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Thanks for the pointers

There's a question at the bottom. I just wanted to recap my version of the 09G oil and filter change. NOT HOW **YOU** SHOULD DO IT! Just how I did it.

Just did the change today. No symptoms, but it's way over due from when I figured I'd change it in 2008, ~100kmiles. That was when it was still 'unlimited'. Yeah... Later when the dealer told me it was now 40k (car had >80k), oh well! For just the fluid change I think they quoted US$200-300. For just the fluid drop and refill. WT??

Used the kit from Deutsche Autoparts for the filter/screen & pan gasket. Also got the crush washer from them.

Got the Valvoline Max-Life locally from Advance for much less than the dealer or the independent shop. Found it on this thread. :)

Used an OTC fill adapter tool (6604 for ~US$18) and a Plews bottle pump (55-001 for ~US$8) to refill. The adapter was better than I expected. The bottle pump was a pain, but effective. Got 'em off Amazon.

I drove the front wheel up on ramps and used two jacks to lift the rear. It sounds bad, but this was on a down slope so just had to raise the rear a couple inches to get the pan level. One of the jacks has a locking pin, so it's essentially also a jack stand. ******* win! Didn't even spill my Dr Pepper. :)

Put in about 4 liters and got about 750 ml out, so total fill was about 3.25L. The OBDII dongle reported a steady 43C while idling in Park. Putting it in gear started increasing the fluid temp pretty quickly.

Surprises: Fluid was dark, but didn't smell burnt. Wasn't much crud in the pan, and very little on the magnets or in the screen! I'll wind up changin fluid again in 5k at 130k. Should be faster without removing the pan, and having a plan to get it done.

Question: What's the normal operating temperature on this thing? I know the fill temp is 40C +/- 5C, but while driving? While doing the 'round the block test, I saw the fluid temp get up to nearly 90C!? That seems rather high. The temperature did start coming down when just idling. Looking at the literature online, it looks like the max temp before the tranny starts 'taking measures' is about 130C <?>. (locking up the torque convertor faster, etc) I'll try a longer drive tomorrow and see what it does.

EDIT: Took it out for a 'romp' yesterday afternoon. Air temperature was about 80F (27C). Accelerated hard in D a couple times, drove 65MPH (figure it out :)) for several miles, the temperature reported via OBDII never peaked about 88C. If the cooler thermostat opens at 90C, that may be about right. While cruising it cooled to the mid 80C's. I'll watch it over the next week.
 

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Another great thread ruined by photobucket...is this a setting on the forum admin side of things or photo bucket bandwidth issues? All that work by the poster ruined!
 

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Another great thread ruined by photobucket...is this a setting on the forum admin side of things or photo bucket bandwidth issues? All that work by the poster ruined!
Took some time to figure out the photo issue. Found that adding an extension called PhotoBucket Hotlink fix works. Bam! all the photos are there. The link below shows how to do it in Chrome but I banged around and added the extension to Fire Fox and it works like a charm. Happy viewing! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IKpfgteV6M
 

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What happens driving with less transmission fluid?

DIY Automatic transmission (09G) service/ fluid and filter change

Thanks to Hindsight at passatworld.com, I used some of his pictures. This is for instructional use, I do not assume any responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person. That said my car is at 150Kmi with never a problem with the transmission, this was my third time to do this service. For clarity this is for the 09G 6 speed Automatic triptronic transmission. Mine happens to be hooked up to a 2.5L in a 2006 Jetta.

What you will need:

5 mm allen wrench (and/or T30 Torx wrench)
10 mm socket w/ ratchet and extension (3/8 drive)
3ft. 5/8” ID clear vinyl tubing or 3/4” ID flexible hose and hose clamp
Funnel
IR thermometer or VAG-COM device
Small Rod of some sort, or flat head screwdriver
Cleaning solution
Rags
Catch Pan
4-6 quarts ATF
AT filter kit
VAS 6262/2 (pictured in step 8; Optional, if you have a fill port)
I have also heard of people using an M10x1 to Hose barb fitting, cutting M10x1 threads in a small pipe, and drilling a hole through an M10x1 bolt. If you are going to do this the threaded end of your device must match the threads on your drain plug or you will damage your pan (I have read the drain plug is M10x1 threaded, but I have never checked myself) I have no experience with this I have always used my fill port. Also if your using this tool/method you can disregard the tubing/flexible hose listed above, I do not know what size or how long the necessary tubing is for this step, but you will need tubing of some sort.

1. Jack up the car or the front at least and place your catch pan. The drain plug is a stainless steel plug located towards the rear right-hand side of the transmissions oil pan, you will need to determine by gaining view of your drain plugs socket, if your drain plug uses a T30 Torx or 5mm allen wrench.

2. If you are going to fill through the transmission fill port with the red snap ring (pictured below) keep reading :) If you are going to fill through the drain port (using VAS 6262/2 or equivalent) skip to step 3.



You will need to release the snap ring either by inserting something small (in my case the end of a circuit probe (pictured below)), or split open the ring with a flat head screwdriver.



To pull the fill plug out of the fill port it may be necessary to remove the harness bracket that is bolted onto the lower starter bolt. As you can see in picture 1 it is very close and gets in the way. I don’t remove it b/c it is one more thing to forget so if you’re like me it is possible to work around. After removing the fill plug you may want to place a rag over the fill port opening.

I decided to spring for new fill and drain plugs, snap-ring, and crush washer from the dealer (pictured below), this is my third time to do this and the snap-ring and drain and fill plugs were getting worn out. A new crush washer is not an option, as the name indicates the old crush washer will be spent upon removal. I have never used anything but the crush washer from the dealer so I cannot vouch for replacing it with an copper or aluminum washer…



3. Back to the drain plug now, insert your wrench and remove the drain plug. Above the drain plug there is a stand pipe, the picture below depicts the stand-pipe and old drain plug in orientation of assembly, on the left side; the old fill plug and snap ring are to the right.



Remove the standpipe by inserting the 5mm allen wrench into the drain port in the transmission oil pan and unscrewing it in the same rotational direction as to remove the drain plug. (See picture below) Allow transmission fluid to drain.



4 Next unbolt the transmission pan and remove it from the transmission. There are 8 10mm bolts located around the perimeter of the pan (see picture in step 5). I find it helpful to hold the pan up against the transmission with one hand and remove the bolts with the other hand. When pulling the pan down from the transmission keep it as level as possible. There will still be some fluid in the pan.

5 Upon removing the pan from the transmission take note of the 2 rectangular magnets in the deep section of the pan, one near the drain plug the other more forward and to the Left-hand side. Also remove the old gasket from the pan, but take note also of the metal spacers in the gasket. Not all AT filter kits come with new spacers, if your kit does not include these, remove them from the old gasket, clean and place in new gasket. Clean the pan and magnets thoroughly. Replace in pan the magnets and standpipe. If filling through the fill port replace drain plug with OLD crush washer; Only hand tight the drain plug it need not be torqued in at this time. If filling though drain port leave drain plug out at this time. Place the new gasket with spacers on pan, it’s asymmetrical so it will only fit one way and the skirts on the gasket should hold it on the pan. Picture below for reference



6 The filter is bolted towards the rear of the valve body of the transmission with 3 10mm flange head bolts, remove the transmission filter. See picture below



Keep the catch pan under the filter when removing it, there is fluid trapped behind the filter that will pour out when the filter comes loose. Once the filter is removed, thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces of the filter and pan. I also gently wipe off any hanging transmission fluid at this time. Install the new filter with the 2 irregular shape cork surrounded holes (picture below) not visible or facing up, and the rectangular slot facing down and visible. Then reinstall the cleaned transmission oil pan, with new gasket.



7 Preparing to fill the transmission, if you are filling through the drain port (with VAS 6262/2 or equivalent) skip to step 8. If you are using the fill port slip your hose over the fill port, (pictured below). If you are using 5/8” ID vinyl, you will need to heat the end of the tube to get it to expand enough to fit over the fill port. I VERY CAREFULLY dip it in a cup of hot water.



I clamp the tube on to the fill port, but only hand tight with a screwdriver b/c I use the smaller diameter tubing the clamp is more for my own peace of mind than to make a seal (pictured below) If you use ¾” ID tubing, you will need to clamp with force, I do not know how tight to clamp as I have never used this size tubing. My reason for considering ¾” ID tubing is when I measure the fill port on its ridge with a slide caliper its diameter measured 0.77in. OD.



Route the hose towards the top of the engine bay between the motor and radiator and insert the funnel into the end of the hose. (pictured below)



8 If filling through the drain port, attach VAS 6262/2 (pictured below) or equivalent to the drain port



Once attached slip a tube over the open end of the VAS 6262/2 or equivalent tool. The other end of the tube may be attached to a fill cap (pictured below), or a funnel can be placed at this end.



9 Before adding new fluid to the transmission I pour my old fluid in to an old oil bottle to gauge roughly how much to add. 4 quarts came out (pictured below) so I will be adding about 5 quarts.



Once you have an idea about how much fluid to add start pouring



Or squeeze your fluid in :p



10 Once done filling the transmission with fluid if using the fill port: unclamp and remove hose-funnel assembly, insert fill plug and replace red snap-ring (I fill mine until it can take no more, 5 quarts, pictured below).



If you are filling through the drain port you can either pull the hose off the VAS 6262/2 or equivalent tool and plug it with something; or unscrew/remove the VAS 6262/2 tool and replace drain plug with OLD crush washer. (I could see this getting messy :-/)

11 If you have not made the car level in both planes front to rear and left to right now is the time to do so. It is also time to break out the IR Thermometer, or if you have one hook up your VAG-COM device. If you are using a VAG-COM device you will need to make viewable the transmission fluid temperature. I do not have a VAG-COM device so I do not know how to do this. Also you will need to need to place your VAG-COM device where the transmission fluid temperature is viewable from underneath the car.

12 Start the motor, allow the motor RPM to drop below 1000 RPM. Place your foot on the brake and set the parking brake. Shift though all the gears, leaving the transmission in each gear for at least 10 seconds. Then return the transmission to Park.

13 Exit the vehicle, leaving the motor running and get your IR Thermometer or VAG-COM device, catch pan, and 5mm Allen or T30 Torx wrench and go under the car with the motor still running. Note this is DANGEROUS please be very cautious when doing this. Place your catch pan under the drain plug. See picture below



14 The goal here is to make the transmission fluid level with the top of the standpipe when the fluid is at 40[SUP]o[/SUP]C with the engine running and having previously shifted through the gears. The drain port can be opened between 35[SUP]o[/SUP]C and 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C. Also b/c I use an IR Thermometer I measure the temperature of the transmission fluid at the pan. I like to take the temperature at several places on the pan and use the average. B/c I overfill the transmission by an entire quart I remove the drain plug at 35[SUP]o[/SUP]C and the fluid pours out. Usually about 42[SUP]o[/SUP]C the fluid no longer drips from the drain port (at this point I proceed to step 15) . This may differ slightly for your car. If your transmission fluid temperature exceeds 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C while excess fluid is draining, IMMEDIATELY replace the drain plug with OLD crush washer. Turn off the motor, and allow transmission fluid temperature to cool to below 40[SUP]o[/SUP]C, and then repeat steps 12-14.

15 With the fluid no longer draining, or dripping very slowly (depending on how rough your motor idles), and the temperature of the transmission fluid not exceeding 45[SUP]o[/SUP]C Install the drain plug with NEW crush washer and torque down. Test drive and check for leaks.
I stopped injecting the fluid a little bit short because I suspect the overflow tube is not doing the right job. Maybe a quart short. I drained about 4.5 quart and filled about 4 quart. And test drive out. Then I am hearing some kind of "small electronic machine shutting down" sound immediately before signal full stop. Is this the symptom with low fluid level?
 

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From Samarra85k5 very first post on page 1, The Grey plastic L shape part he has going into the fill hole of the transmission pan. Picture #1, 9, 10, 11, 17
What is it actually called? And does someone have a link to purchase one? And what size is it? I like this way because you don't need a multi-use pump or garden sprayer to put in the new transmission fluid.
 

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For what its worth, on some 09G transmissions (this is a 2013 trans) You can use this plug as a filler hole. Worked perfectly for me. Same location as the earlier models fill port, but a plug instead of a filll port.
I used a harbor freight fluid transmfer pump, and it made a nice seal in the hole, and made it a super easy job to fill.

Beware though its a T60 or so plug. 8mm hex works too.

Can someone tell me the thread size of this plug? Thank you in advance.
 

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DIY Automatic transmission (09G) service/ fluid and filter change

3. Back to the drain plug now, insert your wrench and remove the drain plug. Above the drain plug there is a stand pipe, the picture below depicts the stand-pipe and old drain plug in orientation of assembly, on the left side; the old fill plug and snap ring are to the right.



Remove the standpipe by inserting the 5mm allen wrench into the drain port in the transmission oil pan and unscrewing it in the same rotational direction as to remove the drain plug. (See picture below) Allow transmission fluid to drain.
VW Dealership in Ricardson, Texas was telling me that standpipe cost $36 dollars? Does that sound like the average price at a VW Dealership? Sounds outrageous for that little pipe.
 

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The Grey plastic L shape part he has going into the fill hole of the transmission pan.
What is it actually called?
Fill port(?). Not sure, but this is the part number: 09G321407

And does someone have a link to purchase one? And what size is it?
With the part number you should be able to find it wherever you prefer, as for the price, it seems it ranges from low/mid $30's and up. But, if you want to go that route, make sure you can install it first. I have a 07 jetta and it doesn't even have the screw/bolt for a plug that some others seem to have like in post #78 by Pyotr.
 

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First of all thanks to the OP and everybody in this thread, managed to change the fluid on my 09 Rabbit at 140k km. I had no shift problems at all, sometimes the 2nd to 1st gear on hard stop would make a small hiccup, but that's it.

Here's my story :
  • Ordered on ECS Tuning OEM filter, gasket, drain bolt and the pan bolts. Went with the Idemitsu ATF, type TLS which is a T-IV compatible fluid. Put all the fluid in the refrigerator before the job, so the ATF was cold and allowed me more time to control the fluid.
  • Dropped the pan (fun fact, my drain bolt on the car looked like a Torx bolt, the new was an Allen?), fluid has never been changed but car was always driven carefully, and mostly in cold weather (Canada) FWIW.
  • Fluid still had a small reddish tint to it, no burnt smell and no big metal chunks. Magnets were covered in clutch material, but would say that it looked reasonable.
  • Recovered about 3.5L of ATF.
  • Pumped in 5L of Idemitsu ATF I've ordered in it, ran the car and went 20 secondes in each gear.
  • Checked with VCDS and opened up the drain bolt on 30°C, knowing I had way too much in it.
  • At about 43°C, drainage almost stopped so I've put the new drain bolt back in.
Made no adaptation at all, car shift as smooth as before, can't say I've seen any improvement. But, in the 300km I've driven it the past month, no hiccup on hard stop occurred from 2nd to 1st gear. This might be the improvement I've seen.

Thanks again for this DIY!
 

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Hi

I just got a 2006 Jetta 2.5 with around 119k miles. I believe it is a 6 speed transmission.

I want to change the transmission filter.

Rock has the following options:
VAIICO
ATP
REIN
ACDELCO
PIONEER
BECK/ARNLEY
WIX


Any preferences?

Also Rock sells the Aisin T-IV fluid which I guess is fine since it is a Aisin transmission. How many quarts should I buy? I've seen some people mention 4, 5 and 6.

Thanks!!
 
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