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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a quick question...
How hard is it to swap a 2.0 16v into a A1 (87) cabby with 1.8 8v? is it bolt off/on basically with new computer or is it a cutting/welding nightmare?
Any help is appreciated http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (dubduc)

I know the motor bolts up to the mounts and tranny. Though when dealing with a CIS car from the factory. Would the Scirocco harness still be needed if your going straight to a standalone setup or can you just toss the motor in there and wire up the standalone?
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (Cabby-Blitz)

Dayumm karmann16 that swap is clean. Well done.
I own a 16v cab but didn't do the swap - bought it that way. They're no harder to maintain than any other 16v, Scirocco 16V parts bolt right up (pretty much).
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (dubduc)

I did the swap in my 86 cabby and used the existing CIS Lamda. Everything went real well except one small hitch. 86-88 cabbys use rear brake proportioning valves that screw into the master cyl. They leave very little space (about 5/8") between them and the 16V distributor. Any time I go WOT the engine rocks and mashes the dizzy cap into the Master Cylinder and BANG! a loud backfire and the car dies. unclipping the distributor cap reveals the rotor in 3 or 4 pieces. I went from a TT HD front mount to the TT race front mount and it got better, but is still an issue. I am also ordering the TT HD rear mount to replace my brand new stocker that isnt cutting it
. If all this fails I will switch to a Fiat X\19 distributor cap with right angle plugs.
But other than that 16valve cabbys are great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (ditchdigger)

Quote, originally posted by ditchdigger »
I did the swap in my 86 cabby and used the existing CIS Lamda. Everything went real well except one small hitch. 86-88 cabbys use rear brake proportioning valves that screw into the master cyl. They leave very little space (about 5/8") between them and the 16V distributor. Any time I go WOT the engine rocks and mashes the dizzy cap into the Master Cylinder and BANG! a loud backfire and the car dies. unclipping the distributor cap reveals the rotor in 3 or 4 pieces. I went from a TT HD front mount to the TT race front mount and it got better, but is still an issue. I am also ordering the TT HD rear mount to replace my brand new stocker that isnt cutting it
. If all this fails I will switch to a Fiat X\19 distributor cap with right angle plugs.
But other than that 16valve cabbys are great http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

The proportioning valves don't have to screw directly into the cylinder. You can get a couple 12" metric brake lines and 2 metric brake line unions from napa (for probably less than 10 bucks) and make your own valve relocation kits.

as for the swap it is as easy as pie. Engine bolts in. Check out the faq stickied at the top of the forum, it has a link for the be all end all 16v-a1 swap thread.
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (dubduc)

I can do it with 4 beers, a pack of smokes in about 10 hours... and have it running.
Then again, I've been doing this for too long
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (karmann16v)

guys i have a question
i just got an engine from a 91 16v 2.0 L jetta
and im wondering if i have to get a diferent manifold...... i have heard that i need a exh manifod and downpipe ffrom a scirocco
any other option??
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (Otacon)

Quote, originally posted by Otacon »
i have heard that i need a exh manifod and downpipe ffrom a scirocco

You just answered your question.
Any other option requires a bit more monay... aka, real headers. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (Otacon)

i am too man, thanks for all the info guys...
looks like im gonna go forward with this http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
how is wiring it all up. like i said this is my first swap but i have some bentleys, buncha tools, and hands looking to get dirty
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (rs4-380)

Fiat x-19...nice car..had one needed a lot more power..never got passed playing follow the leader..love them corners..lots of corners..
But what we need is a bit more info of what is involved in this swap..
I got a 91 cabby with the digifant..so do i need pluck certain wire harnesses, or is it bolt up plug in and drive car.. anything is do-able but there is nothing worse then hitting a brick wall in the middle of a modification.
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (VeeDubDriver1990)

Quote, originally posted by VeeDubDriver1990 »
Won't the 16 valve head just bolt to the 8 valve block? I know it's not
as simple as "tab A, slot B" stuff, but isn't that an easier way to do
it?

the valves will collide with the pistons.
No it isnt easier.. I can have motors swapped, before you'd have the heads swapped, and that's in the driveway, with a floorjack, car stands and hand tools

It's a cake-job, and I've done several.. Even one was converting my '82 Caddy diesel to 2.0L 16v
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (itschuck2c)

Quote, originally posted by itschuck2c »
But what we need is a bit more info of what is involved in this swap..
I got a 91 cabby with the digifant..so do i need pluck certain wire harnesses, or is it bolt up plug in and drive car.. anything is do-able but there is nothing worse then hitting a brick wall in the middle of a modification.

A 91 Digi2 Cabby.. going to 16v requires scirocco 16v exh. manifold and downpipe, a fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator adapter, of which several companies make them, BBM is my choice, and new digifant injector cups with injector seals (very cheap @ dealer)..
Digifant runs a PL or 9A 16v just fine.. you'd be quite surprised at the power gained.. In a nutshell, swap motors, swap exh. mani/downpipe, use the injectors from the digi motor, remove the brass injector cups from the 16v head, install the new ones, replace the o-rings on the injectors, relocate your temp switches, then fire that bad boy up! 8-10 hrs for the swap, complete, if you use the 16v trans as well (recommended, as it is geared to take full advantage of the 16v's torque and hp..)

87 Cabby is CIS, 2.0L 16v is CIS Motronic.. swap the entire harness over.. still, it's an easy process.. shouldnt add much time to the swap.


Modified by qwikxr at 9:52 AM 9-22-2005
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (qwikxr)

oh yeah...not to be a d1kk, but

This has been covered at least 10 times this year..
 

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Re: 16v Cabby - how hard? (qwikxr)

Quote, originally posted by qwikxr »
oh yeah...not to be a d1kk, but

This has been covered at least 10 times this year..

This is why I'm always so afraid to ask anything.

I'm going ahead with a swap or a rebuild this winter, and am very confused on a lot of things. I still don't even know if I'll be dealing with cis or digi.

I seriously think somebody needs to write a "Cabby Swaps for Dummies" book. Preferably with little words, and lots of pictures.
God knows I'd buy one.
 
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