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So let me get this straight, I own an OBD1 mk3 with an ABA.
I also have a 16v head, and one of the compatable mk4 2.0 blocks.

If what I've read here is correct then I can merge those two components (machine 9a pistons to clear squirters, & block passages), change the hall window in the dizzy and have a "plug and play" engine?
Granted hoses may be different, and connectors may be different. But is that really it?

Or, do I need to convert to OBD2 ABA management first :confused:
 
So let me get this straight, I own an OBD1 mk3 with an ABA.
I also have a 16v head, and one of the compatable mk4 2.0 blocks.

If what I've read here is correct then I can merge those two components (machine 9a pistons to clear squirters, & block passages), change the hall window in the dizzy and have a "plug and play" engine?
Granted hoses may be different, and connectors may be different. But is that really it?

Or, do I need to convert to OBD2 ABA management first :confused:
Why not simply use the ABA?
 
For reasons posted at the start of the thread...?
I've already done the aba16vt thing.

I don't want to buy more pistons when 9A ones just need some minor machining to clear the squirters.

Sent from my HTC One M9
Going through this frankenstien setup with machined 9a pistons is a waste of time IMO. If you have interest in making real power then stock cast 9a pistons won't get you there. In fact even if you want to make moderate power... you still need all the things listed at the beginning of this thread, plus a handful of other things (most of which are listed throughout this thread).

If you already have an ABA 16vT then this doesn't make much sense to me. If you're building a motor for a newer car MK4+ then yes it makes sense, or if you're starting from scratch as it's easy to find 06x blocks.
 
Going through this frankenstien setup with machined 9a pistons is a waste of time IMO. If you have interest in making real power then stock cast 9a pistons won't get you there. In fact even if you want to make moderate power... you still need all the things listed at the beginning of this thread, plus a handful of other things (most of which are listed throughout this thread).

If you already have an ABA 16vT then this doesn't make much sense to me. If you're building a motor for a newer car MK4+ then yes it makes sense, or if you're starting from scratch as it's easy to find 06x blocks.
The ABA16vt is in a different car.

I have a complete 9A that's already in dire need of refurbishing (with more heads at the ready), mk4 blocks are everywhere now, and sourcing 9A/ABA gear in good shape is getting tiresome.
If I were looking to make 'real power' I wouldn't be concerned about any of this, and would be running standalone talking with Issam/Russ/Whomever about a fancy head and bottom end arrangement.

I want to plug&play a mildly cammed 16v into stock the Motronic setup of an OBD1 (or OBD2 if required) ABA-equipped MK3.
If the only real machine work needed is that of the stock 9A pistons to clear the squirters, then that is cheaper to have done than trying to make an external trigger setup work on a 9A.

As far as I can tell I need the following to make a Plug&Play OBD1 06X16v:

06X Block
  • AZG headgasket
  • Oil squirter ports blocked
  • 9A Rods & Pistons, 06X 2.Slow Crank
    • Machine 9A Pistons for Clearance
  • ARP Head Studs
  • AZG Tensioner & Spacer
  • Lexus Timing Belt
PL/9A 16v Head
  • 16v Dizzy window swapped for ABA window
  • AZG Cam gear
MISC
  • OBD1 ABA Throttlebody adapter for 16v Manifold
  • The usual digi-style fuel rail, fpr, & injector swap
  • Maybe some minor things I'm missing

All I need to know is if there are any 06X related bits I am forgetting.
 
You need a late model 1.8t cam sprocket also. Also if your going through the trouble of having pistons cut down, you may as well have the reliefs cut in them to keep the oil squirters.

As you can see your list is growing compared to simply running a crank sensor on your 9a.

If you do decide to go with the 06x16v setup. I have a brand new set of the required ARP headstuds for this conversion in the box for another one I was building. I ended up doing something different so they never got used.
 
You need a late model 1.8t cam sprocket also. Also if your going through the trouble of having pistons cut down, you may as well have the reliefs cut in them to keep the oil squirters.

As you can see your list is growing compared to simply running a crank sensor on your 9a.

If you do decide to go with the 06x16v setup. I have a brand new set of the required ARP headstuds for this conversion in the box for another one I was building. I ended up doing something different so they never got used.
Cam sprocket is no big dealio.
In regard to the pistons, having the reliefs cut is what I meant to punch in~

The list can grow, that's no big deal.

An external setup typically costs around $220usd + shipping + duty. I'd rather simplify and not need that.

Sent from my HTC One M9
 
I posted this in another thread, but figured I should at least share it with the 16V forum as a little knowledge or history:

I was talking with a buddy yesterday and ended up picking up this from him. Somewhat rare-ish, but definitely getting hard to find these days is the 93 (12/92-10/93) 9A head, which is what became the ABF 16V head, but without the better intake cam. There were three heads used in the USA, the 1.8 PL head, the 2.0 9A head and this one, the late 2.0 9A head. Very few 93 Passat 16V cars were made and the ABF started production for the European market 08/92. The ABF casting, which by the way, has the same casting number as the early 9A (051 103 373 D), makes it almost an Easter Egg hunt, as you won't know until you look at it. The advantage if this casting is the ports are a big improvement over the PL & previous 9A castings. The ports are cleaner and with the addition of pulsed injection and the improved intake cam, more HP was gained.













It will go nicely with this piece I picked up last month



Here is a pic of the last ABF head that I had, which is now on my buddy Fred's Mk1 GTI. Notice the valve cover differences. The spark plug hole bosses are angled, not flat and the two center cover bolts are recessed even more and held on by nuts, not bolts. The gasket is also different by the way, the cam caps on the outer ends are grooved like the 8V engines to help retain the gasket in place (something you won't see until you pull the cover off).

 
i had a 93 passat 16v from a candian diplomat that brought it home after his tour in germany.

i parted out that car without knowing what i had.

this explains why that car came factory equipped with a 50 mm intake; no wide open throtle switch.

the distributor shown ; looks very similar to the audi pt code unit. i am glad i picked up 4 of those last summer
 
06F-16V for Mk1 Project

Hello all!
First, wanting to thank Issam for starting this thread and all who have replied with technical content. The information here has inspired the engine build for my Mk1 Project. I've decided to use an 06F(BPY) engine block with FSI crankshaft for the bottom end of my Hybrid 16V. I have a couple of questions regarding the 06F block:

Why does this engine block have cast main bearing caps and not billet main bearing caps as others have stated is a feature of the FSI/BPY 2.0 engine?

What prevents crankcase pressure from leaking at the engine block oil drains where the 16V cylinder head and head gasket (I'll be using AZG head gasket) mate at the cylinder head/engine block part line if there is no cylinder head material overhanging this area to clamp the head gasket?

Bottom side of 06F engine block:


9A 16V cylinder head mocked up on 06F engine block:



Engine block oil drains with 9A 16V cylinder head on BPY head gasket:
 
Discussion starter · #572 ·
Hello all!
First, wanting to thank Issam for starting this thread and all who have replied with technical content. The information here has inspired the engine build for my Mk1 Project. I've decided to use an 06F(BPY) engine block with FSI crankshaft for the bottom end of my Hybrid 16V. I have a couple of questions regarding the 06F block:

Why does this engine block have cast main bearing caps and not billet main bearing caps as others have stated is a feature of the FSI/BPY 2.0 engine?

What prevents crankcase pressure from leaking at the engine block oil drains where the 16V cylinder head and head gasket (I'll be using AZG head gasket) mate at the cylinder head/engine block part line if there is no cylinder head material overhanging this area to clamp the head gasket?

Bottom side of 06F engine block:
I wouldn't have used the 06F block. Remove the crankshaft and find an 06A block.
With the 06F block you are going to need:
  • adapter plate for 1.8T oil filter housing ($$)
  • drilling and tapping the block for 06A oil pump (also $$$)

But to answer your questions:
- No 06F block came with billet main caps. Thats an urban myth.
- The AZG head gasket will cover the 3 rear oil return channels so you are good there.
 
hi all i have a G60 corrado with i done a 16VG60 on it i,ve thought about puting a 20v in it so i bought a bam 20v now i thinking about this
my main question is i have a set of 83mm BBM Spec, Custom Forged Pistons
BBM Spec, Scat Billet 4340 H-beam forged connecting rods, set of four rods, ARP 2000 rod bolts installed.

the rods are 144x20mm
pistons are ross racing pistons 16v 8:0:1 Compression Ratio
this kit is for a pg block 16v head

wot do the experts on here think about this set of pistions & rods fitting in an 06a block
 
Back from the dead again...
As a winter project I have started this conversion from my current 9A. Found a good AVH block and have it dissembled.
This is just a replacement block for my current stock 9A NA setup.
I understand I will have to bring my current 9A pistons and one of the AVH pistons to the machine shop to get the oil squirter reliefs cut into the correct side of the piston.
I hope someone can answer the other questions that were not clear to me after reading this entire thread.

- How do I use the AVH block crankcase breather system? The AVH engine (from 2001 jetta) had the crankcase breather system coming out of the valve cover. Is there a factory VW that used the block crankcase breather system?

- Will the #4 9A stock piston clear the AVH stock trigger wheel on the crankshaft with no modification from the machine shop?

- What camshaft gear to I use? (part number please)

- What timing belt and tensioner do I use?

- Are the ARP head studs still available? If so, how do I order these?

Thank you,
Michael
 
Discussion starter · #577 ·
  1. - How do I use the AVH block crankcase breather system? The AVH engine (from 2001 jetta) had the crankcase breather system coming out of the valve cover. Is there a factory VW that used the block crankcase breather system?
  2. - Will the #4 9A stock piston clear the AVH stock trigger wheel on the crankshaft with no modification from the machine shop?
  3. - What camshaft gear to I use? (part number please)
  4. - What timing belt and tensioner do I use?
  5. - Are the ARP head studs still available? If so, how do I order these?
Answers:
  1. You can use the Beetle crankcase breather (06A103465) or tap your 16V valve cover (I suggest welding in a small breather box on the inside of the valve cover)
  2. Depends on the build date. I typically turn all 4 on a lathe to bring them shorter and within the same weight.
  3. Stock 06A unit from a 1.8T. Use can't use the AVH one due to the impulse ring (unless you modify the 16V head for camshaft position which would be pointless since you can just take camshaft position off the distirbutor on the back of the head)
  4. Timing belt was posted multiple pages ago. It is from the Toyota 2GZ-GE engine / Lexus .
  5. Yes , send an email all though reading your build thread you have ;)
 
Man, this thread was a great read. Thanks for all your info Issam. Glad I logged back in after a many year break.

Makes me reconsider the pile of ABA/9a parts and forged what nots I have sitting.I did bore my block to the 83.5mm for wiseco pistons.
 
Can anyone explain what work is needed to use a 2.0 fsi block and bottom end. It seems like would be a cheap option that could hold more power then stock 9a stuff but cost less then buying forged pistons and rods.
There is no difference in strength between the 1.8t block, rods and pistons compared to the FSI. All the same work is required that's listed in this thread. A couple more things required really if trying to use the FSI block simply due to the oil pump which you'd want to switch to the older style.
 
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