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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Hello neighbor. Maine here, up near Bangor. Where in NH? There are enough engine options thrown out you here to make your head spin, and depending on what you want, they are good options. If you are looking to enjoy it and don't care about speed, I would stick with the original 1.6, but a later 1.8 JH would be a cheap and easy to way for a bit more power. Great looking car btw.
hello neighbor! I live in Hanover NH
Yes sounds like 1.8 may be the way to go if I decide to upgrade
 

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That is an amazing restoration - I wish I had those skills!
That’s my car! Thanks for the kind words!

Metal work is easier than you think - just takes more practice than you think. It’s the body smoothing that takes some real patience and persistence. Most of my car still looks like crap, but I’m proud of some parts of it.

As others said, engine swaps are best when you have the whole donor car at your disposal.
 

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Would a VR6 be able to go into a Mk 1? I saw a youtube video where they put one in but it was janky and quickly done.
 

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But does that run? Seems like the radiator is still something you are working on. That and the left high beam.
 

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But does that run? Seems like the radiator is still something you are working on. That and the left high beam.
Thats an old pic of when it was first fitted. I have a s-pautomotive tucked rad now. The engine bay just got painted. Just waiting on degreeing the cams to put the motor back in. But to answer your question it did run and drive under its own power before I pulled the vr6 back out to paint the bay. If you have any other questions shoot me a pm. I don't want to take over the thread with my build.


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I am in the process of putting a 1.8 8v & 020 transmission in a '76. So far things match up great but I am having a couple of difficulties.

1. I am having the hardest time trying to figure out how to mount the alternator. The passenger motor mount bracket does not leave room for the original alternator mount and the alternator mount from the 1.6 seems to be configured incorrectly for the alternator. Should be simple but I am stumped.

2. This one makes no sense unless my assumptions are incorrect. I assume that I should be able to install the axles without disconnecting the wheels from the frame of the car but I seem to need about 1/2" more clearance to tuck the transmission side of the axles into the cupped mounts of the transmission. The 020 dimensions seems to be identical to the 4 speed so I should not need shorter axles. The only other thing that seems possible is that there is no flexibility in length on the wheel side of the axles like there is on the transmission side. I have replaced many axles including 4Matic Mercedes so it is embarrassing that a Scirocco is beating me.
 

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2. This one makes no sense unless my assumptions are incorrect. I assume that I should be able to install the axles without disconnecting the wheels from the frame of the car but I seem to need about 1/2" more clearance to tuck the transmission side of the axles into the cupped mounts of the transmission. The 020 dimensions seems to be identical to the 4 speed so I should not need shorter axles. The only other thing that seems possible is that there is no flexibility in length on the wheel side of the axles like there is on the transmission side. I have replaced many axles including 4Matic Mercedes so it is embarrassing that a Scirocco is beating me.
Are you popping the balljoint out, so that the wheel assembly comes out enough to tuck it in there? I reread your comment and it sounds like you may not be. If so, yes, you need to pull the wheel assembly out some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Been off the forum for a couple of months but wanted to post a few update pictures

Seats are out - look like they are in pretty good shape. I am not sure if they were re-upholstered or not
Footwear Leg Synthetic rubber Chair Comfort


Comfort Automotive design Flooring Floor Armrest



In the background you can also see that the rear windows were also removed.

Bit of an unhappy surprise taking the weather seal off on the rear hatch. A fair of amount of rust/rot. I hope to have too many of these surprises!
Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Car Automotive design


Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper



That's it for now - I will try to keep posting updates
Joe
 

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Been off the forum for a couple of months but wanted to post a few update pictures

Seats are out - look like they are in pretty good shape. I am not sure if they were re-upholstered or not
View attachment 124780

View attachment 124781


In the background you can also see that the rear windows were also removed.

Bit of an unhappy surprise taking the weather seal off on the rear hatch. A fair of amount of rust/rot. I hope to have too many of these surprises!
View attachment 124784

View attachment 124787


That's it for now - I will try to keep posting updates
Joe
yes those seats are reupholstered
 

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hello neighbor! I live in Hanover NH
Yes sounds like 1.8 may be the way to go if I decide to upgrade
JH 1.8 was the first swap I ever did. The most straightforward you can do as it is the same motor on the outside except for location of head front water outlet. The torque is a pleasant improvement over your stock motor... Just don't use the 'toilet bowl downpipe from a donor Mk1 GTi (or other Mk1). You can use your exhaust manifold (6 bolts and two exhaust 'holes' on the exit) and downpipe. An easy improvement is to use the manifold that has the 6x 10mm studs (your stocker has 8mm studs and you will probably break them if you attempt to separate the downpipe. Use heat and lots of liquid wrench and think good thoughts. I mention separating the downpipe because going to a Techtonics downpipe is an improvement and inexpensive. Your car came with a small throttle body and may also have the smaller diameter airflow sensor plate. Going to a bigger throttle body (such as Neuspeed) and the bigger airflow sensor plate along with the techtonics downpipe will make it breathe better. We aren't talking fire breather, but it will be snappier. On those early throttle bodies they even put a venturi/restrictor in the primary side (smaller side) of the throttle body... i think to increase vacuum signal for vacuum stuff (some of these cars have vacuum operated heater controls etc). This restrictor can be removed if I'm not mistaken. I can look up the specifics of the airflow sensor plate if you want. Some of the detuning (small throttle, small airflow sensor plate) were because of the 1970's fuel crisis. Good thing you got a 1980... first year of electronic ignition.... it's a decent ignition. I mention all this because it looks like you have your hands full with plenty of other things... don't go nuts with the motor. Get yourself a MIG and start practicing to fix that crusty region inside the top hatch area. I'm in a similar project right now. Got a '79 from original owner. Body isn't bad.... worst of it is rust perforation at base of windshield.... aka the cowl. I have a rust free cowl that I need to weld in. The interior was moldy... it all had to go. I've got a 2.0liter Brazilian bubble block that I'm going to put in.... but that's another story. Good luck.
 

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The 1980 Scirocco outside California was CIS Basic and points ignition so no electronics of any kind. A 1.8 8V JH with the correct upper radiator hose will fit exactly as if it were your original engine. The front water jacket on the JH is about 6 inches away from the water jacket on the 1.6/1.7 and the wiring will reach without modification.

Was the 1.8 in a 86 GTI not a JH?

Edit: pardon my ignorance on anything but early cars. I Googled the 86 GTI and it looks like it's a higher compression 8 valve, so it would not be a simple swap; you would need to wire in the ECU, electronic ignition and knock sensor.

Double edit: ref. originality: IMO a well-restored mk1 Scirocco will not lose points for having a 1.8. An unrestored creampuff probably would, but you're already past that. These cars aren't like the muscle cars where matching numbers matters.
the 1.8 in an '86 GTi was not a JH. The JH was in Mk1 Rabbit GTi and is a solid lifter motor with 8.5:1 compression. The early Mk2's GTi's (Golfs) had HT or RD motors (IIRC). I'm talking '85 and '86. These were 1.8 liter hydraulic lifter motors with 10.0:1 compression. I ran one in a Caddy for years with the stock '81 caddy ignition and fuel injection (I did not use the FI and knock sensor ignition from the donor '85 GTi) and rarely had pinging. Don't get crazy with too much timing and I always ran premium fuel and had a large all metal (brass) radiator which kept temps in check. Don't lug it. A stock plastic tank radiator in conjunction with and external oil cooler will do the same as I haven't ever seen a brass radiator in a Scirocco (don't recall if Scirocco and rabbit/caddy radiators interchange).
 

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My bet is you may spend much time working out electrical bugga-boos. If this car had a leaky windshield leak (many did) then water getting on the fuse panel likely caused many of problems. That and there are a few circuits (such as fuel pump power) that are always on and always pulling a decent amount of current... too much for the pin/socket contact in the harness connector that feeds the fuel pump power out of the fuse panel. the pin/socket gets hot and melts the connector housing. Before I fixed that stuff I found myself driving with my left foot pushing on the fuse panel to get the connection to run the fuel pump. Aaaah... good times...LOL. Get yourself a Bentley manual... great wiring diagrams and lots of info on everything. Forums are great but Bentley is the first place to look. Best thing you can do ... period. LMK if you can't find one on Ebay...I may have an extra. I doubt you will have trouble finding one.
 

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Cabriolet's had JH with hydro lifters. Not all JH's were solid.

Just saying.
I did not know that there were hydro JH... thanks for the info. I guess the only difference would be the high volume oil pump and the different head. It's been decades for me and this stuff. Just getting back into it as my kids go off to college my life is freeing up. VW Vortex and it's members are great... glad to see the VW love is still flowing. Looking forward to some VW shows now that Covid is waning.
 

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I've had several 88 Cabriolet's and they all were. I think it was 87-89. Never understood why they did not change the engine letters.

90's went to EFI and high compression, 2H.
 

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I've had several 88 Cabriolet's and they all were. I think it was 87-89. Never understood why they did not change the engine letters.

90's went to EFI and high compression, 2H.
when you say " 90s went to EFI" do you mean Digifant and Motronic?
 
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