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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DIY Automatic transmission (09G) service/ fluid and filter change

Thanks to Hindsight at passatworld.com, I used some of his pictures. This is for instructional use, I do not assume any responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person. That said my car is at 150Kmi with never a problem with the transmission, this was my third time to do this service. For clarity this is for the 09G 6 speed Automatic triptronic transmission. Mine happens to be hooked up to a 2.5L in a 2006 Jetta.

What you will need:

5 mm allen wrench (and/or T30 Torx wrench)
10 mm socket w/ ratchet and extension (3/8 drive)
3ft. 5/8” ID clear vinyl tubing or 3/4” ID flexible hose and hose clamp
Funnel
IR thermometer or VAG-COM device
Small Rod of some sort, or flat head screwdriver
Cleaning solution
Rags
Catch Pan
4-6 quarts ATF
AT filter kit
VAS 6262/2 (pictured in step 8; Optional, if you have a fill port)
I have also heard of people using an M10x1 to Hose barb fitting, cutting M10x1 threads in a small pipe, and drilling a hole through an M10x1 bolt. If you are going to do this the threaded end of your device must match the threads on your drain plug or you will damage your pan (I have read the drain plug is M10x1 threaded, but I have never checked myself) I have no experience with this I have always used my fill port. Also if your using this tool/method you can disregard the tubing/flexible hose listed above, I do not know what size or how long the necessary tubing is for this step, but you will need tubing of some sort.

1. Jack up the car or the front at least and place your catch pan. The drain plug is a stainless steel plug located towards the rear right-hand side of the transmissions oil pan, you will need to determine by gaining view of your drain plugs socket, if your drain plug uses a T30 Torx or 5mm allen wrench.

2. If you are going to fill through the transmission fill port with the red snap ring (pictured below) keep reading :) If you are going to fill through the drain port (using VAS 6262/2 or equivalent) skip to step 3.



You will need to release the snap ring either by inserting something small (in my case the end of a circuit probe (pictured below)), or split open the ring with a flat head screwdriver.



To pull the fill plug out of the fill port it may be necessary to remove the harness bracket that is bolted onto the lower starter bolt. As you can see in picture 1 it is very close and gets in the way. I don’t remove it b/c it is one more thing to forget so if you’re like me it is possible to work around. After removing the fill plug you may want to place a rag over the fill port opening.

I decided to spring for new fill and drain plugs, snap-ring, and crush washer from the dealer (pictured below), this is my third time to do this and the snap-ring and drain and fill plugs were getting worn out. A new crush washer is not an option, as the name indicates the old crush washer will be spent upon removal. I have never used anything but the crush washer from the dealer so I cannot vouch for replacing it with an copper or aluminum washer…



3. Back to the drain plug now, insert your wrench and remove the drain plug. Above the drain plug there is a stand pipe, the picture below depicts the stand-pipe and old drain plug in orientation of assembly, on the left side; the old fill plug and snap ring are to the right.



Remove the standpipe by inserting the 5mm allen wrench into the drain port in the transmission oil pan and unscrewing it in the same rotational direction as to remove the drain plug. (See picture below) Allow transmission fluid to drain.



4 Next unbolt the transmission pan and remove it from the transmission. There are 8 10mm bolts located around the perimeter of the pan (see picture in step 5). I find it helpful to hold the pan up against the transmission with one hand and remove the bolts with the other hand. When pulling the pan down from the transmission keep it as level as possible. There will still be some fluid in the pan.

5 Upon removing the pan from the transmission take note of the 2 rectangular magnets in the deep section of the pan, one near the drain plug the other more forward and to the Left-hand side. Also remove the old gasket from the pan, but take note also of the metal spacers in the gasket. Not all AT filter kits come with new spacers, if your kit does not include these, remove them from the old gasket, clean and place in new gasket. Clean the pan and magnets thoroughly. Replace in pan the magnets and standpipe. If filling through the fill port replace drain plug with OLD crush washer; Only hand tight the drain plug it need not be torqued in at this time. If filling though drain port leave drain plug out at this time. Place the new gasket with spacers on pan, it’s asymmetrical so it will only fit one way and the skirts on the gasket should hold it on the pan. Picture below for reference



6 The filter is bolted towards the rear of the valve body of the transmission with 3 10mm flange head bolts, remove the transmission filter. See picture below



Keep the catch pan under the filter when removing it, there is fluid trapped behind the filter that will pour out when the filter comes loose. Once the filter is removed, thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces of the filter and pan. I also gently wipe off any hanging transmission fluid at this time. Install the new filter with the 2 irregular shape cork surrounded holes (picture below) not visible or facing up, and the rectangular slot facing down and visible. Then reinstall the cleaned transmission oil pan, with new gasket.



7 Preparing to fill the transmission, if you are filling through the drain port (with VAS 6262/2 or equivalent) skip to step 8. If you are using the fill port slip your hose over the fill port, (pictured below). If you are using 5/8” ID vinyl, you will need to heat the end of the tube to get it to expand enough to fit over the fill port. I VERY CAREFULLY dip it in a cup of hot water.



I clamp the tube on to the fill port, but only hand tight with a screwdriver b/c I use the smaller diameter tubing the clamp is more for my own peace of mind than to make a seal (pictured below) If you use ¾” ID tubing, you will need to clamp with force, I do not know how tight to clamp as I have never used this size tubing. My reason for considering ¾” ID tubing is when I measure the fill port on its ridge with a slide caliper its diameter measured 0.77in. OD.



Route the hose towards the top of the engine bay between the motor and radiator and insert the funnel into the end of the hose. (pictured below)



8 If filling through the drain port, attach VAS 6262/2 (pictured below) or equivalent to the drain port



Once attached slip a tube over the open end of the VAS 6262/2 or equivalent tool. The other end of the tube may be attached to a fill cap (pictured below), or a funnel can be placed at this end.



9 Before adding new fluid to the transmission I pour my old fluid in to an old oil bottle to gauge roughly how much to add. 4 quarts came out (pictured below) so I will be adding about 5 quarts.



Once you have an idea about how much fluid to add start pouring



Or squeeze your fluid in :p



10 Once done filling the transmission with fluid if using the fill port: unclamp and remove hose-funnel assembly, insert fill plug and replace red snap-ring (I fill mine until it can take no more, 5 quarts, pictured below).



If you are filling through the drain port you can either pull the hose off the VAS 6262/2 or equivalent tool and plug it with something; or unscrew/remove the VAS 6262/2 tool and replace drain plug with OLD crush washer. (I could see this getting messy :-/)

11 If you have not made the car level in both planes front to rear and left to right now is the time to do so. It is also time to break out the IR Thermometer, or if you have one hook up your VAG-COM device. If you are using a VAG-COM device you will need to make viewable the transmission fluid temperature. I do not have a VAG-COM device so I do not know how to do this. Also you will need to need to place your VAG-COM device where the transmission fluid temperature is viewable from underneath the car.

12 Start the motor, allow the motor RPM to drop below 1000 RPM. Place your foot on the brake and set the parking brake. Shift though all the gears, leaving the transmission in each gear for at least 10 seconds. Then return the transmission to Park.

13 Exit the vehicle, leaving the motor running and get your IR Thermometer or VAG-COM device, catch pan, and 5mm Allen or T30 Torx wrench and go under the car with the motor still running. Note this is DANGEROUS please be very cautious when doing this. Place your catch pan under the drain plug. See picture below



14 The goal here is to make the transmission fluid level with the top of the standpipe when the fluid is at 40[SUP]o[/SUP]C with the engine running and having previously shifted through the gears. The drain port can be opened between 35[SUP]o[/SUP]C and 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C. Also b/c I use an IR Thermometer I measure the temperature of the transmission fluid at the pan. I like to take the temperature at several places on the pan and use the average. B/c I overfill the transmission by an entire quart I remove the drain plug at 35[SUP]o[/SUP]C and the fluid pours out. Usually about 42[SUP]o[/SUP]C the fluid no longer drips from the drain port (at this point I proceed to step 15) . This may differ slightly for your car. If your transmission fluid temperature exceeds 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C while excess fluid is draining, IMMEDIATELY replace the drain plug with OLD crush washer. Turn off the motor, and allow transmission fluid temperature to cool to below 40[SUP]o[/SUP]C, and then repeat steps 12-14.

15 With the fluid no longer draining, or dripping very slowly (depending on how rough your motor idles), and the temperature of the transmission fluid not exceeding 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C Install the drain plug with NEW crush washer and torque down. Test drive and check for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Has anyone found this helpfull? Just looking for some feedback, I have never been a part of a forum or made a post before... This is my first
 

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Has anyone found this helpfull? Just looking for some feedback, I have never been a part of a forum or made a post before... This is my first
samarra85k5, of course it is very useful your thread.- I am waiting for the replacement parts to carry on this job.

I have a question, ¿ why did you disconnected the battery ?

A comment, if you drained 4 Qts of oil, you can refill only 4 Qts, or not?
Thanks a lot for your valuable guide
 

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You have filling hole on top of tanny? I though it's not possible to fill from top.
Replacing half of the fluid make sense.After replacing 3-4qt fluid still be dark and dirty.
We need flush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
samarra85k5, of course it is very useful your thread.- I am waiting for the replacement parts to carry on this job.

I have a question, ¿ why did you disconnected the battery ?

A comment, if you drained 4 Qts of oil, you can refill only 4 Qts, or not?
Thanks a lot for your valuable guide
I disconnected my battery b/c I was also changing my vacumme pump, at this time. It was gnarly. You could totally do this service with the battery intact. Also you can fill only 4 quarts back in if that is the amount you drain. its my personal preference to over-fill the transmission, and then drain the excess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You have filling hole on top of tanny? I though it's not possible to fill from top.
Replacing half of the fluid make sense.After replacing 3-4qt fluid still be dark and dirty.
We need flush.
Yes I have a filler port. Its not really at the top of the trans. Its more like midway up the front of the casing. As pictured in the DIY guide, if you have one you cannot miss it with the red snap ring and all. I learned part way through editing this posting that only the early MK5s have the filler port. My best guess is that the filler port was eliminated with the introduction of the MK5.5 with the updated electronics, dash display, radio etc...

I have serviced my transmission as indicated in this thread, religously every 50,000 miles, even when VW was still claiming these units are lifetime sealed. The old fluid that drains from my trans. is a darker red than the new stuff I pour in. The drained fluid is still translucent and does not appear particularly dirty. However my drained fluid fluid does exhibit foaming which indicates to me that it is losing it lubricating properties and is in my opinion spent. For reference I have only used genuine VW fluid in my transmission, I have used aftermarket filters, and seen no change in performance.

The only way I know to do a "Flush" on this particular model transmission is to repeat the process indicated in this thread. My reasoning for this is most transmissions have a transmission fluid cooler located inside the vehicles radiator with transmission fluid lines running to and from the transmission and radiator. In a true flush these lines are disconnected allowing either the transmission own fluid pump, or an external pump (fluid exchange machine) used to put new fluid into the transmission, while old fluid is expelled through their respective line. With this model transmission there is a cooler however it is located on the transmission, its canister shaped and located at the top rear or the transmission casing, it is bolted directly to the transmission and has coolant lines running to and from it. Total Bummer
 

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This is exactly what I was looking for. Rolled over 93k experiencing a little slip. Hoping that a nice pan, magnet, filter, and fluid service helps. Thanks a ton for putting in the extra effort and documenting + posting this!
 

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I went to a VW dealer today to pick up the odd part. Incase anyone else cares:

1) Crush washers were $4.40 each.
2) Filter $47 (I purchased an aftermarket one online for much less).
3) Sump gasket $47 (I purchased one for $19 + $10 shipping, aftermarket).
4) Red tamper ring which some cars have was $3 I think.

So in general the VW OEM parts are expensive, but perhaps the filter for $47 isn't too bad when my aftermarket is about $30 delivered and will take a week to arrive. I'd like to get into the sump plug washer manufacturing business.

I looked and looked at the fluids, and found significant information stating that Valvoline's full synthetic ATF fluid is suitable, and was about $17 / gallon at Wal-Mart. So I went with that. I figure as the oil change only does half the fluid anyway, that running some Valvoline in the transmission for a few months with help wash out the remaining fluid and I can do a final fluid change for something like the Fuch's fluid then if I still feel the need.
 

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I assume you drain the overfill by taking off the outer drain plug, but leave the inner drain plug in tact?
 

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I have an ELM Bluetooth OBDII scanner what works with the torque app, its reads the trans fluid temperature in real time. This should be enough info right? Also, where exactly is that filler port located? I also have a 2006 2.5 and i fail to see it. And what it the normal temp of the tranny? with the car running for a while it was 74c
 

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I have an idea. Why not heat the transmission fluid to 40-45C in the microwave prior to filling into the transmission. That way I would not have to buy that expensive temperature measuring device (VAGCOM). I still would have to start the car and run through the gears quickly to ensure no air bubbles or unfilled areas existed. Does that sound reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I believe the inner drain plug you are referring to is what I call the standpipe. You would remove the outer drain plug but leave the inner stand pipe in place, this standpipe controls the level of fluid in the transmission and without it the transmission will not have enough fluid
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have an ELM Bluetooth OBDII scanner what works with the torque app, its reads the trans fluid temperature in real time. This should be enough info right? Also, where exactly is that filler port located? I also have a 2006 2.5 and i fail to see it. And what it the normal temp of the tranny? with the car running for a while it was 74c
If it tells you the transmission fluid temp. in real time your good! At the time I made this post, it was my knowledge that only Vag-Com tools could convey that information. The filler port is located on the front of the transmission casing about the middle (top to bottom) it is possible you dont have one, in this case you would fill through the drain port as indicated in the post. It seems you have determined the normal running temp of the transmission. If I had to guess I would say the transmission runs marginally cooler or the same temp as the engine during normal driving conditions. However this normal running temp. is not relevant to performing this service as the fluid level is checked at 40C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have an idea. Why not heat the transmission fluid to 40-45C in the microwave prior to filling into the transmission. That way I would not have to buy that expensive temperature measuring device (VAGCOM). I still would have to start the car and run through the gears quickly to ensure no air bubbles or unfilled areas existed. Does that sound reasonable?
This is a very interesting Idea. I have 2 questions to raise about this:

1. Microwaves work by exiting the water molecules in whatever is placed within them, the water molecules move about bumping into their surroundings it is this bumping action that heats your food, or whatever is placed within them. I understand transmission fluid is a bit different, but I dont think petroleum products with the exception of brake fluid can contain or sequester water within them, the water separates out into a separate layer. This means that even though oils are a liquid, they are "dry" in the sense they do not contain water. Is it possible to even heat up transmission fluid (or any petroleum oil) in a microwave? :confused: If you can heat it up with a microwave can you bring it to 40C without the plastic container melting?:facepalm:

2. Unless the ambient temperate is 40C which is about 100F (this would afford you the convenience of not needing to heat the transmission fluid), all of the parts of the transmission are at a much lower temperature meaning due to the lack of thermal expansion the "space" alloted for your transmission fluid is smaller, coupled with the fact that as soon as the engine is started the transmission cooler which is a heat ex-changer with the cooling system would begin cooling your transmission fluid below 40C causing rapid temperature variation in the fluid itself. The means by which you are setting the fluid level is on a volumetric scale and it is unclear to me with all the temperature gradients how you could obtain the correct fluid level? :screwy: Not to mention there is still about 3-4 quarts of fluid you cannot get out of the transmission that would cool the hot fluid immediately upon entry to the transmission.

My best suggestion for not buying a Vag-Com tool is to use a IR Thermometer as indicated in the thread or Mars2012jetta talks about an Elm (brand) obd2 bluetooth scanner with the Torque smartphone app that tells you the transmission temp in realtime, perhaps you could correspond with Mars2012jetta for more details on this scan tool:popcorn:
 

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After fill up run engine for 2 minutes and You reach 40C.
I assume you are starting with a cold engine at an ambient temperature of around 72-75F? If so that is very helpful information. Please clarify. Usually I like to warm up the car to normal operating temperature before changing fluids. What would be the engine run time assuming a warmed up engine and the 72-75F ambient temperature? (also assuming addition of 72-75F fluid)
 
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