02M whining decel noises, aftermarket clutch disengagement issues, mainshaft axial play
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https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57fec4df1a130/20161002_202308.jpg?
By the way, here is my problem at the moment haha.
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Sad thing is i just had it out two weeks ago. Wish i would have read this thread then, but you live and learn.Hmmm, looks like it is time to pull the trans!
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1,807 Posts
Just an FYI not sure if this was mentioned in the previous 5 pages but....
I had to replace a rear seized caliper and as part of my maintenance I flushed all of fluid for new including the line to the clutch. If you bleed the clutch after installing the shim the clutch returns to it's crappy original condition. So I recommend that the shim be removed prior to bleeding the clutch and reinstalled afterwards. Just my finding, not sure if anyone else has run into the same issue???
I had to replace a rear seized caliper and as part of my maintenance I flushed all of fluid for new including the line to the clutch. If you bleed the clutch after installing the shim the clutch returns to it's crappy original condition. So I recommend that the shim be removed prior to bleeding the clutch and reinstalled afterwards. Just my finding, not sure if anyone else has run into the same issue???
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1,807 Posts
Sorry haven't been on here much lately. I bleed with a power bleeder so there was no air in the line. So prior to shim install I experienced all symptoms per original post. Especially varying engagement points of the clutch in the clutch pedal. After the shim install the pedal/clutch engaged consistently. After the bleeding, no more consistency. I have since taken the shim out and re-bled the system... same issue as before. I reinstalled the shim and back to to consistent engagement again. Hope that helps clarify.
02M Mod on Audi TT 2003
Hey all!
Firstly, to the OP, thank you SO much for this post as it's helped me incredibly.
(sorry for reviving an old thread but it's much needed)
I've signed up to this forums to literally thank you in posting the instructions and this mod on here for everyone to come across.
I bought an Audi TT 2003 back in April 2016 and since day one it would have grinding on deceleration.
Now I hadn't test driven the car as the sale was quite late at night and the seller was about to close up. I drove it on the motorway and initially noticed a small whining noise, didn't think much of it.
8 months down the line and it's whined so bad that it's just stupidly loud. During those 8 months I came across this mod and said to myself, what the hell is an 02M, and I just closed the web page.
Until about 1 month before this post, I saw a video of an 02M mod being carried out and I said maybe this could be accessible as easily on the TT, voila! I checked behind my passenger wheel and I was happy to find that it were an 02M gearbox.
I purchased the parts (TPS / £11 for both) and done the mod myself and wow.
YOU are a life saver for this post and I cannot thank you enough!
Shifts much more better, grinding/whining has just gone as if I'm driving a new car!
Hey all!
Firstly, to the OP, thank you SO much for this post as it's helped me incredibly.
(sorry for reviving an old thread but it's much needed)
I've signed up to this forums to literally thank you in posting the instructions and this mod on here for everyone to come across.
I bought an Audi TT 2003 back in April 2016 and since day one it would have grinding on deceleration.
Now I hadn't test driven the car as the sale was quite late at night and the seller was about to close up. I drove it on the motorway and initially noticed a small whining noise, didn't think much of it.
8 months down the line and it's whined so bad that it's just stupidly loud. During those 8 months I came across this mod and said to myself, what the hell is an 02M, and I just closed the web page.
Until about 1 month before this post, I saw a video of an 02M mod being carried out and I said maybe this could be accessible as easily on the TT, voila! I checked behind my passenger wheel and I was happy to find that it were an 02M gearbox.
I purchased the parts (TPS / £11 for both) and done the mod myself and wow.
YOU are a life saver for this post and I cannot thank you enough!
Shifts much more better, grinding/whining has just gone as if I'm driving a new car!
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2,199 Posts
Bump
This thread that was created over 5 years ago is still delivering today! I got my shim kit installed today after encountering the following issues not long after my break-in period on my aftermarket Spec Stage 2+ Clutch and 20lb Matching Spec flywheel.
I've been having the following problems. The clutch holds great though!
Installation went pretty smooth and I topped off a little gear oil since I had some from the last change after a little dripped out when removing the cover on my 2k5 Jetta GLI.
It was very nice out today and my problem seems to occur when it's colder out so I'll have to wait a few days to see.
After going driving today the engagement felt really good and I'm praying the violently jerking when downshifting is remedied. So far the shifts between gears seems much smoother and I'm very impressed! I just wish I would've found out about this sooner! I paid one of my trusted shops $270 to diagnose the issues above and they told me the following>
"Pressure plate Engagement is not 100%. Pressure Plate is grabbing on one point then has delayed engagement for the rest of plate." > Need new clutch/flywheel.
My other shop that installed my clutch said I needed a new clutch kit to have everything on hand and was going to drop the transmission again to the tune of $700+ labor + over 1k in parts! I'm hoping I didn't damage my current clutch and flywheel and transmission too bad with all the violent shifts over the last year. I guess I'll find out but sure hope most my issues are gone and feeling much better now.
I'm also aware of this other NLS shim.
So, if I end up needing a new clutch and flywheel after only 13k miles/1.5 years then I will definitely do the NLS shim kit as well! Time will tell.
Thanks a lot OP!! :thumbup:
This thread that was created over 5 years ago is still delivering today! I got my shim kit installed today after encountering the following issues not long after my break-in period on my aftermarket Spec Stage 2+ Clutch and 20lb Matching Spec flywheel.
I've been having the following problems. The clutch holds great though!
- Having issues with the car violently jerking frequently when downshifting and up shifting and not rev-matching. Especially into 2nd when downshifting! :banghead:
- Having occasional stuck in gear issue in 1st and reverse when first starting for the day. Also will sometimes occur after warmed up and shifting from 1st to 2nd.
- Having issue when first starting where clutch engages into gear before fully releasing the pedal for the first few shifts. After some shifting has occurred this symptom goes away after it's warmed up.
Installation went pretty smooth and I topped off a little gear oil since I had some from the last change after a little dripped out when removing the cover on my 2k5 Jetta GLI.
It was very nice out today and my problem seems to occur when it's colder out so I'll have to wait a few days to see.
After going driving today the engagement felt really good and I'm praying the violently jerking when downshifting is remedied. So far the shifts between gears seems much smoother and I'm very impressed! I just wish I would've found out about this sooner! I paid one of my trusted shops $270 to diagnose the issues above and they told me the following>
"Pressure plate Engagement is not 100%. Pressure Plate is grabbing on one point then has delayed engagement for the rest of plate." > Need new clutch/flywheel.
My other shop that installed my clutch said I needed a new clutch kit to have everything on hand and was going to drop the transmission again to the tune of $700+ labor + over 1k in parts! I'm hoping I didn't damage my current clutch and flywheel and transmission too bad with all the violent shifts over the last year. I guess I'll find out but sure hope most my issues are gone and feeling much better now.
I'm also aware of this other NLS shim.
So, if I end up needing a new clutch and flywheel after only 13k miles/1.5 years then I will definitely do the NLS shim kit as well! Time will tell.
Thanks a lot OP!! :thumbup:
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1,072 Posts
Spec stage 2.5. opened up my 02Q 2011 GTI and ZERO axial play with cap access ....
Stuck in first and second, rarely third. Random. Can double clutch fine or blip gas most times to get it out of gear.
Tried everything. Spec said I have a billet spacer built into my TOB... I checked through removing stater... I do have billet cap spacer.... Still have issue.
I guess I have to shim on inside .... Fml. This has to wait until spring now since no garage.
I just want to go stock.... Cheaper and forget tuning the car....
Stuck in first and second, rarely third. Random. Can double clutch fine or blip gas most times to get it out of gear.
Tried everything. Spec said I have a billet spacer built into my TOB... I checked through removing stater... I do have billet cap spacer.... Still have issue.
I guess I have to shim on inside .... Fml. This has to wait until spring now since no garage.
I just want to go stock.... Cheaper and forget tuning the car....
Hi,
Really, many thanks for the tip. The problem on my Seat Leon 1M 20vt is now solved, after 3 years and 60.000 km of using the car.
There was a grinding noise when changing from 4th to third gear. Thanks to this tip and only 13€ spent on the two pieces, the noise has completely disappeared and shifting is even smoother.
Thanks a lot!
Really, many thanks for the tip. The problem on my Seat Leon 1M 20vt is now solved, after 3 years and 60.000 km of using the car.
There was a grinding noise when changing from 4th to third gear. Thanks to this tip and only 13€ spent on the two pieces, the noise has completely disappeared and shifting is even smoother.
Thanks a lot!
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2 Posts
Someone to help about mk5
I was trying to find problem on mine mk5.It is 6 speed manual 2004 with 1.9 TDI BKC.I dont know gearbox code because mine sticker in trunk is gone.I have problems with my gearbox.Sometimes is like the gearbox refuses to go in 1st gear and it scrapes sometimes when i put it in reverse.But the main problem I have is the whining sound in 4,5 and 6th gear.I am really hoping that this shim kit is porblem.
I was trying to find problem on mine mk5.It is 6 speed manual 2004 with 1.9 TDI BKC.I dont know gearbox code because mine sticker in trunk is gone.I have problems with my gearbox.Sometimes is like the gearbox refuses to go in 1st gear and it scrapes sometimes when i put it in reverse.But the main problem I have is the whining sound in 4,5 and 6th gear.I am really hoping that this shim kit is porblem.
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4,495 Posts
I have read numerous threads lately on clutch issues, tranny issues, and even some of crank issues with later gen cars.
Since the pressure plate is fixed to the flywheel then it is independent of the throw out bearing/slave cylinder. Higher torque rated clutch kits have stronger pressure plates but if the PP is fixed to the flywheel then the force needed to disengage the clutch comes from the slave cylinder. That force is eventually transferred down the line and pushed against the crank. Any weakness in the crank bearings will cause the crank to eventually 'walk' away from the tranny. This leads to the clutch creep/dragging symptoms since the slave cylinder has to reach further. This problem would be totally unrelated to this 02m shim fix. The NLS shim for 02m slave cylinder would help here. But is the need of this NLS shim from poor tolerances on a new clutch setup, a weak or inferior slave not extending the full OEM length, or possibly crank walk.
To this simple 02m shim fix, to me is similar but not related. It develops from slack tolerances in transmission bearing seats. Heavy on/off throttle, in gear with clutch engaged, causes these bearings and shafts to slam back and forth increasing the tolerances and only exacerbating the problem if left unattended. Hard digs and dumped clutches can beat one side of the seats also due to the style of the cut on the gears. Any shifting issues 'fixed' from this shim would be internal and related to syncros and/or physical alignments corrected by pushing everything over and holding it in place again.
I personally enjoy engine braking. I love rev matching and letting it burble up to a redlight or stop sign. I usually roll to a stop in 3rd with a little brake but have very often gone from hammering on it to engine braking it at high RPMs in traffic because of no use of turn signals or just some Simple Jack with their phone in their face. I have done this shim install years ago and can't really say if I could tell a difference. I am in need of clutch now and will do a good visual inspection of my 02m when it's off and on the ground within the next few weeks hopefully.
Since the pressure plate is fixed to the flywheel then it is independent of the throw out bearing/slave cylinder. Higher torque rated clutch kits have stronger pressure plates but if the PP is fixed to the flywheel then the force needed to disengage the clutch comes from the slave cylinder. That force is eventually transferred down the line and pushed against the crank. Any weakness in the crank bearings will cause the crank to eventually 'walk' away from the tranny. This leads to the clutch creep/dragging symptoms since the slave cylinder has to reach further. This problem would be totally unrelated to this 02m shim fix. The NLS shim for 02m slave cylinder would help here. But is the need of this NLS shim from poor tolerances on a new clutch setup, a weak or inferior slave not extending the full OEM length, or possibly crank walk.
To this simple 02m shim fix, to me is similar but not related. It develops from slack tolerances in transmission bearing seats. Heavy on/off throttle, in gear with clutch engaged, causes these bearings and shafts to slam back and forth increasing the tolerances and only exacerbating the problem if left unattended. Hard digs and dumped clutches can beat one side of the seats also due to the style of the cut on the gears. Any shifting issues 'fixed' from this shim would be internal and related to syncros and/or physical alignments corrected by pushing everything over and holding it in place again.
I personally enjoy engine braking. I love rev matching and letting it burble up to a redlight or stop sign. I usually roll to a stop in 3rd with a little brake but have very often gone from hammering on it to engine braking it at high RPMs in traffic because of no use of turn signals or just some Simple Jack with their phone in their face. I have done this shim install years ago and can't really say if I could tell a difference. I am in need of clutch now and will do a good visual inspection of my 02m when it's off and on the ground within the next few weeks hopefully.
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