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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys(and girls)
as the topic name says, my 16V won't start. It is a 91 2L, so far I have charged the battery(also attempting to start it on boost charge), checked the plugs and I am getting spark, distributor is clean(new cap and rotor), fuel line cracked open and gas comes out, the fuel pump was noisy so I replaced it, transfer pump is giving gas. It turns over like a champ, but will not start.
Any suggestions please!
here is a pic of mr.blue(old wheels)(also helps to get hits) please bring him back to life...



Modified by Mr.BlueVW at 6:48 PM 2-16-2004
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

check for vaccum leaks, especially big ones between the fuel distributor and throttle body....sounds like it should go though, how did it happen? its cold and it wouldnt start? or it died while driving?...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: 16V not running, HELP! (1phtgti)

I will check for vacuum leaks, but I am pretty sure there are none... It was really cold out(-30) and it died outside my office, it didn;t start for a few days then I got it going for no apparant reason. warmed it up, left it for a day thinking it was just cold, then tried to fire ity after that...and nothing.
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

Have you changed you spark plugs? I would try to do that or at least clean up your old ones with a lighter or something. Did the plugs seem like they had way too much gas on them? Were they flooded? Seriously it sounds like too easy of a fix, but just change the plugs and try and start it.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Je2tta)

they werent flooded when I checked them at all, they seemed pretty dry but I will give that a shot tomorrow. I know, I am totally frustrated because it DOES sound like an easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: 16V not running, HELP! (LeatherMK2)

Nope, I already replaced the cap and rotor a couple months ago... and I am getting spark out to my plugs.
BTW, what are dizzy parts?


Modified by Mr.BlueVW at 8:35 AM 2-17-2004
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

yea definitely check for vacuum leaks.. and if you can.. check the wires around the ignition coil and the ecu. They may be corroded and not sending a strong signal...happened to me.. so..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: 16V not running, HELP! (biltpa)

AHHH, I wasn't sure it was possible to not send enough of a signal...
anyone else have better ideas than me?
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

Do you smell fuel after repeated starts? If so, go into the relay panel and disconnect the the fuel pump relay. With the relay disconnected, try turning the moter over for a while, this will clear your cylinders of any excess gas. Reattach the relay and try starting it again. I am not sure where the relay panel is on your year, but on mine (87) it is on top of the fuse box. You have to remove some screws to get to it.
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

I don't know it off the top of my head, but if your relay panel is where mine is (on top of the fuses), it is the top right relay. Top right if you are facing forward in the car.
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (voltron1011)

just skimmed through this post and I haven't seen anything about it yet so I'll ask...
is there enough gas? If you have little gas everything could freeze up.
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

Just for poops and snickers hook a switch and a length of wire in with your cold start valve. Make a circuit with the battery. When you close the switch while cranking the engine the car should start and will idle off of the cold start valve. Of course this is all providing there is ample spark involved. You could also verify the integrity of your intake boots. They crack, the motor may go too lean to start. Just a couple of thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: 16V not running, HELP! (89GLI16V)

So I tried and looked at everything here(except the cold start valve trick, I am not sure I know what you mean...) and still nothing, i think it might be haunted.(more likely, I am just an idiot)
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

Honestly, I don't think it is the cold start valve.... The car would still make an attempt to start even with the cold start valve disconnected. I have mine disconnected plenty of times and it still starts.
Don't get frustrated too bad, all of us Vdubbers wanted to roll our cars in front of oncoming trains at one point. Verify your 3 rules of combustion one more time (air, fuel, spark)... Make sure they are all taking place at the cylinder.
Are the plugs getting REALLY fouled after repeated starts? If they are moderately fouled it could mean your in-tank fuel pump is on the fritz (mine did the same thing) Especially with only a 1/4 tank of fuel. The in-tank fuel pump works the hardest with less than 1/2 a tank. Most people can still drive their cars with blown in-tank pumps and they don't even realize there bad.
Also, go back to your relay box and take out the fuel pump relay again and bridge receptical with a wire, so that the fuel pump will stay on constantly. The two BIG receptacles on relay panel (fuel pump) are the ones you want to bridge. You will hear the fuel pumps stay on from thay point. Now go to your trunk and put your ear to the fuel tank... You should hear it whirring away.
Try to start the car with the relay bridged.... It may be a bad relay not keeping the pumps on after you start it...
Let me know if that helps at all.


Modified by voltron1011 at 4:39 PM 2-18-2004
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (voltron1011)

My only thought behind jumping the cold start valve was if for some reason fuel isn't making it from the fuel dist. to the cylinders. That's all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: 16V not running, HELP! (voltron1011)

Should my plugs be wet after repeated attempts to start? Is that a sure way tot tell i am getting gas in the cylinders?(if not, what is?)
I can bridge the plugs if I pull them out, so that is a positive
 

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Re: 16V not running, HELP! (Mr.BlueVW)

If the plugs are REALLY wet and fouled than you know that the fuel system is ok. If they are fouled you will know just by how they look.
If they are moderatly wet with no signs of fouling (black goop) , the intank pump may be going bad.... My spark plugs were wet, but just moderately. Generally, after repeated attempts at starting a VW, you will quickly foul the plugs. This is because the cold start valve will tell the 5th injector (manifold) to squirt extra fuel into the intake. This is why I asked you if your car smells like gas after repeated attempts at cranking it.
What I am getting at is that even though you are getting fuel to the cylinder, it may not be enough to sustain ignition... If the in-tank pump isn't 'boosting' the fuel pressure, the main pump will only be able to 'trickle' fuel to the injectors.
When this happened to me, I would try to start the car and it would turn over (actually start) a few times and then die out. I would try it again and it wouldn't start at all, it would just crank away. I tried to start it again few hours later and it fired up for about 5 minutes before choking out again. I knew my fuel pump (external) was working because I had the relay jumpered. At that point I didn't know these cars had two fuel pumps, so I thought mine was working fine. I finally bought a fuel pump for 30 bucks and realized that it was not at all like my pump. This is when I found out the in-tank pump wasn't working. I changed out the in-tank pump and it has run like a champ since http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Modified by voltron1011 at 5:57 PM 2-18-2004


Modified by voltron1011 at 6:03 PM 2-18-2004
 
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