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12,817 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A little history of this car.
The owner purchased this car with a 20 year old repaint that was, well, ghastly.
It was the same color, with the exception that the body arches were masked and
sprayed pink. Yes, pink.
Given that the paint was literally cracking and lifting down to bare metal near the
decklid, the owner had us strip the car down to bare metal, straighten all the panels
and repaint the car the single, original color.
I don't have pics of what the body guy had done. But, allow me to just say that
Gary is amazing at what he does, and he's just one of those guys that was born
to do body work.
I got called up to do the final buff-out of the paint work. The car arrived to me
wet-sanded with 800 grit paper, because someone opened the damn curtain
right after the "last" coat of clear had been sprayed, causing some serious fish
eye problems. So, they laid on another two coats of clear, for five total, to give
me a nice padding of clear to work with, lol.

So, I went at it, blocking the entire car with 1000 grit wet, and marked all the
fisheyes with body pen, to highlight the relief. I removed the fisheyes with
additional passes with 800 grit, and then 1000 grit to remove low spots.

After I was satisfied with the results, I blocked the car with 2000 grit, wet, and
started to prepare for polishing. You can see that there were a couple of low-ish
spots from the fisheye remnants, but they were pretty deep originally, and it'd
just be better to work them out in the buffing stage.

Since the preceding work took me seven hours... I only made two passes with
Einzett Intensive Paste (part of their pro, body shop line) using a Milwaukee
rotary at 1500-3000 RPMs and a Lake Country 7" Yellow Compounding Pad.

Anyway, I'll keep updating this thread, and I'll bring my better digicam (only 2MP
shown here), so I can keep the thread alive. This car has all sorts of compound
radius curves in the body, and there are a few notable things like drips in the
clear and other fisheyes in the hood that I want to show here, and provide some
information to you folks on how to take them out, safely.
I'll also have another forthcoming thread where I'll give a step-by-step
on wetsanding a newer car (my girlfriend's 2003 Focus) to restore paint that
would take forever buffing alone.

Modified by LeBlanc. at 8:56 PM 10-15-2008

12,817 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: 195X Mercedes SL220 coupe - body restoration/repaint. (autoking91)

Day two:
My arrival... the white streaks on the front fender are from the squeegee, so no
worries there. Time to sand the hood.

The clear on the hood laid down pretty flat, so I only had to block with 2000
grit, wet. Sand in one direction, then the other, wipe it down, see where you
have to sand some more, lol.

This is the car about 2/3 buffed (first pass). Thanks to Mike at http://www.1z-usa.com for
providing a Purple Foam Wool pad to make work easier. Coupled with Intensive
Paste, the work wasn't too hard. I'd like a heavier cutting compound for this,
though. As you can see, all the seams are taped off... as Brody will also tell
you... you gotta tape if you're gonna go ape-isht with a rotary and any wool
pad. Save yourself hours of headaches, and spend the 15 minutes taping off.

Modified by LeBlanc. at 3:50 AM 10-17-2008
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