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I was asked to provide some information to a fellow memeber on the location and function of the Solenoids in the 09A trans. So here are scans of the information I have. I know they are big but that way you can save them to your computer and print them out for future use if need be.








Here are the torque specs for the valve body 8 Nm
Trans Pan to trans 8 Nm
Multifunction Switch to trans 5 Nm
I will follow up with electrical specs on the solenoids when I get more time.
Here is the electrical info to test your tranny







Modified by coolvdub at 5:21 PM 9-30-2007


Modified by coolvdub at 3:41 PM 10-7-2007
Got a question. I am tying to pinn out the harness and solenoids and this sheet is confusing. on the ledgar it says 64 Vacant but should be for N283. Below it instructs for resistance it says test 65 + 1 for N283. Is this a mistake?

Then I saw this diagram and it looks wrong also. Super confused
http://www.drivehq.com/web/jfenley/Transmission_Pin-out_JF506E.pdf

Figure 9 looks correct 65 is 16 on t20b for the N283 which i confirmed. But on on figure 9 it says to test 18 &17 for N283.

I have 2002 Jetts 1.8T 09A Tiptronic throwing codes of

00349 - Solenoid Valve 10 (N283) 29-00 - Short to Ground.

I ohmed it and it is reading 1.1 to 1.3 so far from TCM plug to T20b wire on pin 65 is good. I have a pig tale from the junkyard and want to tes direct to trans t20b. Anybody understand the two the problems with the pictures and on this page and one on Figure 8?
 

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I remember checking all my solenoids using the chart that shows N283 wired between ground (pin 1) and pin 65 (using the same chart you show). I can't understand the other references, unless it's on the transmission connector - the .pdf document covers a lot of vehicles other than a VW 09a, so be very careful about using it And as low as the solenoid coil resistance is on N283, you'll want to be very sure that you're not reading a little high due to a low multimeter battery (short the leads and make sure it really reads zero ohms).
 

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Yea for sure new batteries in the tester mad a big dif.. Same problem still. Took out the Bat cleaned all grounds really good. One thing i noticed that is strange you can get 3-4 sets of different readings Ohming the harness. example 65-1
2.4ohms first thing in the morning no battery connected
0.0 ohm bat connected with door open
1.5 ohm after interior light goes off
0.0 ohm if i open the door or turn key on.
0.0 ohm after I close the door and dome light off still 0.0 ohm
1.7 ohm if i disconnect the bat the reading

Any thoughts???
 

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I'm at a loss how the readings would change at all, unless you're doing it different that I"m assuming you are. The readings should be done on the TCU connector, which should be the source of the only wires going to the transmission - so opening doors, turning on keys or sacrificing a goat should have no effect on the readings you get. Basically, you're reading a "cold circuit" with no power applied to anything remotely near the circuits you're testing.
 

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That was my thought. So, this Sunday, it's time to replace all 9 and do the 2nd fluid change. Hopefully nothing is burnt out or worn, but with 230k, I think I'm just prolonging the inevitable. Found a smoking deal on the 9, so I'm looking at $350 for two fluid changes and the solenoids, so even if it only lasts a year or two, that's good.

All set! Going in from the front was WAY easier.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...524645403839.157711.1503245764&type=1&theater

Took me about 40 min to disassemble the front end and get the radiator out of the way, but cleaning up the area and insuring zero contamination was WAY easier. Replaced all 9 in 10 min once I was in there. 100% success, no more shift issues at all.
 

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All set! Going in from the front was WAY easier.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...524645403839.157711.1503245764&type=1&theater

Took me about 40 min to disassemble the front end and get the radiator out of the way, but cleaning up the area and insuring zero contamination was WAY easier. Replaced all 9 in 10 min once I was in there. 100% success, no more shift issues at all.
Can you repost those pictures via Imgur links? Can't see your facebook photos because we're not friends.
 

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Hello guys!

can you help me?

I have a problem with my VW transmission, reverse not working. It starts working after several kilometres of drive. Can you tell me which of the solenoids may be damaged?

Sorry for my poor English.
 

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All (9)-09A Solenoids Replaced

Hello,

This is my first post. I wanted to share my appreciation for all the helpful threads there were on this issue. I was going to go right to replacing a transmission. The day before i was going to get is diaged, i found all these threads on the solenoids. My 2006 VW GOLF 1.9 PD TDI BEW has issues shifting from third to fourth. With extreme downshifts into third at 4th gear RPM's. Well after all the research i went ahead and ordered the solenoids from Cobratransmisson. Later installed them with new ATF fluid.I removed the whole front bumper/radiator support and radiator. I found this the easiest way to access the panel and remove/install solenoids. The car had 209,916 when I did this service my self. SO far have put 200 miles on it and no issues. car feels practically brand new. I will give a update on the car as i rack up the miles. Figured i would share my success stories with others. thanks.





 

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Hello guys!

can you help me?

I have a problem with my VW transmission, reverse not working. It starts working after several kilometres of drive. Can you tell me which of the solenoids may be damaged?

Sorry for my poor English.
N90.

But you should change them all.
 

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After reading all these different tiptronic posts, I finally ordered the solenoid set and went ahead and replaced them. Thanks to these posts, everything went pretty straight forward. It just gets a little messy trying to keep track of everything with all the wiring when replacing all of the solenoids.

My original problem was the hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4, this progressively got worse over the past few months. I have only had the car running about 8-9 months. Original owner let the timing belt go too long and I got that fixed the beginning of last summer.

Well, after getting everything back together late last night, I took it for a spin, and what an amazing difference! Everything seemed to shift great and smooth all the way through gears 1-5.

Parked it back in the shop last night and had to button up a few loose ends. After that this morning, I went to drive the car, and backed it out and had no problem.

When I went to take off, put it in Drive, and the car wouldn't go anywhere. No forward gears at all. I revved it up higher, and it seemed to try and move a little, like there was low pressure.

There is also a little rattle (between 1200 and 1800 RPM), which sounds like it is coming from under the valve cover near the timing belt end of the head. Not related though, I'm sure.

Does anyone have any ideas why this would happen and not have any forward gears after working great last night and functioning great?

I am going to check the resistance on the new solenoids through the harness later this week when I have time.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.
have you solved your problem of no forward gears? I have same problem of no forward gears in the morning.
 

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1.8 turbo 03 gti

Can some some one help me i replace my silenoids as u told me on another question and now my trans is shifting great but i didnt see when i took off valve body in what position does the sliding pin spose to be in be cause no i dont have reverse ithink i put sliding pin on wrong position can u help??????????????????????????????:)
 

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Did you know you didn't need to remove the VB to replace the solenoids? I would assume your saying that you didn't get the manual valve in correctly? If you have drive and neutral then this isn't the case.

One of the solenoids can cause no reverse. I wonder if you messed it up somehow??
 

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1.8 turbo gti 03 auto trans bv siledoids

i dont have neutral only drive and and yesturday i took of again and kind put the manual valve in to onother positon and now its on 3rd just need to know exactly were to put the sliding valve correctly??????????
 

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The manual valve needs to hook into the linkage and move as the shifter is moved. With the VB off have a helper move the shifter, while you watch inside the trans. You'll see the "lever" move and it will be obvious how it needs to hook into the manual valve. IIRC you then place the shifter in to the "2" position and then install the VB with the manual valve sticking out of the left side 3mm. Then after you put two VB bolts in to hold the VB then have your helper move the shifter again and you should be able to see that 3mm part of the VB move. If it doesn't move as your helper moves the shifter then you dont have the linkage hooked into the manual valve and you need to do it again.

FYi.. I said left. This means left side of car judged from sitting in the drivers seat.
 

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It sounds like you might have overfilled the transmission. How much fluid did you put back into it? There is a very precise proceedure to follow to refill the trans.

1) Fill to base (4 L I think, but look it up)
2) Warm up the trans till Vag-Com shows the temp is up to operational level
3) Open the fill port. If it leaks out, it's over full and let it leak till it stops. If it doesn't, add more till it does dribble out.

Again, sorry, but I'm at work and don't have the quantity handy here, but if you run it over full, you can damage things just as much as if you run it low.

Eric
 

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I'm new to this but when you say to check the ohms what are steps. How do you set that up? I have a multimeter.
Thanks for any info.
 
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