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Hey all,
My friends 95 2.0 is having an issue. I drove it and this it what happens.
Startup idle everything is AOK.
After about 2 minutes in 1st gear either accel or decelerating, the car gargles like it is being starved of something. At an Idle it will do the same and the RPM's drop until the car almost chokes out. If i give it gas it hesitates and the RPM's pick back up.
Tried a Minor tune up was done Air Filter, Plus, Rotor Etc.
Could it be the Fuel Filter or MAF?
He does have some vaccume lines that look all chewed up going from the intake manifold to the FPR and airbox. Going to replace.
>>>
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (98Wulf)

First, I would go through and clean the MAF. Sounds more like a vacuum leak then a dirty MAF. But, it's not like it'll hurt things. Also, while you're at it, clean the TB. While you have that all apart, run through the vacuum system, as it truely sounds like the problem. Espeically the piece that connects to the top of the TB.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (ramylson)

My 95 did the same..It was my MAF, but I would try cleaning it first and the TB and see if you do have any vacuum leaks.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (98Wulf)

Quote, originally posted by 98Wulf »
Hey all,
My friends 95 2.0 is having an issue. I drove it and this it what happens.
Startup idle everything is AOK.
After about 2 minutes in 1st gear either accel or decelerating, the car gargles like it is being starved of something. At an Idle it will do the same and the RPM's drop until the car almost chokes out. If i give it gas it hesitates and the RPM's pick back up.
Tried a Minor tune up was done Air Filter, Plus, Rotor Etc.
Could it be the Fuel Filter or MAF?
He does have some vaccume lines that look all chewed up going from the intake manifold to the FPR and airbox. Going to replace.
>>>

This is my car he's talking about. I just registered.
The tune up I tried was as per Firestone. I had them run a diagnostic on it (my check engine light came on) and they recommended replacing the Ignition Coil, Spark Plugs, Wires, Rotor and Cap. I did all that and about $400 later, still got the same thing.
I'm going to replace the vacuum hoses tonight, but shouldn't that have shown up on a diagnostic?
Any help is appreciated!
Edit: Bah! My car is also a '96, not a '95. I don't know if that makes a difference...


Modified by 96deathTrap at 3:16 PM 5-21-2004
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (96deathTrap)

What were the exact codes in the CEL? It could honestly be a million things. But, for how the car was described as running, led me to believe your problem lies in one of the issues I mentioned before.
As far as the coil, I doubt that you needed to replace it. As, the issues associated with a cracked coil are a little different. So, chances are you didn't need to replace it. But, at least you don't have to worry about a cracked coil anymore.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (98Wulf)

pretty much what mine is doing but, i let it go and it got worse and worse .
how should i clean the maf ,with alcohol in a bag and let it dry?
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (dramalkc)

Quote, originally posted by dramalkc »
how should i clean the maf ,with alcohol in a bag and let it dry?

Here: Click me, I'm a "How-To" post
The pictures don't work, but really aren't needed as the procedure is really straight forward.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (ramylson)

the pics dont come up but i can run with the descriptions,i might be picking up a couple today from the junkyard, and trying them also
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (ramylson)

Quote, originally posted by ramylson »

As far as the coil, I doubt that you needed to replace it. As, the issues associated with a cracked coil are a little different. So, chances are you didn't need to replace it. But, at least you don't have to worry about a cracked coil anymore.

I had the everything I listed replaced almost two years to the day previous. That really bothered me, because we all know that stuff is not cheap at all.

And I'm going to try the vacuum hoses before I even bother with the MAF. I did disconnect the MAF as per 98wulf's advice previously, and it had no affect on the hesitations.....sadly.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (96deathTrap)

Having the MAF disconnect throws the entire deal off. Just disconnecting it won't "solve" or localize the problem. If it's reading poor, disconnecting it will look similar if not worse to the ECU. In both cases, the ECU won't know the flow of air, throwing the whole mixture off.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (ramylson)

One other thing I noticed is that when the weather is crappy, it gets worse. When it's nice and sunny outside, it only happens once or twice during a drive. When it's crappy, I get it every couple minutes, if that.
Could that still be caused by vacuum hoses?
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (96deathTrap)

Ya'll are not alone in this....
I have a 95 Jetta GLS and since the same problem occured to me the following has been done to mine - new cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, blaster 2 coil - and after that it still didn't run. After having a stealership run a check they told me I needed a new ECU and coil. So then i put on an OEM spec. coil and put in a good used ecu. Car still not running right.
I was told by a tech to check for a plugged cat. (doesn't sound like mine is) And then on here I was told to change the o2 sensor and the fuel filter.
Probably gonna do the MAF tonight if i get time.
Quote, originally posted by 96deathTrap »

New Spark Plugs, Wires, Ignition Coil, Rotor and Cap...TWICE: $900
Pulling into traffic and not being able to accelerate: Priceless

can we make this the Jetta 2.0 motto????
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (SuperDan)

Quote, originally posted by SuperDan »

can we make this the Jetta 2.0 motto????

Yes. And I'm going to add to it momentarily.
I changed my vacuum hoses and it still didn't fix it. My buddy is going to bring over his shop manual shortly and I'm going to clean the MAF and see if that does it.
 

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Re: 2.0 Hesitation (96deathTrap)

Update:
I just pulled out my MAF and it's actually drying on my patio right now. When I pulled it out, I noticed a good deal of what I believe to be oil in the airbox and the hose that leads into the engine or where-ever. (I'm no mechanic)

Is that good? Should I clean all that out with a paper towel or something? And how would I keep this from happening in the future?
 

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It's normal for these engines, but a design flaw. There are many threads suggesting solutions, like the oil catchcan modification. You should regularly clean the intake boot and throttle body due to this oil travel. Use intake cleaner. This was suggested by ramylson in the second post.



Modified by surferfletch at 9:25 AM 5-29-2004
 

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Whats funny is I've been having the same problem with my ride. 95 jetta 2.0. I'm tryin to sell the thing but i want to get my idle strait first. It started out with the irratic idle on cold starts. Then it moved up to an irratic idle with misfiring almost all the time. The car wont accelarate correctly and displays a lack of power. During deccelaration, its as if the idle wont go back down to where it should and the car tends to buck and pull along with my foot off the gas. The problem is more servere in poor weather. Plugs, wires, coil, and cap are all fine. To date I have tried: the wd-40 on the coil and cap trick, cleaning the entire intake system from air box to tb and all sensors in between with intake cleaner. The Vw dealer charged me $178 to check all vaccum lines clean the catch can and various valves. They then cleaned the idle stabalizer valve which i think is also refered to as the idle air control valve. They then claimed they swapped that valve and the problem was solved. So they called me up and said u need to buy a new idle stabalizer valve which costs like 270 bucks. I asked if they were sure that was the problem, and they said positive. So i told them to hold off on replacing it. Picked up the car and changed the valve myself (used). Problem didnt go away. Tried to clean the used valve, problem didnt go away. Tried a third one from my second jetta, which runs like a kitten, the car was fine for a day but then with the rainy weather, the problem came back. So now i'm like wtf? Where do i go from here. Both cars are 95's. I just want the idle to run fine so i can sell the car. I'm selling the thing for $2500 so every penny is important. Anybody who has a solution to this unsolved mystery, please submit the answer. Thanks

Ps. sorry for the length of my story.


Modified by notec at 3:55 PM 5-29-2004
 

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Re: (surferfletch)

You might also want to check...
Intake tube for cracks and PCV valve (circle thingy near intake tube) this piece should be changed if you havn't done so already. As well make sure to check the tube that runs from the PCV down to the bottom of the block, this is prone to cracking. Hope this helps.


Modified by FrankieGTI at 1:13 AM 5-30-2004
 
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