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Discussion Starter #1
swaps-
who's done them??
whats the cost??
how reliable?
worth putting money into the stock engine that has 3hp??
not sure if im posting in correct spot. just curious. i kinda of love the way the old thing runs. but curious to the swap and cost options.
appreciate any help or direction.
 

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The stock engine had low compression. You could install a high compression engine. Try a 90-93 Cabriolet engine, but there are others too.

An ABA engine is another option but there are a few more things you need to think about. I would swap the stock head to the ABA block. You'll have to figure out the ignition distributor and exhaust obstacles.

If I had the engine out, I would not install it without replacing all the gaskets/seals/hoses/clutch/etc. It's a big project and you really do not want to work on it every few months taking care of things that should have been done while the engine was out.

Cost, it really depends on how much for the parts you're going to get. A search is really the only way you are going to find out. So start a list on what you think you need and start pricing all the parts. If it's under $1000, I think your list is wrong.

Whatever the dollar amount you come up with, you might as well double it. When it comes to time, you might as well triple it. You better be good at logistics because if you take on this project, you got a whole bunch of problems you never thought about coming your way.

One skill you might want to hone is searching. Every simple swap that has been done is located somewhere on the Vortex. There are no questions that have not been answered.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
intake manifold is leaking, so im told by mechanic - says he changed seals on injectors and theres a big leak at the intake manifold.
been looking around for how to- any help here. vids- diy info?
read i need ball allen keys- extensions and swivels maybe. alot of wd40- patience.....
id rather not mess things up if possible. appreciate any direction or help
 

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I would only us straight allen wrenches, no ball and tap them in tight. Those factory bolts are soft and a stuck one can mess up your day if it rounds out. I vote the ABA bottom end route.
 

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intake manifold is leaking, so im told by mechanic - says he changed seals on injectors and theres a big leak at the intake manifold.
been looking around for how to- any help here. vids- diy info?
read i need ball allen keys- extensions and swivels maybe. alot of wd40- patience.....
id rather not mess things up if possible. appreciate any direction or help
A mirror or some other way of being able to see the bolt heads will go a long way.

Ball head or straight, make sure the bit is fully inserted into the cap head before you start cranking. Ball head is easier to seat properly but if the bolts are stuck then better off with straight head as long as you’re sure it’s in all the way
 

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take off front engine mount and tilt engine forward as much as you can get away with:thumbup: makes the whole process a lot nicer to deal with:)
 

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Valve lapping compound, allen sockets [6mm], hammer to force the socket into the bolt, pick to clean the socket, air nozzle to clean the socket, and I would not use any type of solvent to break them loose. If you have a breaker bar and are using an allen socket, you can put some tension on the bar and have someone hit the top of the breaker bar with the hammer. Sometimes, that shock while the bolt is under a twisting load will break it free.

When you are turning the ratchet/breaker bar, make certain you are twisting it straight. Do not allow the head of the ratchet to bend with the handle. Keep it centered.

The valve lapping compound at the tip of the socket head will give a little more bite.

Do not allow the allen bolt to strip. If you do, it's all down hill. If the head is starting to distort, then it will eventually round out. I would not use a ball type allen unless the bolt is loose. If the ball breaks, you are really screwed. Some Torx head sockets are idea. I believe a T40 is similar to a 6mm. 12 pt allen sockets pounded in the allen bolt may also work. The more you ruin the head, the worst trouble you are getting in. Adding solvents to the bolt will just allow the tool to round out the bolt head.

If you have a friend with a welder, you may need them. He'll appreciate that there was no solvent sprayed around.

You may want to get new bolts because if you do run into a problem, then you will need new bolts. That may be an issue in some areas of the world/country.

I certainly would think about removing the exhaust manifold, but that certainly is another can of worms.

A good gasket surface does not need any sealer. Do not use sanding discs cause they usually cause more issues to an untrained person than they will solve. If you are unsure and have to use sealer, I would recommend Hylomar. In a spray can, works wonders.

Have fun cleaning the head surface with the exhaust manifold on.

About cleaning, it does not hurt to clean the engine and compartment before you start. The older cars are a bit more touchy about the spray wand. Keep away from the ignition parts. Focus your attention on the place you are going to work. I like Maintex degreaser found at Costco. Works better and cheaper than anything else you will find.

Bring beer, lots of beer. Can coolers are always a plus. Who likes warm beer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
At this point I think that job will have to wait
Going to set up smoke test this week hopefully-
Am noticing oil on the floor in garage and leak seems to be coming from the passenger side- around the motor mount location-
Guessing it’s between block and head-
So think I have more concerning issue there...

Thanks for reply’s and direction
 

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Discussion Starter #13
3hp was well you know - it’s an 84-
Maybe 70- not sure. Think jh. Figured putting money into this old stocker that’s leaking oil - thin between block and head on passenger side by motor mount- it would cost thousands to see any improvement- so thought a 2.0 would be more sense- yea would love a vr in there or he’ll a 1.8t- so was looking for advice-
Was told by a guy who swaps them-
3-4 for 1.8
5 for vr6
And a 2.0 - told me 1k with needed parts-
So now I’m trying to decide- get a list of needed parts and go from there
Stupid oil light blinks constantly- changed the sending unit yesterday- and still blinking
Odometer DONT work - so no clue how many miles- says 126 when stopped-
So that’s where I’m at - plus full of questions
 

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Discussion Starter #14



is the oil i see coming out under spark plug #2- a sign of a head gasket failing???
see oil leaking on the garage floor. looking under the car- looks like there is oil coming from area by motor mount on passenger side of engine.
not sure if its the head gasket leaking or not- but not liking the look of oil between block and head. not a mechanic so i need to ask the stupid questions.

thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
changed valve cover gasket today- was prob leaking and not sure it was sitting correctly- having it off- seemed like a few bolts and the head if off.- i know i have to put in time prior- read the exhaust can come off down stream and head can come off with intake manifold on and the exhaust mani - making it easier to work with off the car- if true.

question now is- what will it cost to rebuild the top end??

debating the 2.0 swap or keep this engine- but slowly but surely throwing money here and there at this one- so before i go too far- friend has a 2.0 motor trans and harness- with cam - 275- he pulled from running car to swap vr and turbo it- .

suggestions.??
 
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