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If the hole is on the fender, you can remove the fender and patch it with a scrap of steel and a MIG. If it's on the cowl, there's often rust inside into the A-pillar and the windshield channel, and a proper repair may necessitate removing the windshield, and finding a replacement if you crack the old one is sometimes a challenge.

The steering column's lower bearing is held by a plastic cage that crumbles in time, and the fixes have been well-described: anything from a hose clamp on the steering shaft to a new bearing assembly, depending on how much work you're willing to do and how much shaming you can endure...

IDK how much an automatic with a rust hole could fetch compared to a GTI or a Caddy, but $2k is very well-bought and IMO it's worth not beating the thing into the ground (not saying that was the plan).

Welcome to The Nuthouse
 

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Yeah, the accumulator does have it's purpose and if it tests bad, it NEEDS to be replaced. I have had many clients that have paid for an accumulator but they still had their problem. Usually the discussion revolves around I do not know what I'm doing and they want their money back. No so much now, but when I was at the dealership. Understanding where the client was coming from, the sales pitch for an accumulator was changed.

My take is that the fuel lines from the fuel distributor to the injectors is what vaporizes and once that area is compromised, that vapor must pass before the liquid fuel is sprayed. This is what I found. Insulating the injector lines did more help than the accumulator.

I believe the manufactures used the cold start valve to spray liquid fuel in the manifold to help it start while the injector lines were bleeding out the vapor. I hope that does make some sense.
My '77 hot soak problem went away when I put a new check valve in the fuel line. IIRC the check valve was a fitting that screwed into the fuel pump outlet (???)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well I finally got it home and paid 1500 instead of the 2 k. It seems to have languished at the hands of folks who don't know much about German or non US vehicles for that matter. It is noisy with exhaust leaks and I'm pretty sure shot eng. and trans mounts.Being a slush box it's no ball of fire but it's pretty rust free for an Ohio auto. I'm going to get it up on a lift and check it out further as soon as my knee stops hurting. Someone put a new ignition switch in it as it will intermittently act if the battery is disconnected and then it comes to life. Maybe the ground is huffed....I haven't looked that close and have to admit it was somewhat of an impulse buy due to the low miles.
 
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