VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
281 - 300 of 308 Posts
CIS-E replacement throttle switches

So, VW has NLA'ed the throttle switch (idle / WOT) switch assembly (VW part# 027-133-061-B)
Fear not! McMaster-Carr has usable replacements!
McMaster-Carr # 7658K13 is dimensionally damned close, has the correct lever, and has an identical mounting hole pattern.
Product page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7658k13/=riq5fk
From catalog page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/887/=m83fid
Simply cut your old one off of the wiring and bracket, and bolt & splice the new part on (minor tweaking of the lever may be necessary.)
 
I have a 92 16v Motronic and lately I've noticed during the first 5 minutes of driving after a cold start, my throttle response from a stop has a delay in a way were if i tapped the pedal fast my car would rev but a split second late. And i just had a recent incident where the car actually died from the idle dropping below when coming down from the rev when simply pulling out of my driveway. After the car has been warmed up it seems the throttle response is fine with no delay. Any feedback would be great on this, Thanks
 
Intake leaks would be the most-likely cause. Start there.

Anything past that:
Please start a new thread. The FAQ threads are for aggregating shared information, not for troubleshooting. ;)
 
What do you guys say about running at 1050 idle on an mk2 2.0 16v, I did advance my distributor timing a little, was aiming for just 1000rpm, well it's just a hair below 1000 when started from cold, but gets to 1050 after a drive. No noticeable detonation unless I'm not noticing it. It sure does move though.:cool:

Other that the above I was running at around 950 idle and was alright, but was doing some work under the hood an might of slightly retarded my timing so that's why I timed by ear to 1000, really thought I had 950, but it settles at 1050 after it's warm.
 
Good morning crew..

I have two issues with my 91 2.0l 16v. I bought the car built but since then I've replaced a lot of things on her.

Quick list within the last 6-8months

New motor mounts
New flywheel
New pressure plate
New clutch disk
New front strut bushings/bearing
Rebuilt head, because my tensioner seized and bent some valves:/
New plug wires and plugs dist cap, rotor button
New/used knock sensor
New 2 1/4" tt exhaust including cat, and oxygen sensor after the cat.(mind you the oxygen sensor on the downpipe is cut)

Ok so my problems are stalling and vibration. I know, it's at mk2 things are going to vibrate but this is different. Its sounds a feels like a metal band, and it only happens during acceleration at 2500-3000to4000rpm. Any ideas? Quickly I'm just going to add that I don't have a power steering pump, and haven't isolated the system yet. I was told it's ok but not the best.

The second issue is when I first start the car for the day and go for a drive it runs rough and sounds like a misfire. When I disengage the clutch and come to a stop it'll either stall or just barely stay running. But it's not all the time. Only on occasions. Any ideas?

I'll gladly add anything you need to know to help with diagnosing.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Good morning crew..

I have two issues with my 91 2.0l 16v. I bought the car built but since then I've replaced a lot of things on her.

Quick list within the last 6-8months

New motor mounts
New flywheel
New pressure plate
New clutch disk
New front strut bushings/bearing
Rebuilt head, because my tensioner seized and bent some valves:/
New plug wires and plugs dist cap, rotor button
New/used knock sensor
New 2 1/4" tt exhaust including cat, and oxygen sensor after the cat.(mind you the oxygen sensor on the downpipe is cut)

Ok so my problems are stalling and vibration. I know, it's at mk2 things are going to vibrate but this is different. Its sounds a feels like a metal band, and it only happens during acceleration at 2500-3000to4000rpm. Any ideas? Quickly I'm just going to add that I don't have a power steering pump, and haven't isolated the system yet. I was told it's ok but not the best.

The second issue is when I first start the car for the day and go for a drive it runs rough and sounds like a misfire. When I disengage the clutch and come to a stop it'll either stall or just barely stay running. But it's not all the time. Only on occasions. Any ideas?

I'll gladly add anything you need to know to help with diagnosing my problems
I forgot a few things:

New battery and positive cables

Used mk3 starter

Another thing I wanted to add was last fall I was driving and some wiring was exposed near my starter and it started a little fire as I was driving. I only drove about a 1/4 of a mile like this but I think something else in that area could have been damaged


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
CIS-E replacement throttle switches

So, VW has NLA'ed the throttle switch (idle / WOT) switch assembly (VW part# 027-133-061-B)
Fear not! McMaster-Carr has usable replacements!
McMaster-Carr # 7658K13 is dimensionally damned close, has the correct lever, and has an identical mounting hole pattern.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/887/=m83fid
Simply cut your old one off of the wiring and bracket, and bolt & splice the new part on (minor tweaking of the lever may be necessary.)


i do realize that there is a long time since you wrote this. but does these switches also have a digi-key part number? :)

do you or anyone else know?

you can buy the OEM idle/wot switches from vwclassic at 60 euros... but that is too damn expensive
 
I looked, but didn't quite find them.
Of course, that could be because it isn't always easy to find something weird at Digi-Key without a part number... :p

I'm sure that they do. You'd just need to play with the online catalog for a while.
Here's the product page at McMaster:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7658k13/=riq5fk
 
I'm going to be running dual Webber 42's on my 2.0 16v. I've done some research but never found anything solid. I was wondering what distributor to use. I've seen on the forums that people use 8v Saab distributors but still unsure and was wondering if there was any thing other than that? :confused:
 
ok so I had a 91 jetta gli with mechanical fuel inj. Then I got a 89 2 door jetta with digifant inj. Now I was going to use mega squirt to run the 16 valve in the 91 but I hear that using the digi will work also however is there a better way to run the digi without having to use the dam flappy air door meter to control it. I was hoping there was a way to use a mass air flow sensor or possibly a map controlled system? any thoughts or links would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 
Just go megasquirt and never look back, it's what I did. Best thing is that you can tune around any future mods. Say, like a turbo install (what I'm doing this summer). Or cams, injectors, etc..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
ok so if you don't mind me asking can I see some pictures of your engine bay and wherever you put your ecu. My 16v is already built it has autotech 268 cams undercut valves upgraded springs and retainers ported head je pistons arp head studs and I have a fuel rail and injectors already. I also have the throttle body off a Passat with tps on it.
 
281 - 300 of 308 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top