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13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1.8t FAQ

In an attempt to re-organize the FAQ, Please click on the following links to follow you relevant interest.
1) Information on Chipping
2) Information on the differences regarding Exhausts
3) Upgrading your Clutch
4) Different Intakes available
5) The difference between a DV and a BOV
5) How To Section
6) Part Numbers
7) Fuse Numbers
8) Unique 1.8t Lingo
9) Spark Plugs
10) Upgrading turbos
11) Engine Codes
12) Upgraded Turbo Compressor Map Comparison
13) Hydro-lock Information
14) 1.8T Forum Member Map

Modified by [email protected] at 6:26 PM 8-15-2004

Modified by BRM10984 at 9:46 PM 10-12-2005

7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

Big thanks to Mike for posting that

How to: Oil change.
1.Jack up the car using a floor jack or with ramps.
2.Support the car on jackstands. Place the car on the two body pieces that run about 6" toward the inside of the car from the jack position. These two pieces run 1/2 the length of the car.
3.Remove the 4 t-25 torx screws that hold in the plastic protector under the car.
4. You will see a 17mm(or 19mm depending on model year) nut that is facing the rear of the car and is located on the grey piece of your engine(oil pan). Remove and drain all oil.
5. Getting closer to the front of the car while still underneath you will see the oil filter, it is generally blue or black in color and is in between the front of your block and the radiator about midway down. Remove(I find channel locks to be the easiest or the socket oil filter removal tool)
6. Replace drain plug with new crush washer and tighten on car.(20ft/lbs or so).
7. Replace oil filter with new filter preferably Mann. Remove the old gasket from the old oil filter and lube the threads of the new oil filter. Torq to tight with hand.
8. Add 4.4 qts of oil.
9. Check for leaks.
How-To: Spark Plugs
Step 2 applies only to AWD engine code.
1. Remove engine cover using large flat screwdriver twisting large plastic screws 90deg.
2. Loosen the coilpacks(located on top of the head) with allen key(hex nut).
3. Gently pry up with large screw driver making sure tabs are not holding coil pack in place.
4. Remove spark plugs with 5/8" deep socket set.
5. At this time you can remove and change or inspect your plugs.
6. Apply antiseize compound/oil to threads of sparkplug to avoid stripping aluminum head.
6. Properly gap and insert new sparkplugs with crush washers.
7. Tighten to 20-21ft/lbs.
8. Replace coil packs.
9. Replace engine cover and tighten by turning screws 90deg.
How-To : Clean MAF
1. Buy a 1gallon ziploc bag and some 99% isopropyl alcohol(99$ grain alcohol or moonshine wont do)
2. Place MAF inside bag and submerge with alcohol, slosh the alcohol and the MAF around a few times for 5 minutes.
3. Remove and let dry completely.
How-To : Remove ECU
Works for Golf/Jetta & 337
1. Remove weather stripping from car(located just past block its that flimsy piece of rubber that goes the length of the car.
2. Remove the 4 screws towards the back left of the engine block. to gain access to pollen filter. Remove plastic piece
3. Lift up on the large guard that is located underneath the windshield wipers and in front of the weatherstrip. Do not remove just lift up about 2"
4. In the middle of the plastic guard is your ECU. Jam a small piece of wood under the guard that allows you to access the ECU without cutting up your hands.
5. The ecu is located in a bracket. Take a large screwdriver and insert into the electrical connectors on the right connecting the wire to the ecu, pull to the right about 1". Repeat pulling to the left for the otherside, the connectors should now be able to be removed manually from the ecu.
6. On the left side of the bracket is a clip holding the ecu in place pry to the left so that the ecu can be pulled out.
7. Firmly grasp ecu by the two large pegs on the corners and pull directly towards you.
8. This sounds harder than it is. If you are unsure what you are doing IM one of us and we will gladly help you.
How-To : Wheel well mod
1. Go to the front passenger tire
2. Remove the 8 or so T-15 torx screws, some are hidden so be careful and use your hands to feel the heads.
3. Remove wheel well liner and inspect where intercooler is.
4. If you have a heat-gun and a dremel you can cut slits and bend the liner to make it vented.
5. IF you dont have a heatgun, you can purchase a vent from http://www.parts4vws.com(audi tt wheelwell vent) or can buy one from homedepot.
6. Cut the wheelwell liner behind the intercooler and attach new vent to the wheelwell using rivets/screws and some seaming compound to make the job look neat.
7. Reinstall wheelwell and tighten all the torx screws.
How-To : Motor-Mounts
1. Jack up car using factory jack or floorjack.
2. Support car on jackstands.
3. Get under car and look for this.
4. Remove the bolts and the entire mount.
5. Install new mount or alternatively new bushings.
6. Reinstall mount and tighten bolts to factory specifications.
Note : These are stretch bolts it is recommended to use new bolts, howver most people don't.
How-To : Vag-Com
With thanks to Andy Smith, Uwe Ross and the rest of the gang.
VAG-COM guide for 1.8t
How-To : Turbo Timer
Thanks to shaka for the link:)
How-To : n75 valve replacement
N75 replacement
Thank you to user:JDriver1.8t
How-To : change alternators

Modified by VwVixEn98 at 12:02 AM 4-13-2006

Modified by VwVixEn98 at 12:02 AM 4-13-2006

7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (AxeAngel)

Engine Codes 101
APH - New Beetle 1.8t engine
1.Exhaust System: VW put 2L exhaust on the NB 1.8T!
2.Small Injectors, and 3 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator (sufficient for 150HP that’s it; maybe 160 max.)
CR of 9.5:1
AUG - coming
AWD - 2000 model year on golf/jetta/gti
AWW - 2001 model year on golf/jetta/gti/wolfsburg
AWP - 2002 model year on golf/jetta/gti/337(yes its the same engine)
A little table and some more useless info.
Eng Code Compression Exh. Dia. Turbo Stock Boost Timing
AWD 9.5:1 55mm ko3 0.6bar No VVT
AWW 9.3:1 50mm ko3/ko4 0.6bar VCT
AWP 9.5:1 55mm ko3/ko4 0.8bar VCT emmis
All catbacks are 2.17"
2nd O2 sensor on AWD can be tapped for A/F gauge
AWP engines lack Fuse 6
AWD had slightly different fitting coilpacks, they use clips and allen keys to be secured.
All 1.8t engines regardless of engine code and regardless of car have the same block, only the ancillaries differ. The exception to the rule is the audi 225tt that has strenghtened internals and an additional fuel rail.
The AEB engine code(non-dbw) has the largest intake ports and consequently is one of the most in demand head's to put on our cars.
The 1.8T NB (APH code) has a "baby" K03 turbo--not same as Golf and TT 1.Exhaust System: VW put 2L exhaust on the NB 1.8T!
2.Smaller Intercooler (even smaller than Golf part). Less air through turbo = less boost.
3.Small Injectors, and 3 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator (sufficient for 150HP that’s it; maybe 160 max.)
Looks like Golf 1.8T is a "hardware 180 HP" motor. The NB 1.8T is a "hardware 150 HP" motor. (ie Making 180HP Golf=software change; making 180HP NB=changing above parts)

Modified by VWMike81 at 7:50 PM 8-24-2003

13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: 1.8t FAQ (AxeAngel)

From Andy once again, this is a list of commonly used part numbers for 1.8t related things
Intake Air Filter
1JO 129 620 A (Fram replacement - CA8602)
Mass AirFlow sensor (MAF)
06A 906 461 A (for 2.0, but seems to work with AWD)
06A 906 461 D (AWD/AWW)
06A 906 461 L (AWP)
Transverse K04 Turbocharger (upgrade for K03'ers, not the TT225 part)
K04-9500001 (K04 turbo actually the KKK part number, not VW's)
AWD K03 Turbocharger
06A 145 704 A
(Bosch k03-026 cb5015295 5304 101 5066)
AWW K03 Turbocharger
06A 145 704 S
AEB K03 Turbocharger
058 145 703 L
Note about turbos: an "X" at the end of the part number indicates a rebuilt unit.
Transverse Turbo Swap Parts
1J0 253 115 A (Turbo-DP Gasket)
N 907 678 01 Studs (x4)
058 145 791 Washers (x4)
N 013 812 8 Washers (x2)
058 145 757 B Gasket
06A 253 039 E Gasket
N75 Wastegate Regulator Valve
058 906 283 C (AWD/AWW?)
058 906 283 F (AWW/AWP/NB Turbo S)
Diverter Valve
06A 145 710 H (Old)
06A 145 710 N (TT/NB Turbo S)
N249 (Diverter Valve Selenoid)
028 906 283N (NB Turbo S/???)
Audi RS4 Drivers Side Intercooler
078 145 805J
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP)
038 906 051
4.0 bar Fuel pressure Regulator
078 133 534 C
Injector Seal O-rings
06A 906 149 (set of 4)
Manifold insert bung
068 133 555 C
Fuel Injectors
06A 906 031 S (AWD, 317.46cc/[email protected], 369cc/[email protected])
06A 906 031 AB (APH, 281.78cc/[email protected])
??? ??? ??? ?? (AMB, [email protected], [email protected])
Intake Manifold Gasket
058 129 717 D
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
035 103 245 A
Head Bolts
06A 103 385 A (AWD, APH)
Stock spark plugs
NGK PFR6Q (Bosch F7LTCR, Autolite 9323)
06B 905 115H (AWP)
06B 905 115G (AWW)
Oil Filter
06A 115 561 B
AWD 5-speed ECU
06A 906 032 CL
AWD Automatic ECU
06A 906 032 CM
AWW 5-speed ECU
06A 906 032 DL
AWW Automatic ECU
06A 906 032 DM
06A 906 032 GH
AWP 5-speed ECU
06A 906 032 HS
AWP Automatic ECU
06A 906 032 HF
AWP New Beetle Turbo S ECU
1C0 906 032
Lower Pendulum "Dogbone" Mounting Bolts
N 102 683 02 (8x45mm) - you need 2
N 102 466 03 (10x30mm)
N 905 970 03 (10x70mm)
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
058 253 039 G
Stock AWD Downpipe/Cat
1J2 253 058 RX
1J2 253 058 JX
Front O2 Sensor
06A 906 262 Q (AWD)
06A 905 849 E (New Beetle APH)
Rear O2 sensor (AWD)
06A 906 262 AJ
TT180 Factory Short Shifter
8N0711051 - uses a Ball joint for the arm attachment (pops on) 180hp models
8N0711051A - has a "pin" for the arm to attach to late 150 hp models
8N0711051B - 98-99.5 uses the black lever
There are also 3 different cable catchs used on the VW from 99-present
#1J0711761A - 180hp Golf/Jetta. - ball joint on bushing
#1J0711761B - 150hp Golf/Jetta. - pin connector on bushing
#1J0711761C - 98 - 99.5 model Golf/Jetta
special thanks to {:sylph:} for doing the research on the short shifters

VW "High-Performance" 75W/90 Transmission Fluid
G 005 100 A1
2nd gear grind fix ... parts off "moclov"'s invoice (O2J Transmission):
[2] - G-005-100-A1 - oil, .5 litr
[1] - 00076 - brake klee
[1] - 02J-311-239-J - synchr hub
[2] - 02J-311-247-C - synchr ring
[1] - 02J-311-261-K - 2nd gear
[1] - AMV-188-200-03 - seal comp
[3] - G-005-100-A1 - oil, .5 litr
2nd gear grind fix ... parts off "genxguy"'s invoice (O2M Transmission):
[1] - 02J-311-251-J 1st gear
[1] - 02J-311-261-L 2nd gear
[1] - 02J-311-239-J synchr hub
[2] - 02J-311-247-C synchr rng
[2] - 02J-311-277-A synch ring
[2] - 02J-311-279 Outer ring
[1] - 02A-311-531-K reversgear
[2] - G-005-000 Oil-1 litr
25Y GTI (256mm) rear brake Caliper carriers right: 1J0 615 425 E
25Y GTI (256mm) rear brake Caliper carriers left: 1J0 615 426 E
25Y GTI (256mm) rear brake splash guard shield left: 1J0 615 609
25Y GTI (256mm) rear brake splash guard shield right: 1J0 615 610
Audi TT (256mm) Rotors: 8L0 615 601
Audi TT Caliper left: 8N0 615 423 C
Audi TT Caliper Right: 8No 615 424 C
256mm OEM pads: 4B0 698 451
Wheel hub with bearing: 1J0 501 477 A
Touch-up Paint
LST OM2 A7W (Reflex Silver)
LST OP2 Z5N (Nogaro Blue)
Euro 25th Anniversary Smoked Headlights:
1J1-941-017N (Passenger's side)
1J1-941-018N (Driver's side)
Laminated Glass Windshield for GTI/Golf (Jetta?)
1J0 845 011 L
1J0 845 011 M (with tinted band at top)
337 chin spoiler
1J0 805 903 L 007
Rear Valances
1J5 807 521 C (Jetta 4-Motion, Euro)
1J5 807 521 D (2002.5 Jetta, 4-Motion-style)
1J6 807 521 D (GTI 337)
1J6 807 521 C (GTI VR6 4-Motion)
1J6 807 521 E B41 (2002.5 GTI, cut out for dual exhaust)

Golf R32 Body Kit
1J0 807 217H GRU (Front Bumper)
1J6 807 421J GRU (Rear Bumper)
1J0 853 859B GRU (Side Skirt - Left?)
1J0 853 860B GRU (Side Skirt - Right?)
Window Regulator Repair Kit (old-style plastic)
ZVW 269 202 (Driver's side)
ZVW 269 201 (Passenger's side)
Window Regulator Repair Kit (new-style metal)
1JM898461 (Driver's side)
1JM898462 (Passenger's side)
1C0 941 531 A 20H
3 spoke steering wheel
1J0 419 091 AEE74
Radio Delete Panel (DIN panel that matches VW dash material)
1J0 857 231 1QA
Mk4 'Cubby hole'
1J0 857 058 B
Armrest latch "button"
3B0-868-445-Q70 (Beige)
3B0-868-445-B41 (Black)
Let's make a big list and I'll put it somewhere that VWVortex won't accidentally delete it.
Roger Moore's AWESOME list of Euro parts:
One place to look up part prices:
Interesting pseudo-ETKA (part numbers and diagrams):

[Modified by VWMike81, 10:12 AM 9-16-2002]

[Modified by VWMike81, 4:48 PM 9-25-2002]

Modified by VWMike81 at 8:23 AM 8-18-2003

Modified by [email protected] at 12:18 PM 4-19-2005

7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

Lingo 101
What makes the 1.8t Unique.
5 Valve technology .
The 1.8t does not have 5V total nor does it have 20V per cylinder. It has 5V per cylinder giving it a grand total of 20V (5V X 4cylinders)
Three valves are for intake
Two valves are for exhaust.
The AEB head has the largest valves.
What is VCT?
VCT or Variable Cam Timing. Synonymous with Variable Valve Timing
The AWW, AWP, and AWV engine codes have VVT, while the AWD and APH do not.
The VCT in later 1.8T's is simply for emissions purposes. It has only two states - normal and massive overlap. The overlap is used to draw exhaust gasses back into the cylinders at startup.
What is Surging?
Compressor surge is where the air backs up in the compressor and oscillates violently within the compressor wheel. This happens when the engine's swallowing capacity is exceded by the compressor's output.
The technical definition is when the pressure after the compressor exceeds the radial velocity component of the compressor wheel's output which causes the air to back up.
The sensation is somewhat akin to getting on the pedal and simultaneously then getting off it, many times, the car feels like its bucking, acceleration, deceleration, acceleration, etc.
What are coil packs?
The 1.8t motor has a slightly different ignition system than most of us are used to, replacing the more traditional distributor and ignition wires are coilpacks. Coilpacks sit directly ontop of your sparkplugs and are located directly underneath your engine cover. You need to remove your coilpacks in order to change your sparkplugs. Coilpacks work in much the same way as a traditional ignition system in that they power up the sparkplug to create a spark and transfer potential energy in the head into kinetic energy through combustion. In general many people have had certain problems with their coilpacks, chalk it down to improper sparkplug gapping, faulty modules or a host of other conditions. There was a running change in late 2000 where the coilpacks were redesigned and the manufacturer changed. The original coilpacks were produced by Hitachi and used allen keys and clips to hold them in place. As far as I know, very few of these failed.
MAF - Mass air flow sensor
DV - Diverter Valve
BOV - Blow off valve
TIP - Turbo inlet pipe
TB - Throttle body/Turbo-back exhaust
CAI - Cold air intake
IC - Intercooler
Nitrous 101
Wet Nitrous Kit : This means the nitrous jet also injects fuel at the same time. Any time you're spraying nitrous, you're spraying fuel too.
Dry Nitrous Kit : This method usually makes use of a special box to override the injectors or simply to bump up the fuel pressure, causing your stock fuel injectors to inject more fuel. All the nitrous jet injects in nitrous. It relies on the stock injectors for fuel as well as an override method to make them pump out more fuel.
Direct Port Kit : This can, in theory, be wet or dry. All it means is that you have individual nitrous jets on each intake manifold runner instead of a single jet some where in the intake pipe. 99% of direct port kits are wet, since the whole point of getting a direct port kit is to make sure you're correctly injecting equal, properly regulated amounts of fuel and nitrous in to each cylinder.
Don't ever run a dry nitrous kit. On the 1.8T, the stock injectors are pretty much maxed out just to supply all the fuel needed for full boost once you're chipped. Trying to squeeze anything more out of them is just begging for injector failure. No one wants to run 6 bar across their fuel rail just to try to make a dry nitrous kit work, and forget about some simple "black box" to take over the electronic control of the injectors. The last thing you should do on a 1.8T is try to outsmart the ECU.
So the real question becomes if you should get a single fogger wet nitrous kit, or direct port, and if you get a single fogger, where to put it. In general, you shouldn't run more than 33% of your off-bottle power with a single fogger, and not more than 50% of your off-bottle power with a direct port setup. With a single fogger, you tend to get unequal distribution of the nitrous/fuel mixture and making more power in some cylinders than others. This isn't good for your motor.
Most people here are running their foggers around 6 inches from the throttlebody.
So basically for a car that makes around 200hp or so when not on the bottle, a 60 or 70-shot would be pretty much the limit for safe use of a single fogger, and a 100-shot should be reasonably safe with direct port, assuming you aren't reaching a cylinder pressure limit at that point. I have no idea if anyone on this board has an ignition timing controller to retard timing while spraying, but the more nitrous you run, the more important that becomes.
(Thanks to AZGolf for all this useful info.)

[Modified by AxeAngel, 6:46 PM 12-4-2002]

13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: 1.8t FAQ (AxeAngel)

Information on Fuel Trim originally posted by [email protected] IE our Vag-Com God
Some of the most common fault codes (DTC's) pertain to fuel trim. Here is an explanation of fuel trim and what it does for us.
The ECU controls Air/Fuel mixture in order to maintain power, efficiency, and emissions. A/F is expressed as either a ratio (14.7:1 for example) or as a Lambda value. With iso-octane ("ideal" gasoline), Lambda of 1.0 is equal to 14.7:1 A/F. This is known as "Stoichiometric", a condition where there is a perfect balance between oxygen molecules and the various hydrogen and carbon based molecules in petroleum. With the oxygenated gasoline that most of us use, actual A/F ratio of 15:1 is closer to stoichiometric.
If Lambda is greater than 1.0, then there is a surplus of air and the engine is running lean. If Lambda is less than 1.0, then there is a surplus of fuel and the engine is running rich. It should be noted that the ratios are mass-based, not volume-based.
So, why don't we always run at 1.0 all the time? Well, we do MOST of the
time. At cruise and idle, mixture is held tightly to 1.0 to keep the catalytic convertor at optimal efficiency, so the emissions are minimized. However, when we need acceleration, the mixture gets richer. Why? Maximum power is made between 0.85 to 0.95 Lambda (12.5 to 14.0 A/F with iso-octane). So, under acceleration, mixtures get richer. Sometimes you want to get even richer under acceleration to keep detonation (pre-ignition of the mixture from excess cylinder temperatures) away. The 1.8T has a relatively high compression ratio for a turbocharged engine, which especially under lots of boost, is very succeptible to detonation).
So, now that we know that the ECU wants to be able to control the A/F ratio. It has a prescribed set of values (maps) for a given RPM, Load, etc. So, the ECU tells the injectors to pulse for exactly XX.X milliseconds and that SHOULD get us the proper A/F ratio that we want. Well, if you tell an employee to go do something, you want to make sure they actually did it, right? The ECU has some snitches (the front O2 sensor and the MAF, for the most part) that will report back whether or not the desired mixture has been attained. The rear O2 sensor is used mostly to monitor the condition of the catalytic convertor, although in some applications it also contributes to trim information.
Based on feedback from the snitches, the ECU learns to apply a correction factor to its commands to the fuel injectors. If you know that your employees take longer than the standard allotted time to do a specified job, you will need to adjust for that in your planning (injectors are in a union, so it is tough to fire them ). The learned values go between the maps in the ECU's Flash ROM (the "chip") and the signal to the fuel injectors. These learned compensations are known as "trim". So, when you see "trim", it means "compensation".
"Add" means additive trim, which is addressing an imbalance at idle. When the ECU is using additive trim, it is telling the injectors to stay open a fixed amount longer or shorter. The malfunction (e.g. vacuum leak) becomes less significant as RPM increase. For additive adaptation values, the injection timing is changed by a fixed amount. This value is not dependent on the basic injection timing.
"Mult" mean multiplicative trim, which is addressing an imbalance at all engine speeds. The malfunction (e.g. clogged injector) becomes more severe at increased RPM. For multiplicative adaptation values, there is a
percentage change in injection timing. This change is dependent on the basic injection timing.
You can check your current state of trim by using VAG-COM or equivalent to look in Group 032 in your engine measuring blocks. The first two fields will have percentages. The first field tells the fuel trim at idle (Additive). The second field tells the fuel trim at elevated engine speeds (Multiplicative). Negative values indicate that the engine is running too rich and oxygen sensor control is therefore making it more lean by reducing the amount of time that the injectors are open. Positive values indicate that the engine is running too lean and oxygen sensor control is therefore making it richer by increasing the amount of time that the injectors are open.
It is totally normal for both the first and second fields to be something other than zero. In fact, zeros indicate either you just cleared codes (which will reset fuel trim values) or something isn't working properly. If values get too far away from zero, it will cause a DTC (fault code) and can set off the MIL (commonly referred to as the Check Engine Light, or CEL). Specifications for normal operation are usually somewhere near +/- 10%.
In general, an out-of-spec value in the first field (Additive) indicates a vacuum leak since it is mostly present at idle, when vacuum is highest. An out-of-spec value in the second field (Multiplicative) indicates a fault at higher RPM, and may point to a faulty MAF.
Here's a good sanity check for the status of your MAF. Do a full-throttle run all the way to redline in a single gear (second works fine). Group 002 usually shows air mass in g/s. Your peak airflow should be roughly 0.80 times your horsepower. So, if you have a stock 150 hp 1.8T, expect around 120 g/s. If you see significantly less than that, you MAF may be on the way out. This still works if you are chipped, but "race" programs may make more power through timing, rather than airflow. Therefore, take all readings with a grain of salt.

Thanks for letting me use this Andy

Modified by VWMike81 at 5:45 PM 12-30-2003

13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

Here is some important fuse info that was posted today
1. Washer nozzle heaters, glove compartment light, memory seat control module (10A).
2. Turn signal lights (10A).
3. Fog light relay, instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A).
4. License plate light (5A).
5. Comfort system, cruise control, Climatronic, A/C, heated seat control modules, automatic day/night interior mirror, control module for multi-function steering wheel, control unit in steering wheel (7.5A).
6. Central locking system (5A).
7. Back-up lights, speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A).
8. Open
9. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A).
10. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine, Model Year 2000 (5A).
11. Instrument cluster, shift lock solenoid (5A).
12. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7.5A).
13. Brake tail lights (10A).
14. Interior lights, central locking system (10A).
15. Instrument cluster, transmission control module (TCM) (5A).
16. A/C clutch, after-run coolant pump (10A).
17. Open.
18. Headlight high beam, right (10A).
19. Headlight high beam, left (10A).
20. Headlight low beam, right (15A).
21. Headlight low beam, left (15A).
22. Parking lights right, side marker right (5A).
23. Parking lights left, side marker left (5A).
24. Windshield and rear window washer pump, windshield wiper motor (20A).
25. Fresh air blower, Climatronic, A/C (25A).
26. Rear window defogger (25A).
27. Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A).
28. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).
29. Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A); diesel engine (10A).
30. Power sunroof control module (20A).
31. Transmission control module (TCM) (20A).
32. Injectors: gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine (15A).
33. Headlight washer system (20A).
34. Engine control elements (10A).
35. 12 V power outlet (in luggage compartment) (30A).
36. Fog lights (15A).
37. Terminal (86S) on radio, Instrument cluster (10A).
38. Central locking system (with power windows), luggage compartment light, remote/fuel tank door, motor to unlock rear lid (15A).
39. Emergency flashers (15A).
40. Dual tone horn (20A).
41. Cigarette lighter (15A).
42. Radio (25A).
43. Engine control elements (10A).
44. Heated seats (15A).
Fuse arangements in fuse bracket/battery:
S162. Glow plugs (coolant) (50A).
S163. Fuel pump (FP) relay/glow plug relay (50A).
S164. Coolant fan control (FC) control module/coolant fan (40A).
S176. Relays panel interior (110A).
S177. Generator (GEN) (90 Amp.) (110A).
Generator (GEN) (120 Amp.) (150A).
S178. ABS (hydraulic pump) (30A).
S179. ABS (30A).
S180. Coolant fan (30A).
Thanks to whomever did this, im me and I'll include your name


5,011 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

Spark Plug FAQ's
Prices can range from less than US$5.00 a set(4 plugs) to over US$75.00/set, with reports of some stealerships charging up tp US$100.00 for a set (OUCH). It has been satisfactorily argued that the inexpensive Autolites work as well as the expensive Iridiums, with the understanding that the Autolites must be changed more often. Autolite replacement intervals seem to range between every oil change to every fourth oil change. I've seen reports of Iridiums lasting up to forty-five thousand miles with just an occasional visual inspection and cleaning.
It should be noted that there has been speculation that frequent coil pack removal may have something to do with the problems they have. Theory is that since a defective coil pack is physically broken into two peices, and that rough removal techniques could help this along. I have seen no documented, concrete evidence of this, nevertheless, be gentle with your coil packs when removing them.
>Stock spark plugs NGK PFR6Q stock gap .032"
--Common replacements
Autolite 3923
Autolite 3922 (one heat range colder)
Denso Iridium IK20
Denso Iridium IK22 (one heat range colder)
Bosch F7LTCR
NGK BKR7E (Race plug, one range colder)
*avoid BKR7E-11 as the factory gap is too large, .042*
For every additional 50HP over stock, a general rule is:
--1 heat range colder
--gap shrinks by .004
So, a chipped 1.8T would make good use ofa plug one range colder gapped to .028
Reference: From NGK's FAQ: Spark Plug Gap
"Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005"."
Torque Settings for your plugs
(referenced from the Autolite website)
Thread Diameter......................Aluminum Heads
.................................Pound Feet........Newton Meters
14mm Crush Gasket...15 - 22 lb. ft.........20 - 30 nm

From Bentley Manual :
0.80 mm max.(0.031in)
Tightening torque 30Nm (22 ft-lb)
Tightening torque for Coil Packs 7ft lbs

How to read your plugs
As you change your plugs, it's a good idea to look over your old plugs to get an idea of how your engine is running and to help asses what your next plugs should be. Mostly your making sure your in the right temperature range, and that everything is consistant in all four cylinders.
-light brown/tan/gray in color they are the right heat range and A/F ratio
-white and you want a colder plug, likely running too lean i.e.: too much air, not enough fuel. (too much boost...)
-black (Majority of faulty plugs fall into this category)
---black and dry, you want a hotter plug
Dry fouling refers to the accumulation of carbon on the firing end of the plug which decreases the insulation and finally leads to miss-fire.
---black and Wet, you want a hotter plug
Wet fouling refers to the black and shiny state of the firing end covered with carbon and fuel which decreases the insulation causing the engine to mis-fire
-Often simply need to simply drive harder, add a freeway run into your short commute or something (quit being a spode and DRIVE the darn thing)
-The fuel setting (A/F ratio) is rich (chipped often run slightly rich)
-dirty air cleaner elements.
-Idling for a long time.
-The heat range of the plug is too cold (using a MBC and no chip(stock))

-reddish could indicate fuel system degredation troubles,iron content, rust?
Thanks to Roly for this link on spark plugs, which also includes a how to read your plugs section
Thanks to GTI-Turbo, CuStOm and all others who contributed to the various plagiarized posts.

[Modified by Srexy, 7:59 AM 3-27-2003]

Modified by VWMike81 at 11:11 AM 5-23-2003

13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: 1.8t FAQ (AxeAngel)

Thanks to Mike P's (Tyrolkid) continuing efforts he has found a way to virtually eliminate all wheelhop from your car. Here is his short and effective way of doing so
Pretty simple operation:
Take the plug of the ABS controller in the engine bay. Find Pin 18 on the controller. What you want to do is apply Key-on 12v+ power to this pin. Cut the Red/Black wire in the connector, tape off the side that goes into the harness, and run the other side to a switched 12v power source of your choice. Fin
-Mike P

Modified by VWMike81 at 2:15 PM 7-9-2003

13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

Upgraded Turbo's
This part of the FAQ is for those who are interested in learning more about the current turbo kit's out there as well as future one's. This is going to be basic and for more information contact the distributor of the kit or one of their retailers. These are in no particular order...
Kits that are currently on sale
1. APR- I think we all know about APR and their fabulous stage 3 turbo kit. Some may argue it's to expensive, others that it doesn't have enough power but when it comes down to it it is one of the most well thought out turbo kits that I've seen. The kit is centered around a GT-28 turbo bolted to an inconel manifold. Along with those items though APR includes everything you need to install the turbo and make it run reliability. these items include a 3" MAF, upgraded injectors, upgraded drop in fuel pump and all the miscellaneous bolts, clamps and couplers needed for the install. The turbo is spooled by around 3500 RPM's and makes power all the way to red-line. On 93 Octane most are showing 290-300hp at the crank. For more info as well as pricing, and dealers please see http://www.goapr.com/VW/products/stage3_trans.html
2. ATP- ATP has a variety of kits out. They aren't as complete as APR's kit, but they are priced very good and can give tremendous power gains if you can tune your own car. Their most popular kit right now it the gen II stage II kit. This kit, like APR's, also uses a Garrett ball bearing GT-28 but it is an off the shelf unit. ATP provides an adapter plate to attach it to your stock exhaust manifold. The ATP kit's let you slowly build your car up. You can bolt on their base kit which makes around 220whp and as you have the time and money slowly build the fuel system to support the extra boost. Recently a user, chris86vw, dyno'd his ATP stage 2 kit. He currently has GIAC k04 programming as well as a MBC set to 22psi, VR6 MAF, 440cc injectors, eurosport cool-flo race intake, 3"DP and upgraded turbo inlet as well as a TT cat-back. With those mods he made 260whp on a Mustang dyno which is right around 300 crank HP. Although some may complain that ATP doesn't have polished stainless steel components, and components that don't look like they are form the factory I've never heard of a manifold cracking and have only heard of a few early downpipes cracking so their quality is there. For more info on ATP turbo kits please see http://www.vwturbo.com
Kit's in the works
Neuspeed- Neuspeed is planning an upgraded turbo kit for mk4 1.8t vehicles. The kit will include a anew exhaust manifold as well as a T3 turbo and an external wastegate. It will also have new intake plumbing and the kit will be a complete bolt on affair. Power goals are 300 crank hp and there is no current information on this. I will be up-dating this section as I get more information from Greg [email protected] A huge thanks to him for letting me post this info as well as a pic of their prototype.

That's a pic of their mock up so far without the downpipe and intake plumbing.
4.Dubwerks- Dubwerks is also supposed to be coming out with a transverse 1.8t turbo kit. I don't know much about details, but I do know GIAC will be doing the programming and it should be a very complete kit that is a bolt on affair. Dubwerks released some pre-production pics of their turbo kit at treffen. Here are a few of those pics. Big thanks to Katie and the dubwerks crew for letting me use them. The kit, as well as pricing and potential power will be released shortly.

That's all for now, as more kits come available I'll update this

Modified by VWMike81 at 2:37 PM 3-1-2004

7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

1.Chips- A chip is the most common modifacation for the 1.8t. There are many companies with chips currently out but the 5 biggest are GIAC, APR, Neuspeed, REVO and Upsolute (Those are in no particlar order) I'll try to be as objective as possible here. Each are going to offer a significant power increase and choosing a chip can sometimes be a tough decision so you have to chose what fits your needs. First off try to get a ride in as many different chipped cars as possible so you can get a feel for each chip and its power delivery. I won't say who has the most power cause they are all close but I'll go over the benefits of each. APR has EMCS which basically lets you use your cruise control buttons to switch between different chipped modes, such as stock, chipped, valet, and race. They also have a lockout function, a fault code erase function. APR also has direct port programming as well now which means that the ECU is flashed with the chipped program through the cars on board diagnostic port. They have dealers throghout the country and also offer many other products such as exhausts and turbo upgrades. GIAC also has stock mode, a race program, and regular chipped program. GIAC currently has 2 ways in which they can chip your ECU. They can either install a socketed chip that contains 1 program or they can install a socket that contains multiple programs. IBE chip switch gives the owner of the car the ability to switch between stock, chipped, race, and valet I beleive with a small remote. GIAC has been around a very long time and they also have dealers thruout the country. GIAC also has done the programming for the K04 kit, and will be doing the upcoming Dubwerks turbo kit, so he also has other products out there. Upsolute is a nationwide firm but they do not have dealers through the country, instead they usually have a representative in the state itself who does their chipping. They do not use a socket and instead just reflash your chip with the chip program and resolder it to the board. They offer to return you to stock for dealer visits though. I'm Not positive but I think there is a small fee for this. Upsolute now also has a chip switch program for older 1.8t's and for AWD motor's. Another major chip tuner that has been around since the beginning of the watercooled tuning industry is Neuspeed. They also flash the chip the same way as Upsolute does so if the ECU is opened it's appearence remains stock. Neuspeed currently has chips for all 1.8t model's and they also offer a K04 upgrade for the B5 Passat's, Beetle and AWD Jetta's and Golf's. Neuspeed also is CARB exempt on all of their chips which no other chip manufactorer is. Meaning their chips are totally street legal. This is a big plus for people in states that are very strict when it comes to mods and warranties. REVO is a newer company in the tuning world but they seem to have an execellant product. REVO gives the ability to the cars owner to change settings on a chip if you pruchases their SPS device. This device lets you turn up the boost, advance timing this way you can tune your car for what you are doing. They also offer a program with a 3bar FPR as well as a 4bar FPR which is supposed to make more power. Those devices are optional and you can just purchase a regular chipped program from them if you do not feel comfortable nor have the desire to increase boost or advance timing.
What chiptuners do to your ECU. courtesy of Andy Smith
For more info check their sites, thats very basic

7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

2. Exhausts- Exhausts are much debated on the tex, the age old debate is 3" vs 2.5". Again I'll be objective so I'll keep my opinion to myself. There are only a few companies with 3" turbo back exhuasts out right now. Forced Motion is one, Matrix is the other, ATP has one out, and GHL is producing both a 2.5" and a 3" turboback exhaust. Now most of the tuners are recomending a 2.5" turbo back with the stock turbo, hence APR, TTtuning, Brullen, Eurosport, and Miltex are all producing 2.5" systems. With certain chips and a 3" exhausts over spooling can occur and that can lead to turbo damage. Neuspeed also offer's a turbo back exhaust but it couples a mandrel bent 2.25"DP coupled to your stock cat and that then would attach to their 2.5" cat back exhaust. Both the downpipe and cat-back are made of stainless steel. New Dimensions is also selling Jetex exhausts now. Their 2.75 cat-back is said to to be one of the quietest and free flowing exhausts on the market. It can be coupled to both stock and aftermarket downpipes and is stainless steel. http://www.goapr.com

7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

3. Clutch- If you haven't noticed most of the 1.8t drivers are upgrading their clutches after a year. The stock clutch just isn't up to the task of chipped HP and Torque. A basic upgrade is a stock VR6 clutch which is slightly larger and a lightweight flywheel. The autotech set up is very popular right now and combines thier 10lb flywheel, the starter gear, and a Sach's VR6 clutch kit. This type of set up will hold a good amount of power. Basically if you plan on a chip, and bolt on's this is what you want. Stock like driveability with some extra holding power. If you're shooting for more power then you want to look into either a stage 2 or 3 kit which will include both a beefier clutch disk and pressure pate. brake in for a new clutch is between 500-1000 miles...not highway miles either. Neuspeed also offer's clutch kit's. They have a sport and race kit, the sport features a full faced disc where the race kit has a 4 puck disc.



7,026 Posts
Re: 1.8t FAQ (VWMike81)

6. Intakes- There are many on the market currently. Some may make power some may not. I haven't seen conclusinve evidence either way. One thing is for sure they sound very cool with a good aftermarket DV. Some swear by them, other's hate them. Depends who you talk to and what you believe. I believe they are all around 300 or less. Another alternative which will provide similar power gains is a drop in filter. Basically it depends what school of thought you have which will dictate what you buy.

11,855 Posts
Originally posted by 1.8T3t04e

Originally posted by 1.8T3t04e
well i was at work bored off my ass...
so i wanted to plot out a few compressor maps...
i did the e40, e50, e60, gt61, gt66 and gt40 50trim.
now with that said... ill more than likely add all the misc info later when i have more time online.
now all of the maps are at 22.5 psi
with a couple maps plotted at 25psi and 22.5
i will also be adding a 20psi plot soon...
VE 1.15
and thanks to new337 for the gt40 50trim plot.
First off we have the E40, should be a snappy little devil.
your typical t3 exhaust options, BB options or 360degree thrust options for all other turbos as well.
spooling info: well they range, on a 1780cc 1.8t look to reach this 22.5psi no later than 4500rpm on all non-ball bearing units outfitted with a .48a/r stage 3 turbine section.
now the e40 and 50 will spool sooner than the e60 im sure... so your llooking at [email protected] say 3300, and 20psi before 4k for the most part...
based on turbine configurations.
Keep yoour HP goals around 300bhp-450bhp.

next is the famous t04e 50trim .50a/r compressor combo.

next is something no one i know of has tried... but the T04e 60trim compressor with .60a/r cover.

thats it for the t3/t04e options, yes i know i left out the 57trim. but thats comeing soon...
all t3/t4e applications can be sourced in the following links:
The PrecisionTurbo line
Innovative Turbo systems Street heat line
CheapTurbos.com T3T4 garrett turbos
Turbonetics T3/T4 and others.
Next we have turbo's for those that plan to maybe do a solid lifter setup in the near future...
the GT40 50trim and 54trim.
should get to full spool with a T3 turbine confiiguration of .63a/r stage 3 or 5 around 5,000rpm-5200rpm non ball bearing.
should flow enough to produce well over 500bhp.

Next we have the GT66 and GT61 compressor configuration.
these beasts should support some series numbers as well, and not ment for those with the 7k redline.
power comes on rather late, but when it does im sure its like a sock in the face!!!!
so here are the maps.

that is the gt61
next is the gt66

all three can be sourced from the ITS link in my Signature...
or from other links above.
this is not all the info... more info and plots to come...
GT30, GT35, T04e 57, GT28rs, and Turbine maps as soon as i complete them.
So happy hunting for that perfect turbo.
also an explaination on Plotting your own compressor maps is on its way as well.
until i get the detailed info here is a basic outline
the whole line of garrett GT turbos...
basicly your looking at getting this 22.5psi through different ranges depending on the turbo configuration.
each map is labled...
this post should be used as a reference to help yoou draw a conclusion on which turbo best suits your goals...
there are so many other ways to display plotted compressor maps... everything on these are set values for better/accurate comparisons.
also i will note again... its obvious on some of these turbos you will not make 22.5psi by 3k... its just plotted for reference.

these are pretty basic maps, just to help you along the selection process....
PS i did include the GT2540... it is mapped out based on the 25/28 exhaust setup.
so here it is.

EDIT:: maps being added to original post:

for you 60-1 believers there it is...

and i couldnt find the super 60 but here is a 60trim.

Taken from the ITS site:
A compressor map is created under ideal conditions, on a hot gas test stand. These operating conditions would be very
difficult to duplicate in your engine. We utilize these compressor maps as a tool to get us closer to an ideal (compromise) for a given application.
A compressor map is made up by a grid
of pressure ratio versus mass flow in lbs/min showing the different efficiency-islands (shown in %) and speed-lines (RPM) of the compressor.
Pressure Ratio

Pressure Ratio is; Atmospheric Pressure + Boost Pressure divided by Atmospheric Pressure.
Example given is for sea level:
14.7 psi(Atmospheric Pressure) + 14.7 psi(Boost)
D I V I D E D B Y = 2:1Pressure Ratio
14.7 psi(Atmospheric Pressure)

Mass Flow, LBS / Minute
As a rule of thumb, we calculate 10HP / lb air mass flow @100% Volumetric Efficiency, on gasoline powered applications.
You need to estimate how much horsepower (mass flow) your engine is going to make (horsepower goal), then divide this number by 10 (gasoline @ 100% VE), this will give you the mass flow in lbs/min, this number is applicable to the horizontal numbers on the compressor map.
You also need to know the boost pressure you are going to be running at your horsepower goal in order to calculate the pressure ratio (see formula above), this number is applicable to the vertical numbers on the compressor map. It is now possible to find the spot on the map that the compressor will operate at the instant your engine is at the given (power & boost) operating parameters. The idea is to stay to the right side of the surge line and stay within the highest (average) efficiency islands in the operating range of the engine. Another consideration is not to excede the choke flow of the compressor, as this will put undue strain(overspeed) on the wheel and it will create more heat due to the lower efficiency.
An engine is dynamic in operation and in reality it takes hundreds of calculations like this to fully utilize the compressor map, and you still need to test it all in the vehicle to verify the turbocharger / engine match.

Modified by [email protected] at 9:50 AM 5-27-2004

13,712 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Originally posted by 1.8T3t04e ([email protected])

Originally posted by{:sylph:}
I have searched a lot on this topic. and answers were very scarce.
First if you don't know:
Hydro-Lock is when a cai or other shallow placed intake system ingests water. The water is pulled into the turbo and through the IC/plumbing through the TB through the intake manifold through the valves and into the cylider chambers. Under the next stroke the water compresses........
There was heavy flash flooding in my city this week and I was caught in it. In an intersection the sewers started to back up and fill the highway. I took in a LOT of water. i pushded the car into a parking lot near by and tried to work out a game plan.
If you take in water.. STOP. don't try to keep driving, don't try to start it if it stalls.
get tools. jack, jack stands, wrenches screw drivers, etc. etc.
remove the intake/air cleaner. sit it aside to dry out
Clean MAF with denatured alochol.
replace filter or clean/re-oil.
remove the upper IC hose from the TB.
remove coils/plugs (clean/dry/or replace them)
Lift the car and support it. Remove the TIP from the turbo - at least enough to drain any water that is sitting in the intake hose.
Drain the oil pan slowly, let the water out.. remove at least 2 quarts and then replace that amount of oil.
(water in the oil pan is from 1 of 2 things. Water sliping past the rings, or water feeding in from the turbo through the return line.. both of wich are no good, so get it out of there!)
lower the car to be sure it is flat. Crank the motor breifly (2-3 sec.) since there is no compression it won't hurt the starter motor.
This might take a while.. Also have a bag or something over the upper IC hose to catch the water the turbo pushes through.
Crank the motor until only fuel mist sprays from the plug holes. This might take a while depending on the amount of water.
Once dry place about a 1/2 cap of motor oil into each cylinder to make sure the rings are lubricated for the initial compression test.
Re-attach the TIP if not already done.
insert Plugs/coils.
leave the MAF, and TB hose un attached.
Start the car under compression now, it will smoke a LOT due to the oil and remaing water beads. once started listen closely while ideling for any bangs/clicks/or unusal sounds. also do this while reving the engine lightly between idle and 2k.
If water shoots from the lower IC pipe wile increasing throttle then the lowe IC pipe and possibly the IC itself will have to be removed and drained before the TB/ upper IC hose can be re-attached.
Once the car is running and ideling on its own you will know if any "serious" engine damage has occured. Take small test drives to make sure there are no unusal sounds.
Replace Oil as soon as possible. you may have to do this 3-4 times to remove all the water in the system.
Do compression checks, boost checks, and re-check the plugs and pistons for water/debry.
Things that most likely occur when hydro-locked are
blown head gasket
bent rods - blown block/head
seized turbo
fowled plugs
dead maf
ruined filter
If the hydro lock occurs at low RPM's and under little or no boost (vaccum) it is unlikely that any of the above will occur. But anything is possible. This is why it is very important to NOT start the engine after taking in water.. if it compresses a large amount it will slip past the rings possibly blowing the head gasket. Or it will just compress the water and bend a rod/valve.. or worse.
I am still in the process of dumping my IC and checking compresion and boost. I did however get it running without any serious engine problems as of now.
I just wanted to post this to try and help anyone that encounters this problem and has no place to find info. on what to do about it.. or how serious it is.
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