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'92 Modded Dig 2 16V swap done but little issues arise..

So my Digi conversion has been done around 2 years ago but I have kept the car in the garage.. Ever since I completed the full conversion, I have had problems with the oil level light blinking in the cluster and the Coolant temp light flickering.. Is there a way to go through this or a remedy for it? I used the Dig 2 sensors as recommended in the initial install diagram..

Thanks,
Chris
 
so have few questions. have a 88 gti 16v (ce1) and po swapped to digi2(ce2) but still has the ce1 fuse/relay blocks. had spark,fuel etc. tried to get started and lost spark....changed ecu, distributor w/ hall sender, and coil also checked all grounds still no spark.battery is relocated to trunk if that means anything. anyone have any ideas? must i swap new ce2 fuse block and harness and start new?
 
wiring question

Hi guys,
I'm the process of swapping a 2.0 16v into my 86 cabriolet, I rebuilt the engine and added some small mods like autotech cams, raceland headers and solid mounts. As of today, the engine is already in the car but I am having trouble with the digifant 2 wiring harness. Ive seen a picture of a labeled wiring harness but I think that is from a digi 1, and from what I can see, it is a little different.
So what I need is a picture of a labeled Digi 2 wiring harness or something that could help me identify the pins.

Thanks for reading this. Any help would be very appreciated.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
need help

i have a problem with my 1990 gli with the midtroic system i was thinking of putting a carb on but want to keep fuel injection system could you send me step by step t help me with this conversion plz respond back
 
swap w/o ISV possible? engine is running like crud!

hey folks, read almost the entire thread, good stuff, hoping someone has some insight here.

I did a 16v 2.0 turbo install running Digi I from a Corrado. Almost everything is new, except the coil and 16v coolant temp sensor. The car starts and idles fine all day long, but boggs and bucks under load and sometimes when trying to hold revs in neutral.

the only major difference in install procedure is that I opted to not use the ISV. I'm in texas, we see 32deg F maybe two days out of the year (like tonight) so I don't mind warming the engine up a few min before leaving the house which is what I read people do when they do an ISV delete. Since the OBD2 throttlebody I'm using has no idle adjustment mechanism, I'm running a 1/8NPT bypass hose from the intake pipe just before the t-body to the intake manifold. I do have a ball valve inline but it seems to idle at a sweet 850-900 rpm with the valve fully open (so I prob don't need it, but it's there in case idle rises after being run a long time and I need to choke it a bit)

It's not turbo related, as I've disconnected the plumbing after the IC so it's basically like a N/A digi setup. The digi1 (corrado) co-pot aka. MAF is located 9" from the t-body and it ohms out good, set to 500.

gas goes form new fuel cell to new cis fuel pump to new inline filter to injector rail for 3.5bar fpr to return line/tank. I see a constant 48psi on my gauge at the end of the rail before the FPR during idle, but can't monitor it during driving. I'll try to rotate it and run w/o a hood or maybe install a pressure sensor/gauge later but I have no reason to believe it's starving for fuel. Running the pump to a bucket, it does surge which I know is bad for CIS but from what I read it's ok for Digi due to the lack of a diaphram/distributor.

And spark shows up nice when I use a timing light, and no arcing as i did a water mist test at night. again everything is new, brand new dist, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, o2, knock. Grounds are solid, running dual Optimas in the trunk and alt is putting out ~13.8. No vacuum leaks that I know of as I only have vacuum lines running to brake booster, ecu, fpr, boost gauge, and bov

I'm contemplating using the ISV, but I would rather not try to figure out how to custom fab it into the already diminishing space under the bonnet, so I'm hoping aomeone would have a say or other ideas to check.

ps. i also tried 2 diff chips in the ECU and the car performs the same using both a stock and stage4.
 
hopefully these chips are made for the engine? (2.0 16vt)? and not the 1.8 8v g60 engine?

engine destruction will be the result of using a G60 chip with a turboed 16valver
That statement you made is a little misleading...

A 16vT, or any car for that matter running Digi I/II will run safely, forever, using -any- chip, as long as you aren't flooring it everywhere and esp if you drive it without building any boost. It just won't run very well.

It did not run excellent, but there was no engine destruction. air/fuel was reporting safe numbers at all times. Digi I runs simple maps between idle and WOT due to the lack of a TPS.

I have the BBM one in there now, and the car runs better, still working out problems at upper rpms... :/
 
Can you use a 16V TB if you plan on not running an ISV?
doesnt matter.
im using the 1.8 16v tb from a rocco with no issues, besides having to rewire the throttle switches.
first start up was with no isv (plugged), and it ran fine.
 
My mk2 19v digi

I have two movies of my 16v 9A with Digifant II from "PF". Engine is 100% series oryginal.





First with 8v PF injectors and 4bar fuel pressure regulator:



Second with g60 green injectors and 3bar regulator:





sorry for my bad english.
 
16v digi2 no power

Hi guys for about 1 month I have been working on my 87 gti 1.8 16v

-engine fully rebuilt
-all brand new parts

heres my problem iswap it to digi 2 but still using my US spec fuse box....with bbm fuel rail and 8v fpr but the thing is that the car is not running properly doesn't keep idle at first I changed the cooling sensor it seemed like it was running fine but it wasn't bes=cause everytime the cooling is pluged(using blue cooling sensor from jetta)car wont start once unplug it starts.....

I also figure out that I didnt have enought pressure on the fuel rail so I optimized for the audi 2.8 injectors and I raised fuel pressure now the car idles but really fckn high
made all the adjustment still high

BUT HERES THE MAJOR PROBLEM if I go on the road with the car theres no power the car doesn't want to advance It runs like if its missing gas or timming it runs really bad.

so ive been looking on forum and stuff and im wondering if someone who did the swap and to who it actually work perfectly fine would be able to give me some guide tip beause well car starts doesn't keep idle and doesn't advance

Took everything from a 92 jetta 8v still using same 16v tb engine code PL 8v isv blue cooling sensor

thanks a lot
 
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