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How much power can the stock crankshaft can hold I’ve been thinking about turbocharging my 2010 golf it has a stage 2 Integrated engineering kit on it already ive been looking at upgrade rods and pistons but I know the other weak point is the crankshaft and I was wondering if the tfsi crank is the same and if I could pull it off if the stock crank is weak I’m trying to get around 400hp at the wheels reliably
From what I have read the TFSI crank needs machining to fit the VW iron block. Additionally, some say the clutch and flywheel would be different due to the bolt pattern of the flywheel being different too. Of the builds I've found not many are touching the cranks from TFSI motors.

I've seen some chatter about the 150hp cranks being forged vs 170hp ones but I haven't seen any sources specifically.

As far as I can tell it's rods that are the limit but from people I've talked to as well, turbo sizing has a role in bottom end longevity and how the boost comes on and at what RPM. Sorry I don't have links to contribute to my claims.

400whp might be tough without doing some internal work. Only one way to find out!

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'17 Golf R, '90 Jetta, '90 Golf
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How much power can the stock crankshaft can hold I’ve been thinking about turbocharging my 2010 golf it has a stage 2 Integrated engineering kit on it already ive been looking at upgrade rods and pistons but I know the other weak point is the crankshaft and I was wondering if the tfsi crank is the same and if I could pull it off if the stock crank is weak I’m trying to get around 400hp at the wheels reliably
weak point is the rods. turbo'd you will max out around ~325-350 ft/lb torque. Yes, it could be more, or less. Thats with abou ~350-400whp.

if you're looking for around 400whp then you don't really need to open the engine.

my plan: use and abuse the stock engine and buy a spare to build on the side. the 07ks in my local market are about $100-250 CDN, practically free. My plan is to do rods/pistons and maybe head studs and be done (y) should be good for like 500hp+ after that though I'd suspect my trans or axles will be the weak spot haha
 

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Alright thanks y’all I’m gonna get a engine and build it up I can get one for 300-500 dollars and I’ll get the Integrated engineering Rods and pistons and apr head studs I’ll keep updates on the build
 

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How much power can the stock crankshaft can hold I’ve been thinking about turbocharging my 2010 golf it has a stage 2 Integrated engineering kit on it already ive been looking at upgrade rods and pistons but I know the other weak point is the crankshaft and I was wondering if the tfsi crank is the same and if I could pull it off if the stock crank is weak I’m trying to get around 400hp at the wheels reliably
Early 2.5 07k cranks are forged.
 

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Folks,

Turbo project is done. Got the UM tune done this past week. All I can say is that at 10psi is screams.

Holds great AFR's and no hiccups. The initial flash had it fire up and smooth out within seconds which was surprising.

Fred doesn't recommend running beyond 10psi but we had to drop down a spring size or two to achieve it but the car pulls really hard.

The clutch doesn't like 3rd gear right now.

As for incidentals, there's a lot of little things I certainly learned along the way, and if I knew probably would have saved me some more money.

Happy to answer questions but my all in cost with truck and trailer rental was just over $5,000 cad. Clutch and supporting power mods extra.

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Nice I bet it rips. It wouldn't surprise me if 10psi from a reasonably sized turbo got you close to 300hp on this engine. When you do the clutch and flywheel and forget to throw in a friction washer between the flywheel and crank, I hear the 6 bolt vw pattern flywheels start to have issues with the crank connection not too far over 300 hp.
 

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Thank you! It does rip!

Question: I don't see anything like you described included in any kits available. Stupid me doesn't know why I'd need that besides perhaps limiting the flywheel bolts from backing out? Do you not loctite them?

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2008 Volkwagen Rabbit 2.5L 2 door hatchback
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Without IE's intake manifold ($800), and the extra UM SRI tune ($200), it is roughly $3500 depending on availability and/or fabrication of miscellaneous piping, fittings, hoses.

With IE's intake manifold, and UM's SRI tune, it is roughly $4500 dependent on the same.

Obviously, if you choose a higher-end turbocharger the price can go a lot higher, these estimates are for a budget build using CXracing's GT3582.

Unless you have $3500 to $4500 on-hand, I would suggest collecting all of the hardware over time and purchase the software a few days before you want to start the install, that will give you 4-5 days to send the ECU for flashing and return while installing your kit. In the meantime of collecting parts for your kit, start collecting How-To's from YouTube, VWVortex, and online, etc.; so that you can learn to do the installation yourself and save a ton a money. Keep in mind that you will need proper tools, 2+ ton jack stands, and jack for self- installation. Collecting parts over time will allow you catch deals on parts and tools, like around Black Friday through Christmas when companies are making deals for their 4th Quarter end-of-year sales numbers. Utilize Ebay and Amazon for deals, just do your research to make sure they are reliable/quality parts.

@JaxPlanet - Since you already have IE's MK5/MK6 Automatic Tune and PowerLink dongle, you can adjust the estimate by -$450, but you will need IE's 7100rpm shifting file for maximum results.
So you didn't add any forged internals? Which (from my understanding by what others have done) means you'll only be able to run a MAX of 12psi without causing catastrophic engine failure. Ive done a bit of pricing myself because my goal is 550whp, forged internals alone for the build I have in mind, which doesn't include camshafts or crankshaft, 4800 to 5200, the turbo I want to use is a Borge Warner gt3582r twin scroll turbo and a cts twin turbo intercooler so I can run just a bit colder for more boost, all in all the entire set up is around 10,000 but I would be able to crank the boost up to 30+ psi.... granted I dont blow a hole in the block first lololol.... if that happens I'll try to find the aluminum 5 cylinder block from a TTRS and build from there........ive done all my own work on my vw and what I don't know or haven't done, I research, just like the most of you, how else are you supposed to learn right? Pretty much the reason why YouTube came about was for informational videos.....
 

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So you didn't add any forged internals? Which (from my understanding by what others have done) means you'll only be able to run a MAX of 12psi without causing catastrophic engine failure. Ive done a bit of pricing myself because my goal is 550whp, forged internals alone for the build I have in mind, which doesn't include camshafts or crankshaft, 4800 to 5200, the turbo I want to use is a Borge Warner gt3582r twin scroll turbo and a cts twin turbo intercooler so I can run just a bit colder for more boost, all in all the entire set up is around 10,000 but I would be able to crank the boost up to 30+ psi.... granted I dont blow a hole in the block first lololol.... if that happens I'll try to find the aluminum 5 cylinder block from a TTRS and build from there........ive done all my own work on my vw and what I don't know or haven't done, I research, just like the most of you, how else are you supposed to learn right? Pretty much the reason why YouTube came about was for informational videos.....
It's not a 'max of 12psi' of boost. The limiting factor is torque which the stock bottom end can hold about ~320-350lb/ft of tq. Boost on one setup could be completely different than another. It also depends on how the tune is setup, does it bring boost in gradually or ****in max out the boost right away like a sledgehammer to the rods lol.

Yes, forged internals are the way to go for anything more than that.

Take whatever budget you have and double it. Don't forget about all the tiny pieces that add up. Hoses, clamps, connectors. Going AN lines? Even more expensive. Also I recommend going standalone if you have those power goals in mind. The stock ECU is ****ty for turboing these engines.

I have a 2.5T swapped mk2 and I've spent about ~$15,000 USD so far.
 

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Does everything bolt up the same on a mk6? And does the 034 Motorsport tune work with a mk6?
Yes and no.

Bolt up, yes. You likely have a CBTA engine which doesn't have the same auxiliary items (mine doesn't have secondary air injection etc) but everything should bolt up fine.

Tune, your only off the shelf option is UM and it's $1000usd for the tune. 034's tune is for a maf engine, your mk6 is MAP.

It's more expensive to tune.

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Yes and no.

Bolt up, yes. You likely have a CBTA engine which doesn't have the same auxiliary items (mine doesn't have secondary air injection etc) but everything should bolt up fine.

Tune, your only off the shelf option is UM and it's $1000usd for the tune. 034's tune is for a maf engine, your mk6 is MAP.

It's more expensive to tune.

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Awesome thank you! I just checked it out. I filtered for a Mk6 2.5 on their website. Does their pro-maf and software replace and account for the map in my car?
 

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No, but it's that basically tune. You'll need to go to one of their dealers to have your car flashed. You need a mk6 Golf R map sensor and Bosch 550cc injectors and injector adapters from USRT. There is very little info on what adapters you need from all the research I did.

Aside from the turbo hardware and all needed you'll need new plugs and gap them 0.028 from the OEM gap.

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It's not a 'max of 12psi' of boost. The limiting factor is torque which the stock bottom end can hold about ~320-350lb/ft of tq. Boost on one setup could be completely different than another. It also depends on how the tune is setup, does it bring boost in gradually or ****in max out the boost right away like a sledgehammer to the rods lol.

Yes, forged internals are the way to go for anything more than that.

Take whatever budget you have and double it. Don't forget about all the tiny pieces that add up. Hoses, clamps, connectors. Going AN lines? Even more expensive. Also I recommend going standalone if you have those power goals in mind. The stock ECU is ****ty for turboing these engines.

I have a 2.5T swapped mk2 and I've spent about ~$15,000 USD so far.
 
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