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2000 1.8T ATW TIP soft limp mode - no CEL

6K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  tdogg74  
#1 ·
Instead of necroing the old thread [2000 B5 1.8T hits a wall at 5500RPM, no codes i will go ahead and start fresh with the current status, hopefully some one has an idea of a new trick to try.


Car Details:

Year: 2000
Model: Passat GLS Wagon
Trans: Tiptronic
Engine: 1.8T ATW
Mileage: 140XXX



Problem:
Soft limp mode, no CEL.

Deails:
So, after replacing the cracked trans pan, refilling, etc etc i finally got the passat back on the road. I still have the high rpm power cut as mentioned in the prior thread, but i have a lot more details this time around. I have acquired a vcds setup (and am looking into me7 logger for faster logging) and installed a Prosport boost gauge. I have a 5 wire wideband and matching gauge, but im still sorting out the install.
First thing in the morning, car starts fine, idles fine. spools to roughly 8/9psi without problems.
Indeterminate amount of time later (usually about 1/2 to work, about 3 miles, ~10 minutes) car shows 0 changes, no cel, no noise, no nothing. BUT the boost gauge caps out @ 4psi
car still idles, revs, WOTs, partial throttles fine, it is just stuck @ 4psi.

The above is also true on the stage 1 93 octane tune ECU i have (2 ecus 1 stock 1 with a 93 octane 16psi tune). Difference between the two is that the tuned ecu will limps at 6psi instead of 4 (presumably the more agressive boost request cause it to limp a little quicker)

I have 1 code (Secondary air flow too low - something along those lines, i do not have the read out in front of me) constantly, i believe this is because the hose running from the pipe to the stock airbox is exposed to atmo.


I DO NOT have the stock airbox, i am running a cone filter. This was done prior to my owning the car, and i haven't acquired a stock airbox.

I have 3 N75 valves, the stock C valve. a 45K mile c valve out of some other 1.8t and a E value striaght from ECS, with about 1400 miles on it.


Diagnostic test:

Entire system pressure tested from the TIP inlet, and directly @ the throttle body. 1 small hole found and sealed in the tip (this is getting replaced my a silicone TIP) @ 10psi there were 4 immediatly apparently leaks.

Manifold to FPR
Manifold to N249 (somewhere under the intake)
N249 to DV
Compressor outlet to Pancake pipe


FPR was replace, line to the n249 was pulled, mani hooked up directly to the DV.

Dv replaced with a Forge Splitter


System retest @ 10 psi, no leaks (oil gurgled which im led to believe is normal)
System retested @ 20psi, no leaks
System retested @ 30psi, no leaks


N75 unhooked - 4psi constant

WG line pulled, constant spool to 15psi

E revision N75 + 16psi tune - spools a little quicker, doesn't spike past 17
C revision N75 + 16psi tune - spools a little quicker, doesn't spike past 20
C revision N75 + Stock ecu - spools slower, spikes to just under 10psi


N75 C revision + 16PSI ECU - Maf (unhooked) - no soft limp, high RPM loss of boost similiar to the issue from the old thread, can confirm pressure drops to 0psi or 2/3 in hg. In this configuration the car feel good up to about 3.5K then starts having issues. if i keep it out of boost i can get it much higher but as soon as the boost comes on it flatlines.


The MAF was replaced with a reman through my dad (J.K. Auto parts) @ 131K
Plugs just replaced, gapped to .028. cylinder 1 looked like it was a touch lean (white tip) and sylinders #1-3 had oil on the threads, slight dab of oil on all coil packs. I don't know if this is recent or left over on the threads from when the VCG WAS leaking, but i am replacing it AGAIN due to me not doing the CCT gasket while i was in there.



tl;dr -
I am at my wits end with these two issues, i have 0 CELs, only the one sai code, and the car doesnt boost properly. With the maf unhooked it runs find under 4k but has a slight vibe like its misfiring if i do a 5th gear WOT pull.

No misfires in any logs (looking at logging with me7 for a higher frequency log) MAF reads ~130g/s WOT in @ readline in soft limp with the 16psi tune [6psi actual].



Please let me know if you want to see any logs, im not sure what is helpful so i will refrain from throwing tons of logs all over the place.


Course of Action:

Replace TIP with Silicone (this weekend)
Replace valve cover gasket and CCT gasket (half moon blew out. the VCG was done right before all these issues started happening ~10K ago)
Acquire new MAF (looking at the local pick a part, but might see a dealer for a OEM spec maf)
Kill it with fire.


I really have no clue whats going on here, so any ideas or suggestions would be awesome.
 
#2 ·
i had a problem like you. i had no cel, i couldnt figure out what was going on and no VCDs could tell me whats going on. i would hit peak boost and pull until i hit about 5500 to redline, somewhere in that range. i cleaned my MAF one day and it stopped going into limp mode. after about a week it would go back into limp mode until i cleaned the MAF again. i hope this helps you out.
 
#3 ·
I went out to clean my maf two days ago, and when i pulled the connector, the interior pink retainer crumbled, and seeing as the outer clip broke a while ago the entire thing doesnt stay connected. It now doesnt read any maf signal. So i spent a couple hours in a junk yard hunting down a 5 wire harness to cut, and will be splicing that in soon. Hopefully this rids me of my high rpm issues!
 
#4 ·
Lack of MAF signal will cause a check engine light. OTOH, if your MAF is bad and it's reading low, it will cause the problems you mention AND not cause a CEL.
My guess is that you have a problem with the turbo. Not mechanical, since you say it's making good boost when it's cold, but the control. I didn't read all words in your post, just between the lines. Maybe you swapped already the DV and N75, these would be the first things to check.
 
#5 ·
Updates to this problem:

I have swapped in MKV 2.0TSI coils, gap unchanged. Car starts better and idle was smoother, but the high RPM cut out still existed.

I was able to get around to putting the silicone TIP in this weekend. In addition to that i was also able to reinstall the Forge Splitter the correct way, stopping the compressor surge issue i was having.

After sorting that out i took it on a test drive with the MAF hooked up, and blew out my DV. After reseating that and torquing the **** out of the clamp i took it back out, and it went into soft limp. With the MAF unhooked it pulls to 7K, holding 15psi til about 5750rpm, and tapering off to ~11psi by redline.

So i will be acquiring a new MAF from VW, and reworking the PCV system to help keep the MAF clean in the future.




TL;DR if you have having high RPM cutouts and the usual suspects dont solve it, get a silicone Inlet pipe.