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Hello everyone,

I'm hoping someone on this fantastic thread can help somehow! I've been experiencing the symptoms mentioned here for a few months now.
I have a 2005 TDI Jetta Wagon, automatic transmission, 189k.. I was excited to find this thread because I'm having the exact same issues, and the solenoid job sounded like the ideal solution, especially because of the relative low cost. However, when I sent this thread to my mechanics (whom I've been using for 6 years) asking if we could do it, they told me that it wasn't such a simple job because I have a Jatco transmission, not a German one, and to do the solenoid job on my trans is way more time consuming (10 hours of labor) because they have to pull the whole thing out and split it open to get to the solenoids. All in, they were saying the job would be around $2000. Does this all sound correct?
They suggested starting with smaller 'fixes' which may or may not solve the problem, so I agreed and we replaced the transmission range switch. $600, no difference. Then a fluid service. $400, still no difference. So now I'm looking at either a rebuild ($3400), a replacement ($4k+), taking a chance with the solenoid job, or finding a good transmission shop who'll put in a junkyard trans for a decent price. I would trade it if I hadn't already done major repairs in the last year or so.

Any help or info is GREATLY appreciated. I sincerely mean that! I'm really over this sh*t at this point...

Roy
 

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Roy,
If this is not shifting when cold, you have one of two possibilities. One, you have a solenoid problem. Two, you have a valvebody problem. By the way, all you have to do is pull off the side cover, it is alittle tricky,(this trans has no pan)if this guy is not a trans guy, not sure i would let him do it. The way to diagnose this problem in my opinion is, to pull the valvebody out, it has to be disassembled, and the valvebody pieces have to be put in the freezer, after about 2 hours, i pull out the valvebody check each valve to see if they stick or drag in the bore, if they do i free them up, if the valves are all free you have a solenoid problem. I had 2 cases where i changed the solenoids and 1 time found a stuck valve.Gary
 

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hi roy,

Ihave exact the same Jatco and it took just about 3 hours to change one solenoid from mechanics. 2 men but they refused to show me how to do that. Some trick maybe involved. Anyway no need to tear down anything.
 

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. I was excited to find this thread because I'm having the exact same issues, and the solenoid job sounded like the ideal solution, especially because of the relative low cost.
If your having delayed upshift cold, and the trans works fine warm, then you probably do need solenoids.



..... because I have a Jatco transmission, not a German one,
Yes you have a Jatco. Its a Jatco Jf506E and VW calls it a 09A.

. because they have to pull the whole thing out and split it open to get to the solenoids.
They are confused. The trans does not have to come out to replace solenoids. Valve body cover (pan) does have to be removed to access solenoids. They may be confused with the speed sensors. They are inside the trans and trans has to be pulled out and split open to replace the speed sensors. Sounds like they don't know enough about these transmissions.

.All in, they were saying the job would be around $2000. Does this all sound correct?
No. Find someone who knows whats going on.

.They suggested starting with smaller 'fixes' which may or may not solve the problem, so I agreed and we replaced the transmission range switch. $600, no difference.
What a waste of money! Someone who knows whats going on could have checked the range sensor conclusively in 45 seconds with vagcom. Do these guys have vagcom?

.Then a fluid service. $400, still no difference.
Fluid service is preventive maintanance and doesn't fix problems. They wasted your money again, plus there is no filter so cost should be cheap. There are no cooler hoses so no "flush machine" can be used, so it should be cheap. Fluid service on 09A is a simple drain and fill, (with a complex fill procedure). They really overcharged you on that one. I Charge 30 bucks plus cost of fluid for drain and fill trans services. (fluid would be 60 to 150 depending on if you wanted dealer fluid or aftermarket).

.So now I'm looking at either a rebuild ($3400), a replacement ($4k+), taking a chance with the solenoid job, or finding a good transmission shop who'll put in a junkyard trans for a decent price.
You should be looking for a different shop. Seriously find someone near you who will change the solenoids. Or you can drive to kansas city and I'll do it.
 

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If this is not shifting when cold, you have one of two possibilities. One, you have a solenoid problem. Two, you have a valvebody problem.
theoretically it could be a VB problem but since there are dozens of folks in this thread who have fixed this problem with solenoids, and I personally have fixed about a dozen with solenoids (and none with VB work), then sticky solenoids is a known pattern failure.

To RoyDrummer.... I wouldn't waste time by disassembling VB or "checking" solenoids when there is a known pattern failure. It would cost more to diagnostically eliminate the VB than it would cost to change the solenoids.

The method gsferraro is suggesting for diagnosing involves removing, and completely disassembling a complex VB and that might be fine for him or I but for most people including RoyDrummer, his incompetent mechanics, and most Diy'ers out there this VB is way too complex and they could potentially mess more stuff up. VB work and internal trans work might best be left to the pro's on this one.
 

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Thank you everyone for your replies! :thumbup:

@CoolAirVW - Yeah, the trans works great once the car is warm. Apparently there was an error code for the trans switch, and that's why they wanted to replace it. They told me that because the trans would be split open to replace the solenoids, I may as well replace the sensors you're talking about, to save on potential future labor. After reading your reply, I'm having serious doubts about my guys. Very disappointing indeed, because I really felt they'd been great over the years. I'll start looking at local transmission shops. In your experience, approximately how much should I be expecting to pay for the solenoid job on my car? Thanks again for your help!
 

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@CoolAirVW - Yeah, the trans works great once the car is warm.

Then your car will most likely be fixed with solenoids.

They told me that because the trans would be split open to replace the solenoids,
This is NOT the case. The solenoid can be replaced without removing the trans, and without splitting the case. It would be a waste of hundreds of dollars to do this.

I may as well replace the sensors you're talking about, to save on potential future labor.
This would be logical if you had to pull the trans and split the case but you dont, so right now that would be a waste of money.

After reading your reply, I'm having serious doubts about my guys.
You should. Maybe they just need to do a little more research on the matter.
 

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Update..

So, the guy who gave me the $850 quote decided that they're not going to do the job (they told me this today after giving me the quote 9 days ago..I've been patiently waiting for them to catch up on work so they can do the job.) His 'tech' said he knows this trans and that the problem is not the solenoids but pistons in the valve body and we have to rebuild it blah blah f'n blah..they wouldn't do the job, despite me accepting all responsibility if it didn't work. Unbelievable! :banghead:

Tomorrow morning I'm taking it to another recommended shop for another quote..
 

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The transmission shop I took it to today is familiar with my transmission, and I feel confident about using them. They quoted me $750 for the solenoid job. The shop owner was talking to me about how the valve bodies in these cars are the source of many trans problems, so I had him give me a quote to replace the valve body - $1650. The car has 190k miles. Do you guys think it's worth considering replacing the valve body, or is that unnecessary?
Thanks for your replies!
 

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Similar problems with 2.3 v5

Hi
Am having the exact same problems with my 2001 v5 Golf (Tiptronic Auto). Wont change out of first until reaches 90 deg C

I understand its also the 09A box (is this correct?) so the solenoids are likely to be the issue.

Can someone please confirm how I can identify if this is the 09A?

Thank you
 
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