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Just had a Sachs OEM clutch kit installed last week and I've been having problems with clutch creep as well.

We bled the slave, seemed to help for a day then the symptoms came back.

Has this fix helped anyone yet?
 

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I just did this in my 05" GLI with the 02M 6 speed transmission. Like it was stated above, it took me 15 minutes. Removed drivers side wheel, the inner splash shield, and pulled the black cap off of the side of the transmission. Removed the large outer snap ring, installed shim, and reinstalled snap ring and new cover. Do not reuse the cover. It worked just as advertised. No more clutch creep or hard shifting. Fantastic news. I just ordered 2 more sets of the shim/cover to take care of the same problem on a couple R32's for customers. Parts are around $20 from the dealer.
 

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kometmotor, if you have those part numbers; please post them up, this type of information is needed, so we in the 02M community... can finally, start fixing these inherent issues and have our cars work as they should! Thanks! :)

Also, from your shop/tech experience with customers cars; are you installing the NLS shim kit or trying to upgrade the hydraulics to deal with this issue, long term? :confused:


Any info, experience and feedback appreciated! Any and all info; that can be compiled here, will hopefully help everyone in their pursuit of a functional clutch/02M trans combo! :peace:
 

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I did not install the NLS shim kit. The part numbers you need are at the top of this thread. Both are OEM VW numbers. Here they are again but credit goes to the person who originated this thread.

OEM part # WHT-001-976 is the shim
OEM part # 02M-301-211-B is the black cover that has to be removed to install it.

This is what I would install to eliminate the clutch creep. It worked perfectly on my 02M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Glad to hear this is working for others as it has worked for me. I've since performed this on a few more 02M boxes and it works wonderfully in every case.

I will post a pictorial DIY in a few days for those who are a little nervous about doing this on their own.

Jeff
 

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I just did this in my 05" GLI with the 02M 6 speed transmission. Like it was stated above, it took me 15 minutes. Removed drivers side wheel, the inner splash shield, and pulled the black cap off of the side of the transmission. Removed the large outer snap ring, installed shim, and reinstalled snap ring and new cover. Do not reuse the cover. It worked just as advertised. No more clutch creep or hard shifting. Fantastic news. I just ordered 2 more sets of the shim/cover to take care of the same problem on a couple R32's for customers. Parts are around $20 from the dealer.
YAY
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
satchimo, are you seeing this; on the earlier 02M's that DO NOT; have the external cover and would thus, require a trans pull, for this issue? Any info; appreciated! Thanks! :)
I'm afraid that's correct. Early/mid '03 and earlier 6 speed boxes do not have the black access cover and do not make use of the parts listed. It's entirely possible that there are clutch kits out there for 6 speeds that have poor design and require a little help in the form of the NLS shim. However, upon removal of your transmission to add the NLS shim (assuming that is your next plan of attack) check the mainshaft play at that point and see if it needs to be rebuilt. I just rebuilt an early 1.8t box (ironically code is FML) last week with bad mainshaft bearing scoring and about 1/16" axial play, so it does happen. Those early boxes use upper and lower taper roller bearings for the mains
haft instead of the later ball bearing and needle bearing in these later boxes.

Let me know if you need any part numbers or the parts themselves, I work for a company that can supply all this stuff.

keep us posted with your findings

jeff
 

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Thanks for your replay; I just rebuilt mine and put in all new bearings; I was not paying particular attention to this issue; as I was replacing all the bearings... as they were all scored from metal particulate in the gear oil from grinding gears and the classic 1st/2nd fork failure. If/when I pull the trans; I will check for beyond spec play. I am still; of the thought, that without a hydraulic master cylinder upgrade, we are going to continue to see this issue... until a "true" upgrade that deals with the core problem (hydraulic pressure is insufficient in stock form) is created by someone or implemented, some how. I hope; this is resolved somehow; by the aftermarket in some way, hydraulic failures (master, slave etc.) and insufficient performance seems to be a common "thread" throughout everyone's explanation of the issue. Please, someone... stop the insanity! :banghead:
 

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Best $20 I have spent on my car. Had a CM FX350 kit installed a few months back and it never felt right. After the car propelling itself through an intersection with the clutch pedal fully depressed, the shop replaced the master cylinder. Worked okay for about a week, so I replaced the bleeder block and OEM clutch line with a USP braided one, and bled the crap out of it. Same thing, after a few days of mediocre shifts and engagement it would get worse. A member of another forum informed me that satchimo had installed the washer on his 02M after suffering nearly the same problems. So figured what's to lose, ordered the parts up. Took longer to jack the car up and remove the front wheel that it actually took to install the washer.
Solved all my trans issues, now it shifts like it did when I first got the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
\ I am still; of the thought, that without a hydraulic master cylinder upgrade, we are going to continue to see this issue... until a "true" upgrade that deals with the core problem (hydraulic pressure is insufficient in stock form) is created by someone or implemented, some how.
I have never suspected the master-slave system to be at fault with the clutch creep issue, especially if the slave has been replaced and bled thoroughly. Properly bled hydraulic clutches are the best method of compressing the springs on a pressure plate; brake fluid is considered "incompressible" so long as there is no air or water in the system. They are also self adjusting, so long as there's sufficient fluid in the reservoir and a clean clutch master.

I use a pressure bleeder on every bleed job, and sometimes have to rebleed after a day or so on the odd job (irregular pedal height) but I have never encountered a clutch creep problem that was caused by "insufficient hydraulic pressure" yet.

jeff

afterthought:

The reason I believe the slave cylinders are more than capable and have sufficient travel to compress the pressure plate fingers is due to the fact that when installing these transmissions, I always have to push the box against the motor and hold it there while installing the bellhousing bolts. This is because of the spring loaded counterforce of the fully extended slave cylinder making contact with the pressure plate, which indicates the slave's travel exceeds the requirement to compress the pressure plate.

I suppose if one finds themselves in a situation where they don't feel "spring kickback" they are using a binding slave or have some other clutch issue. Always check the slave for good movement and travel, as some appear to be crooked and cocked sideways out of the box.

jeff
 

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Glad to hear this is working for others as it has worked for me. I've since performed this on a few more 02M boxes and it works wonderfully in every case.

I will post a pictorial DIY in a few days for those who are a little nervous about doing this on their own.

Jeff
That would be great! I'm really getting annoyed with this "clutch creep" issue!
 

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I spent a lot of time and money this winter rebuilding my 02M for the common whining on deceleration problem only to have it still making the noise.

I just ordered the parts and hopefully this will resolve the problem. If it does :thumbup: to the OP
 

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Just ordered the shim and cap as well. Can't hurt to try, seems to work so it's better than throwing away money on a new master cylinder.
 

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Got around to putting on the washer and new cap. Worked like a charm....so far.

Drove most of the afternoon running errands, no clutch creep at all and easier to get into first now.

:beer:
 

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Oh man, I just started having this problem with the creeping/hard shifting and was like, NOOOOO I don't want to pull the transmission out again!!! $20 and NOT pulling the tranny sounds much better :thumbup:
 

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Hi guys, I have the older type 02m and ot appears my tapered bearing race on the gearbox casing is sitting low and free spinning causing main shaft axial play. What fix shoud I try to aim for? A shim under the race? Any genius ways to extract race? Could I locktite it back in position after determining shim to take up slack? Really appreciate any help.
 

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I have a similar old trans, like you; I haven't check or dealt with the problem yet. To remove the race; you can weld on the race itself and it will drop out. That would require a replacement and you probably would want to replace the roller bearing as well; which might be a good idea, considering the problem you are having. If you want to reuse the race; the bentley, does show a specific puller to remove the races, I think it is made by kukko and a shop online does offer it for rental, you might be able to fabricate a tool of some sort. In my case; I was replacing all the bearings during my rebuild; so, I just welded on the face of the race with a mig and they dropped out from the shrinkage/heat.

There are some threads; where people drill a hole in the case and put a set screw to keep the race in place; aptuning, also seems to have a fix, you might contact them for more info.

http://www.aptuning.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=12&Itemid=8
 
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