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Discussion Starter · #924 ·
I haven't looked closely, but I think the engine just has the usual 100,000-mile crud.

11:
Food Table Serveware Tableware Wood

This is the other caliper carrier after a morning removing thick rust and finishing it off with acid and brass brushes. IDK how durable the surface would be as-is, but it looks plated.

Painted:
Cuisine Gas Wood Dish Automotive tire

Astute observers will note that my display surface is again being used for so-called "baking". Reaction to the caliper carrier appeared tepid, but that's only because my achievements are misundersrtood.

On the plus side, I have a neighbor who always "knows a guy" and he came through with flying colors again: I'll have access to heavy-duty blasting equipment Wednesday, so I can pause this painful countdown phew.

The "good" side of the shop is filling up nicely:
Kitchen cart Wood Floor Gas Machine


Shelf Automotive tire Shelving Wood Tread


The "bad" side isn't so bad anymore and it'll hopefully all get taken care of next week:
Brown Wood Tool Art Hand tool


Holy isht! Is it too soon to hope this thing could be on its wheels by the New Year?

Urethane goop (to fill the bump stops) and paint, 11655/2373
 

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I too must've been one of the goofs that were enjoying the parade of sad, crusty parts being turned into happy, beautiful parts. It's like binge-watching a makeover show...for car parts.

I'll take bulk uploads after heavy-duty blasting equipment is utilized.

(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #926 ·
Hopefully this heavy blasting will the last of the nasty jobs... I prepped the knuckles and the swing arms for blasting, covering vulnerable areas.

I put old bolts where there's threads or machined tapers, and I pressed 1/8" thick ABS plastic discs over the bearing faces, covered with 'glass filler for good measure:
Saw Wood Automotive tire Trunk Automotive wheel system


Gas Circle Auto part Metal Fashion accessory


For the gap between the hub and the housing, I pulled Paracord taught and glued the ends with thin CA:
Helmet Hat Automotive tire Wood Bumper

How 'bout that rust o_O

I have no doubt that these measures will fail if I point the blasting nozzle right at them, but I hope to get close and minimize the rust load in my $100 bucket of Evaporust.

I haven't seen the engine in a while:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Rim

It's not too bad. Preliminary plan is clean and doll it up, replace the timing belt/water pump and the oil cooler, and fix various broken knick-knacks.

Haldex filter, the wrench for it, and the special oil, 11735/2376
 

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Hey Eric. For the past few weeks your photos no longer display. Have you changed how you're posting them?
They work for me. You can't use tapatalk to view picturew with the new forum software.
 

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Discussion Starter · #930 ·
The problem isn't mechanical so I can't help you :oops:

I started on the engine today, first removing the bulkiest items that just get in the way:
Font Engineering Machine Auto part Composite material

The engine mounts are waaaay sturdier than our A1 cars, another way in which the TT's strength would be hard to duplicate by just replacing the center tunnel.

Heater core is gone so I looped the feed hose around:
Hand Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gesture Finger

On V.2 of the car I'll modify the crack pipe so it's less cheezy.

A few things will get deleted. I'm not using the engine covers so this bracket can go:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Steering part Automotive design Automotive exterior


There's no A/C or power steering so the massive accessory bracket will get pared down:
Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas

(The auxiliary air pump hoses will need to be replaced. IIRC the OBD knew they were broken and it was thowing emissions codes till the hoses got a tape wrap)

I familiarized myself with the engine harness:
Gas Composite material Metal Auto part Event

I have all the end connections labelled but I may need to lean on some of you TT owners to disclose what wires go into which retainers/brackets. The wiring was tangled in with the various hoses in a manner that will be hard for me to reproduce.

Then I just stared at the engine for a while.The big stuff is standard but I had search some numbers to learn about smaller parts:
Vehicle Gas Auto part Motor vehicle Automotive exterior

I'll give 'em credit for a lot of power and AWD in a small package, but it's not ideal for restoration or even servicing. The turbo's center section is water-cooled and with the oil feed and return lines, plus the emissions plumbing, various sensors and the AWD, there's bespoke fiberglass blankets and shields everywhere. To take this all apart and adequately document everything for reassembly would be a real challenge and I need to plan around that somehow.

11735/2379
 

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If you want to descend into the rabbit hole, there is a MASSIVE thread in the Mk4 forum about "shaved" engine bays. Now, this is typically going to extreme lengths to hide wiring, hoses and make it appear as simple as possible, so some compromises are made in many situations that make them far less easy to work on.

Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory...
 

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Discussion Starter · #934 ·
@Ed: yessir; I'll feel better if the blasting goes well.

@Tim: yikes, that thread is 151 pages long! Those MkIV folks must really like tidying their engines bays. I like the look but I'll table that lest I never finish the project...

Ref. Supplemental Air Injection: AFAIK the OBD will know if it's absent? I don't mind stored codes for things like the A/C delete, but I don't want CELs so I'm keeping all emissions components for now. I won't out rule software patches to get rid of some of that carp on V.2 of the car.

I put the engine back under wraps and started on all the loose engine bay parts. Stuff's in good shape but I want it clean and/or painted, so bit by bit, here I go again...

Overflow bottle:
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design


Bracket for the left charge pipe and the after-run coolant pump module which it also holds:
Light Motor vehicle Hood Engineering Auto part

The module is the rectangular thing under the bracket. It had threaded steel inserts that froze so I changed over to stainless studs. "Pardon our dust during renovations".

Dogbone mount:
Air gun Bicycle part Bumper Rim Gun barrel

The bolts were carp and froze in the subframe, so I'm trying out CV bolts.

Rest of the [massive] transmission mount:
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive design Bumper


[Massive] engine mount:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Machine


There's a bunch of little parts that gobble time; I won't picture them all... or maybe I will. CV joint shield and a bracket that holds the oil level sensor harness to the back of the engine:
Automotive design Automotive exterior Font Auto part Logo


11735/2383
 

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@deathhare "Why not just ditch the SAI altogether? Its nothing but trouble as the cars age."

What is this foreign language ("SAI") you are speaking of! I tried Google translate but nothing came up! JK...
 

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@deathhare "Why not just ditch the SAI altogether? Its nothing but trouble as the cars age."

What is this foreign language ("SAI") you are speaking of! I tried Google translate but nothing came up! JK...
Secondary Air Injection. It goes bad and your Check Engine Light comes on. VCDS will not clear it. It cost me around $500.00 to fix on my Phaeton if I remember correctly.

See page 35:

Self-Study Programme 207 The Audi TT Coupé (volkspage.net)

And page 32:

SSP 175 (englisch) (volkspage.net)
 

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Discussion Starter · #939 ·
@OE: those links are fantastic, thank you!

Now seems like a good time to say that I appreciate all suggestions because people have saved me a lot of trouble. OTOH don't take it personally when I table ideas that aren't critical. The things I've done so far, like the body, interior, etc... were to progressively reduce the magnitude of the project in chunks, until I'm left with manageable goals. At this time those goals are 1) engine start and 2) get the driveline systems working. I'll remember all other suggestions and I'll circle back if/when the time seems right.

Scott installed some stainless M6 weldstuds to relocate the LDP setup from inside the fender:
Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


I tweaked the OEM bracket, added stainless standoffs and fasteners, and it looks like Audi did it...
Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Metal Auto part

...except stainless.

This [OEM] bracket under the rain tray holds various lines away from the engine:
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Grille Bumper


And with that, I finally finished populating the right side fof the engine bay:
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


11735/2386
 

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The problem isn't mechanical so I can't help you :oops:


(The auxiliary air pump hoses will need to be replaced. IIRC the OBD knew they were broken and it was thowing emissions codes till the hoses got a tape wrap)



Then I just stared at the engine for a while.The big stuff is standard but I had search some numbers to learn about smaller parts:
View attachment 135160
I'll give 'em credit for a lot of power and AWD in a small package, but it's not ideal for restoration or even servicing. The turbo's center section is water-cooled and with the oil feed and return lines, plus the emissions plumbing, various sensors and the AWD, there's bespoke fiberglass blankets and shields everywhere. To take this all apart and adequately document everything for reassembly would be a real challenge and I need to plan around that somehow.

11735/2379
Nice work Eric. This VW thing we have in common is what got me into Audi's. Well, that and a zillion years ago when my best friend's dad tossed me the keys to his brand new 1980 5000 Turbo kind of helped seal the deal. That said, there is a TON of potential that Audi leaves on the table with regards to their turbo charged engines. A stage 1 ECU flash does not over stress this TT engine at all, and increases on demand HP and throttle response with regards to turbo boost profiles, etc. with zero reliability issues. I had this done with my 2001 2.7T Allroad 6sp. Made for a completely different car. One thing I wish I had done at the same time, and will probably eventually do, is code out the secondary air pump. These add so much crap to the engine, with the pump, valving, and associated plumbing. So, since you're deleting PS, AC, etc., perhaps you should consider this. I know a proven tuner who can do this through VAG-COM when your laptop is connected to your home WiFi. VAG-COM purchased through Ross-Tech is something you may consider also. Mine has paid for itself a thousand times.

Your project is awesome. Thanks for sharing the way you do.
 
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