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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys, I have an 02 1.8T Jetta that's having an intermittent issue. Occasionally the engine will cut out. No warning lights on the dash but the power drops off and the Rpms drop instantly. It seems to come back fairly quickly and it's hard to tell if it's completely shutting off or just dropping to idle. The only thing that seems to be consistent is it usually happens after going around a hard corner like on back roads. I drove the back way to the gym tonight and it cut out 5 or 6 times but drove home the highway and it ran like a champ. Had over 1/4 tank of gas. Was thinking maybe something related to the gas tank/fuel pump/fuel filter possibly? Let me know if anyone has any suggestions as to where to start.

Thanks!
 

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2001 Golf GTI
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Probably a bad fuel pump. Mine used to cut out randomly while cruising. Make sure to transplant your existing fuel sender to the new one if you replace it (little circuit board on the fuel pump housing).

Also if you buy one from amazon/china make sure you check the solder job at the connector. I fried my instrument cluster because of a small solder short. Worked fine after fixing the short and upgrading my cluster.
White Bicycle part Electrical wiring Cable Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply! I went ahead and removed the fuel pump to inspect. Wasn't too dirty on the pickup screen and tried to recrate the fault but couldn't. I reinstalled it and drove it around for some test runs and it ran great. Drove it to the gym tonight and same thing happened. I did notice this time that it's not so much the engine's cutting out, more like it's losing signal from the gas pedal and it picks up after a few seconds. Another thing I noted was that almost every time it happened so far my heater blower was on. I really thought I nailed it because I was turning the heater on and off and it caused the issue instantly but when I drove home with the heat off it did it a few more times. I'm starting to worry it may be something electrical but really don't know where to start looking still. Maybe throttle position sensor?
 

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Maybe your engine speed/crankshaft position sensor is going bad? I believe the part number is 06A906433L, but don't quote me on that. It's located behind the oil filter.

The throttle position sensor will throw a code if it's bad since it has two potentiometer tracks and is able to cross itself.
 

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Sounds like a fuel pump. Very similar to what happened to me.

I installed an aftermarket high flow fuel pump and they are known for under 1/4 tank to start cutting out. Pump doesn't like it. Solution? Never go under 1/4 tank.

Same symptoms as your situation so I think your fuel pump might be on the way out
 

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Sounds like a fuel pump. I would also replace the fuel filter. Have you scanned for codes to see if there is something coming up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the replies! I just took it down to advance auto to get the codes read and he told me there were none. Not sure if he did it right but that's what he said. Car drove like a champ. I did recently replace the fuel filter, so I guess I may have to order a new pump and see if that does it. For now, all I can do is drive it until it breaks down I suppose.
 

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Thanks for all the replies! I just took it down to advance auto to get the codes read and he told me there were none. Not sure if he did it right but that's what he said. Car drove like a champ. I did recently replace the fuel filter, so I guess I may have to order a new pump and see if that does it. For now, all I can do is drive it until it breaks down I suppose.
if you plan doing your own maintenance, get a vcds cable instead of scanning it with the generic obd readers that advanced auto uses. $10 KKL cable (with FTDI serial chip) from eBay +$100 vcds lite license (and a laptop).

Vcds will show you which codes popped up intermittently, which don't get reported to the generic obd reader.

You can also use it to log data during one of your drives to see if certain sensors are going bad (for example, if rpms on crankshaft position sensor go from 3000 immediately to 0, or the maf/map sensor data looks funny). You don't need VCDS to do this, you can use Visual ME7logger with the KKL cable instead if you want to avoid the $100 license.
 
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