still not a great idea, and is just one step away from being a 'here, hold my beer for a sec' method.

      3 - Come-alongs - These are terrible for one big reason - they only pull 2-ish feet at a time, and then you have to find some way to hold the vehicle while you disconnect and re-position the straps or chains you're using with the come-along. The parking brake won't be enough. I strongly recommend against this method.

      4 - Hand winch - Like one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html Slightly more expensive than a come-along, but under $30 and these work pretty well. You'll get a workout, and it will be painfully slow, but it will generally work and is FAR safer than methods 1, 2, or 3. ******* pro-tip: Rig up some way (like a welded nut) to drive the handle with an impact wrench. You'll get done in a fraction of the time and you've now created your own electric winch for $200 less than the real thing. The reason this is so cheap is that the gear in the winch will last about 3 pulls when driving it this way, even if you add grease. Might still be worth it.

      5 - If you do this often enough, it's worth the $200 on an electric winch. Makes the whole process so easy you'll go looking for broken cars just to load and unload them. For one-time use I wouldn't bother, though.
      Good info, thank you!

      O come on..... I have pushed 3 or 4 cars onto a uhall carrier with me and another dude. I can also hall a pinball machine out of my basement myself in a have to situation so I could be a beast and not know it.

      You have some options, you can use the starter to blip the car on at worst worst worst case. You might kill the starter FYI.

      You can rig a pulley system and a child can pull it on but that will be very slow going.

      You can push it on with another vehicle. If you really really have to and you don't care about the trailer you can block the cars back wheels and back the trailer right under the car. You can add to this by jacking the car up and backing the trailer under it.
      Looks like the uhaul one. 2-3 people should be able to get it up on the trailer.
      But it would not hurt to pick up a come along just to be safe.
      We'll try manpower first. Just looking for a good backup plan.

      Thanks guys. I think I have enough ideas! :beer:
       
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