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GTI rack was all AL, and afaik no other model got that. Same D rack bushing is used on both sides. Other than that, it’ll work fine. I’m guessing you reused the bushings, otherwise you may have ordered the wrong ones, if sold in a kit.

Only mentioned the heater valve, because I’m 99% sure every Rabbit I’ve ever owned, had it at the top.

Switch harness would only be 2 female disconnects, but if you can get the correct connector, why not? It’s not polarized.

I zoomed in and definitely don’t see the tube. You have a plug in the hole the tube would poke through. That tube uses a specific grommet, if it matters to you.

You have a German pedal cluster on the way? It likely won’t be a direct fit, although I’ve made them work, in a Westy.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
Good call on the heater then. Bentley may have steered me wrong.
Rack bushings looked almost new, cleaned them a bit with dish detergent. I did order new bellows though.
Ill ask to see if my buddy has the harness pigtail for sure. Wiring will be the hardest part of this car since I already removed the CIS stuff from the harness to prepare to semi tuck the wiring.

The pedal cluster is German per Vwpieces. I’ll compare and figure it out once I have it in hand.

Never did a manual swap before so it’s all learning from here. Remove, clean, paint if needed is the nightly process.
 

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Any other info for the heater pipes?
There is an ongoing debate about the merits and correctness of having the cable actuated heater valve on the upper or lower hose. Yours is on the lower. In my experience, there is no issue with having it on the lower, in fact that's the only way that mine works correctly, having tried both ways. There's a lengthy discussion about it a few pages back in my NONSMKR thread.

I think that the brake proportioning (prop) valve on your 1980 is likely an active type mounted adjacent to the rear axle. It equalizes the front and rear brake pressure with a slight bias towards the front to avoid skidding. Other models including the trucks had them in the engine bay adjacent to the master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
There is an ongoing debate about the merits and correctness of having the cable actuated heater valve on the upper or lower hose. Yours is on the lower. In my experience, there is no issue with having it on the lower, in fact that's the only way that mine works correctly, having tried both ways. There's a lengthy discussion about it a few pages back in my NONSMKR thread.

I think that the brake proportioning (prop) valve on your 1980 is likely an active type mounted adjacent to the rear axle. It equalizes the front and rear brake pressure with a slight bias towards the front to avoid skidding. Other models including the trucks had them in the engine bay adjacent to the master cylinder.
I'll just leave the heater valve where it was when I pulled the motor. Pretty sure it was never ever touched.

As for brakes thanks for the info! I'll give it a look!
 

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Other models including the trucks had them in the engine bay adjacent to the master cylinder.
Just to point out, 1980 trucks had them attached to the rear axle, as well. It was changed for 1981.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
Been a week or so, few updates.

Got my parts to assemble the motor 100% minus a cam, but still have the stock one for now.

Also received all my parts from @vwpieces , this dude is the MAN! If you need something chance is he has it!

As soon as I pulled the booster out cleaned it up and got it painted, new MC to go with it also.

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Little more work done tonight, cleaning up some parts and sensors. Brass wire brush on a drill does wonders for the sensor clean up!

Tomorrow I think I'll attack the clutch install, then the 80% kit. After that try and install motor without scratching paint haha.

Before and now pics, not bad for a cleanup I'd say! (Yes I know the spacer on the crank pulley goes behind it)

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
Need some help!!!
Apparently I need to get a new flywheel because I ordered a 210mm clutch kit, and the clutch/flywheel I removed is smaller. Stupid me!

The confusing part now is do I need a 1 or 2 pin flywheel?? I think I need a 2 pin bit the info on the internet is all over the place.

I ordered the Sachs Heavy Duty Clutch, I'll ad a pic below. Flywheels are cheap if it's not a lightweight one. Unless someone wants to sell me one that works?!?

Help me out so I can get this thing out together!


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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Either should work. Can you still find 2 pin?

The earlier 1.8 cars got a 2 pin. I think the 1 pin started with the A3 cars.

-Todd
USRT had 2 choices when I was scrolling around. I don't remember having to pick 1 or 2 pin so now I'm a little gun shy on making the wrong choice.

I suppose I can try what Butcher said and look that up today.
 

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Well, when you bought the clutch, how did you choose it? Looking at the pic, I see one notch, not two.

Can’t make out what’s on your PP, and I’m too lazy to do the cross reference for you!

Actually, maybe I can make out two, on yours…. Not sure….

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Well, when you bought the clutch, how did you choose it? Looking at the pic, I see one notch, not two.

Can’t make out what’s on your PP, and I’m too lazy to do the cross reference for you!

Actually, maybe I can make out two, on yours…. Not sure….

-Todd
I went to the year of hydraulic lifter motors and chose a clutch. Seemed pretty fool proof at the time ha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Ran into another annoying snag.

Went to go install the 80% kit today and once I got the drive flange removed, I realized it's the old style 90mm flange, with the weird thicker gaskets.

I have to either source the old style gaskets, or upgrade to 100mm flanges (probably should anyways!)

Also these flanges didn't have springs behind them so not sure if I can even install the 80% kit since it pushes against the spring to make it work.

Anyone have any personal experience with this. I've been reading many threads and broke VW. I may just email him for more info.
 

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Sounds like you have an early trans. You probably need the later ‘84+ style trans, with the green seal flange.… not sure if you can just add the springs.

Why would you e-mail Broke? Call Gary, the guy who makes the kits.

Seems like you need to slow down, and read about the parts you’re ordering. I’m sure wherever you ordered the Pelolok from, had a description about the required trans spec. You can’t make assumptions, thinking everything is going to be compatible.

I’ve probably installed maybe 5 (maybe more) of these kits, since they came out 10+ years ago. They’re definitely worth the money.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Sounds like you have an early trans. You probably need the later ‘84+ style trans, with the green seal flange.… not sure if you can just add the springs.

Why would you e-mail Broke? Call Gary, the guy who makes the kits.

Seems like you need to slow down, and read about the parts you’re ordering. I’m sure wherever you ordered the Pelolok from, had a description about the required trans spec. You can’t make assumptions, thinking everything is going to be compatible.

I’ve probably installed maybe 5 (maybe more) of these kits, since they came out 10+ years ago. They’re definitely worth the money.

-Todd
Slow down nah! I got the kit 2nd handed from vwpieces. Assuming the trans was a later 90mm. Not a huge deal really.

Also lightweight flywheel ordered since it was only 2 pin I could find that actually said 2 pin.

Back on track once I source a few gaskets, or some flanges with gaskets. Figured Broke would know the 020 part # for old gaskets. Been searching on here for it for about an hour!
 
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